305m, 7 pitches. P1: 40m (only 20m if there is an avalanche cone). Not very steep. Bolt belay on left.
P2: 50m. 80 degree start then easy onto snow. Bolt belay on right above Goulotte Martinez.
P3: 55m. Snow then 75 degree ice. Ignore bolt belay just left of centre at 25m. Keep going to the bolt belay on the left.
P4: 55m. 70 degree then 80 degrees for 5m (crux) just past rock on left with an ice pillar. Bolt belay on the big rock wall in the middle of the ice flow. There are inferior options to divide the pitch in two: a bolt belay on the right, a screw and sling round ice pillar on the left or ice screw belay on a good snow ledge lower on the left.
P5: 30m. Up left (more obvious) or right. 70 degrees to start then 60 degrees. Bolt belay on right.
P6: 20m. 60 degrees to bolt belay on left.
P7: 55m. Up snow then a beautiful ice half cone. 70 degrees then bolt belay on left.
Abseil down the route, going straight from the P6 to P4 belay station.


Soem debate about the grade The listed grade is French Ice 4 this does not necessarily equate to WI4.

WI3 - generally sustained in the 60-70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres (Cascade Waterfall, Banff; This House of Sky, Ghost River)

WI4 - near-vertical steps of up to 10 metres, generally sustained climbing requiring placing protection screws from strenuous stances (Professor's Falls, Banff; Weeping Wall Left, Icefields Parkway, Banff; Silk Tassle, Yoho; Moonlight & Snowline, Kananskis)

Feedback Always Hide βeta

51 users have logged this