UKC

5363m. From a camp on the morraine beyond Lago Tararhua at approx 4600m, head rightwards (SE) up a steep rocky gully with a small waterfall between two sections of exposed glaciated slab. eventually crossing and recrossing the (frozen) stream (early in the morning) reach a point where access to the glacier looks feasible on the left as you are ascending (suggest you recce this in the daytime before and cairn it well). Walk up easy snow slopes, gradually steepening, watching out for crevasses to join the ridge to the North of Pt 5363. head along or just below the ridge, being aware of cornices to a final steepening. Descend via outward route. 6 hrs round trip from high camp.

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Route of Interest
Southwest Ridge

Grade: PD ***
(Pisco)

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