200m, 6 pitches.
Approach 10 minutes:
From the quarry parking (col de la Colombière), walk up the protection dyke on the right and follow to the end, direction SW. Then take horizontal path that passes beneath the cliff face. Find the slab with grassy sections situated after an arch-like cliff. A blue plate with the indication “Les Gaguistes” indicates the start of the climb.
The climb:
The first two pitches are shared with the neighbouring route “Le Lord Anglais”. The two routes separate 20m into the third pitch. “Les Gaguistes” branches off to the left.
P1: 4b - Easy slab
P2: 5c - Short pitch with one difficult step with big scales to grip on
P3: 4c - Long 50m pitch
P4: 5a - Slab
P5: 5b - Sustained 5b pitch
P6: 6a - One slab step in 6a (well protected) followed by an athletic chimney in 5b
Descent:
Abseil down.
Notes :
The belays have been doubled.
12 quickdraws.
2x 50m ropes.
From the quarry parking (col de la Colombière), walk up the protection dyke on the right and follow to the end, direction SW. Then take horizontal path that passes beneath the cliff face. Find the slab with grassy sections situated after an arch-like cliff. A blue plate with the indication “Les Gaguistes” indicates the start of the climb.
The climb:
The first two pitches are shared with the neighbouring route “Le Lord Anglais”. The two routes separate 20m into the third pitch. “Les Gaguistes” branches off to the left.
P1: 4b - Easy slab
P2: 5c - Short pitch with one difficult step with big scales to grip on
P3: 4c - Long 50m pitch
P4: 5a - Slab
P5: 5b - Sustained 5b pitch
P6: 6a - One slab step in 6a (well protected) followed by an athletic chimney in 5b
Descent:
Abseil down.
Notes :
The belays have been doubled.
12 quickdraws.
2x 50m ropes.
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Route of Interest
Que la fete commence enfin
Grade: 6a ***
(Les Tines)