UKC

Recently, this alternative route has been used by the majority of guided groups as it avoids the dangerous section of the normal route between the Whymper refuge and El Castillo (where ice melt over the last few years has increased the rockfall hazard).

The alternative route is slightly longer, but avoids the dangerous section. Head north from the Carrel refuge, then ascend the ridge eastwards to El Castillo. Here you can join the normal route which proceeds up the glacier to the first summit (Ventimilla), and then crosses the saddle to the high summit (Whymper).

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