74m, 4 pitches. All time classic.
This combination is best understood as two individual routes stacked on each other to form one double classic. 60m abseil from top or else descend via Expectancy abseil.

P. Kenny, R. Ohrtmann, F Winder 1953

Ticklists

Ireland 3 Star VS, Ireland 3 Star Multipitches

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Gugodi 14 Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Sep AltLd
Hidden 1 Sep AltLd
mic1024 25 Aug 2nd rpt Ran first 2 pitches together and went right at the flake on Scimitar.
with Athanase
Ran first 2 pitches together and went right at the flake on Scimitar.
with Athanase
alex97 13 Jul AltLd O/S 1st and 2nd pitch as one and also led the last pitch. Best one in my eyes... Such an epic feel before toppin out!!! Yeooo
1st and 2nd pitch as one and also led the last pitch. Best one in my eyes... Such an epic feel before toppin out!!! Yeooo
GlennWatson 13 Jul AltLd
with Malcolm O'Beirn
with Malcolm O'Beirn
MichealMurphy 13 Jul AltLd O/S Pitch 3. Mega coming up the last pitch.
Pitch 3. Mega coming up the last pitch.
niallery 7 Jul AltLd O/S Pitches 3&4
with Tman
Pitches 3&4
with Tman
Hidden 29 Jun Lead O/S
scottw 26 May Lead O/S
mrphilipoldham 18 May AltLd O/S Superb! Interesting climbing and good gear throughout. Led pitch two and four, the former having an unlikely (but excellent) move at the grade and the latter having stunning exposure as you swing right on to the slab.. which thankfully is shorter and easier than it looks from below!
with Niall O’Donnell
Superb! Interesting climbing and good gear throughout. Led pitch two and four, the former having an unlikely (but excellent) move at the grade and the latter having stunning exposure as you swing right on to the slab.. which thankfully is shorter and easier than it looks from below!
with Niall O’Donnell
niallod91 18 May AltLd
Éanna Moloney Lawless 18 Apr AltLd rpt
James Mulhall 14 Apr Lead O/S Great route but cooooolllllllllllllld
with Adele Hegoburu
Great route but cooooolllllllllllllld
with Adele Hegoburu
adele.h 14 Apr 2nd O/S
tim91 27 Mar Lead O/S Led all pitches. Amazing third pitch!
with Ryan Woods
Led all pitches. Amazing third pitch!
with Ryan Woods
Eric Walshe 28 Feb AltLd rpt Adam did first two, I did the last.
with Ben, Adam Timmons
Adam did first two, I did the last.
with Ben, Adam Timmons
Adam Timmons 28 Feb AltLd
Eric Walshe 27 Feb AltLd rpt eanna linked first two and I did the last, 1.31
with Eanna
eanna linked first two and I did the last, 1.31
with Eanna
adoran 3 Feb AltLd O/S
Seán Fortune 3 Feb AltLd O/S 2nd & 3rd pitches. Very surprisingly dry bar the first pitch, fantastic views with all the snow around
with adoran
2nd & 3rd pitches. Very surprisingly dry bar the first pitch, fantastic views with all the snow around
with adoran
Artem Babichenko 18 Nov, 2018 AltLd rpt P2
P2
Hidden 18 Nov, 2018 AltLd
doug_l 18 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 and 3 (the easier ones), Colm led pitches 2 and 4.
with Colm
Led pitches 1 and 3 (the easier ones), Colm led pitches 2 and 4.
with Colm
RKernan 23 Sep, 2018 AltLd Led P1 and 2 in one go. Lisa led P3 and got a bit confused by the route description - next time we'll buy a guidebook and not just use the wiki! Ended up in the quartzy gully left of the route proper.
Led P1 and 2 in one go. Lisa led P3 and got a bit confused by the route description - next time we'll buy a guidebook and not just use the wiki! Ended up in the quartzy gully left of the route proper.
Hidden 1 Sep, 2018 2nd
benkelsey 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Possibly the best Vs I've ever done. After getting ferry all night, swanning around in the sun. Winning. 60m ab on stretch
with fshbf
Possibly the best Vs I've ever done. After getting ferry all night, swanning around in the sun. Winning. 60m ab on stretch
with fshbf
DaveWhite13 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Tad run out in sections. But awesome situation. Start of 3rd pitch is hilarious
with The Wife
Tad run out in sections. But awesome situation. Start of 3rd pitch is hilarious
with The Wife
fearghal 6 Aug, 2018 2nd
franwhelan 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S handy pegs on the ledge before final pitch
handy pegs on the ledge before final pitch
Ned Flood 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Adam Timmons 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Eric Walshe 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt Night climbed, arrived at about 12:30am, Eanna led the first pitch, Adam the second and I led the last.
with Adam Timmons, Eanna
Night climbed, arrived at about 12:30am, Eanna led the first pitch, Adam the second and I led the last.
with Adam Timmons, Eanna
Paul Collins 29 May, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Eanna
with Eanna
Eric Walshe 29 May, 2018 Lead O/S Led all the pitches, Fionnuala seconded
Led all the pitches, Fionnuala seconded
Fionnuala 29 May, 2018 2nd
Keith Johns 19 May, 2018 Lead rpt Led all pitches... Ian and Joe seconding
Led all pitches... Ian and Joe seconding
Hidden 19 May, 2018 2nd β
Hidden 19 May, 2018 Lead
Keith Johns 25 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S Lead pitch 2 & 4. Classic Glendalough route!
Lead pitch 2 & 4. Classic Glendalough route!
davkeo 3 Nov, 2017 AltLd rpt Night ascent. P2&4. Good fun & felt quite alpine.
Night ascent. P2&4. Good fun & felt quite alpine.
Hidden 3 Nov, 2017 AltLd rpt
Hidden 25 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Patrickmcredmond 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Martin, Jimi
with Martin, Jimi
Artem Babichenko ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S P1, p3
P1, p3
Cillian 28 May, 2017 Lead rpt Led all 4 pitches -good day
Led all 4 pitches -good day
Barrie Schofield II 19 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
janegallwey 14 May, 2017 Lead
Davidmcneill125 7 May, 2017 Lead β
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd rpt
Piglet69 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with kdo
with kdo
niallsash 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with kdo
with kdo
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd rpt
AngelaC 2 Aug, 2016 AltLd
RichardMcN 2 Aug, 2016 2nd
with AngelaC
with AngelaC
Hidden 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Marti999 16 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
PebbleWrestler 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Mega Classic! Done in three superb pitches
with Maeve
Mega Classic! Done in three superb pitches
with Maeve
s kennedy 17 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S P1 + P3 really good climbing
with ben
P1 + P3 really good climbing
with ben
Cillian 28 May, 2016 AltLd rpt
ardzeiem 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2016 -
adagiono1 19 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
with Jason
with Jason
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 Lead O/S
George Ponsonby ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
theo.mooney 3 Feb, 2015 -
Naomi VR ??, 2015 Lead got terribly lost the first time. awesome climb when I actually made it up the right line
got terribly lost the first time. awesome climb when I actually made it up the right line
Hugh Irving ??, 2015 AltLd
LouMullen 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Mark
with Mark
Leman Lemanski ?Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S One of the best VS mp routes in the country.
with Roger
One of the best VS mp routes in the country.
with Roger
Hidden 28 May, 2014 2nd
Bruise Apprentice 27 May, 2014 Lead O/S Simply superb. Led all 4 pitches. The crux step onto the hanging slab is difficult to protect from the corner above the 'nightmare' ledge i.e. just before the crux move. With 60m ropes you can just about make the abseil descent down Expectancy Slab with rope stretch.
Simply superb. Led all 4 pitches. The crux step onto the hanging slab is difficult to protect from the corner above the 'nightmare' ledge i.e. just before the crux move. With 60m ropes you can just about make the abseil descent down Expectancy Slab with rope stretch.
ChambersPP 20 Apr, 2014 Lead β
Hidden 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd rpt
davkeo 17 Apr, 2014 AltLd rpt P2. Combined with Speirbhean top pitch.
P2. Combined with Speirbhean top pitch.
KKilroy 12 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Damo
with Damo
niallsash ??, 2014 2nd
Piglet69 ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Nov, 2013 AltLd dnf
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd rpt
davkeo 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P1&3.
Lead P1&3.
Hidden 8 Jun, 2013 AltLd
markflanagan 4 Jun, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 4 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
karlc 27 Apr, 2013 AltLd
Paul Collins 6 Apr, 2013 AltLd rpt Lead pitches 1 & 2 together and pitch 4, Mark took pitch 3
Lead pitches 1 & 2 together and pitch 4, Mark took pitch 3
przemart ??, 2013 Lead
przemart ??, 2013 Lead
Hidden 29 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Paul Collins 29 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Climbed in two long pitches, rope drag wasn't great at the top, brilliant route though!
Climbed in two long pitches, rope drag wasn't great at the top, brilliant route though!
columk1 8 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2 and pitch 4, large boulder at top for anchor, abseil down off Expectancy Slab to left using chains.
with Frank Reilly
Lead pitch 2 and pitch 4, large boulder at top for anchor, abseil down off Expectancy Slab to left using chains.
with Frank Reilly
Ronan O Keeffe 26 Aug, 2012 2nd dog All rosy until nightmare ledge and crux. Fell twice and wormed my way across.
with Peter Britton
All rosy until nightmare ledge and crux. Fell twice and wormed my way across.
with Peter Britton
Hidden 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
mcgovern 26 Jul, 2012 AltLd Led first and last pitch. Outstanding climbing the whole way through
Led first and last pitch. Outstanding climbing the whole way through
Aodhhnait 25 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Terrance
with Terrance
Hidden 25 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 May, 2012 2nd O/S
colenn 1 Apr, 2012 AltLd rpt
with eoin25
with eoin25
Hidden 13 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Nov, 2011 2nd dog
Hidden 20 Sep, 2011 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2011 Lead
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
TommyMcG ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
colenn 4 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
owenclarkin 4 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
with Colm Ennis
with Colm Ennis
Steve Lenartowicz 18 May, 2011 -
Hidden 8 Apr, 2011 2nd
Hidden 5 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
crusheen ?Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
liamo333 ??, 2011 - Superb, one of the best VSs I've done.
Superb, one of the best VSs I've done.
Niall Ewen 12 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
wheelo 12 Oct, 2010 AltLd
with gerry
with gerry
Rob N 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
colenn 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd rpt
with Rob N, Peter Britton
with Rob N, Peter Britton
Kirill 30 May, 2010 AltLd O/S only lead 3rd pitch (4a)
only lead 3rd pitch (4a)
Hidden 30 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
auld al 9 Apr, 2010 AltLd
johnmctighe ?Feb, 2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
idmadden ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead rpt
greg_may_ ??, 2010 -
SeanT ?Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Tom Led pitches 1 & 3, I led 2nd pitch
with Tom Bannon
Tom Led pitches 1 & 3, I led 2nd pitch
with Tom Bannon
Hidden ??, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 19 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
Frank4short 5 Nov, 2006 -
davepc ?Jun, 2006 AltLd
gavinjd ??, 2006 AltLd
Frank4short ??, 2006 -
endless winter ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with frankforshort/Minka
with frankforshort/Minka
EvilPhil 1 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S Fantastic climb
with Trent
Fantastic climb
with Trent
Hidden 21 Sep, 2003 AltLd O/S
Allan Young 1 Aug, 2003 AltLd β
with Kate Hare, Jonas
with Kate Hare, Jonas
Hidden 8 Jul, 2003 Lead
OriginalGeckoboy ?Jun, 2000 AltLd O/S great climbing on this crag... we decided to take up a prospective suitor of Jane's, a man who had allegedly walked with the polar bears... I led the pitch to nightmare ledge which comfortably seats 3 and i led the last pitch... sounds good till you realise it took us a lot longer than anticipated if it were just 2 of us.. we should have been in Lynham's of Laragh for a few beers by 8pm... i had to climb the last pitch in near darkness by feel, awkward and scary but gratifying.. no beer too late off the hill
with Jane Carney
great climbing on this crag... we decided to take up a prospective suitor of Jane's, a man who had allegedly walked with the polar bears... I led the pitch to nightmare ledge which comfortably seats 3 and i led the last pitch... sounds good till you realise it took us a lot longer than anticipated if it were just 2 of us.. we should have been in Lynham's of Laragh for a few beers by 8pm... i had to climb the last pitch in near darkness by feel, awkward and scary but gratifying.. no beer too late off the hill
with Jane Carney
cem 27 May, 2000 AltLd O/S Led p4. Done over 2 days: abseiled off in rain at top of p2 on 27th; completed the next day.
with Ruth Shuter, GrahamD
Led p4. Done over 2 days: abseiled off in rain at top of p2 on 27th; completed the next day.
with Ruth Shuter, GrahamD
Hidden ??, 1990 -
Ken lindsay ??, 1989 AltLd O/S
bijou tram ??, 1985 Solo Scariest Solo ever
Scariest Solo ever
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 18
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set