Face climbing up large black wall opposite the Lost Pillar. Bolted with spaced glue-in carrots - you will need at least 11 bolt plates. Total shade until very late in the day.
From Dalpura Head, locate 2 x Ringbolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!). It's 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option), or you can do 2 x 50m abseils by swinging left (looking in) and re-belaying at an interim set of rap anchors (at almost the same height as the summit of the Pillar). Rap straight down the notch between the pillar and the Main Wall and scramble up the gully to the start of the route.
20m (M1) Ring-bolt aid ladder from notch between Lost Pillar and main wall and up to ledge. Scramble carefully right along ledge to DBB.
15m (16) Delicate moves on a rising traverse right past four BR to triple bolt belay. Good warm up for next pitch.
25m (18) Great pitch through some scary bits. Dangerous runout to the 1st and 2nd BR. 6 BRs in total and a #3 camalot could be helpful to calm the nerves. Finish by picking your way through 1 foot shale ledge to bushes and DBB.
28m (19) Great exposure and positions up the vertical wall on many good and not-so good holds. Belay at initial rap point. 11 BRs.
From Dalpura Head, locate 2 x Ringbolts on top of cliff above the Lost Pillar (peer over edge to locate this!). It's 120m abseil straight down the wall (joining ropes is an option), or you can do 2 x 50m abseils by swinging left (looking in) and re-belaying at an interim set of rap anchors (at almost the same height as the summit of the Pillar). Rap straight down the notch between the pillar and the Main Wall and scramble up the gully to the start of the route.
20m (M1) Ring-bolt aid ladder from notch between Lost Pillar and main wall and up to ledge. Scramble carefully right along ledge to DBB.
15m (16) Delicate moves on a rising traverse right past four BR to triple bolt belay. Good warm up for next pitch.
25m (18) Great pitch through some scary bits. Dangerous runout to the 1st and 2nd BR. 6 BRs in total and a #3 camalot could be helpful to calm the nerves. Finish by picking your way through 1 foot shale ledge to bushes and DBB.
28m (19) Great exposure and positions up the vertical wall on many good and not-so good holds. Belay at initial rap point. 11 BRs.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
1 users have logged this
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Hot Flyer (First Lower Off)
Grade: 19 ***
(Shipley Upper)