The thin crack system to the left of 'Optimist's Chimney'. Climb up to the obvious breaks with the crux near the top.

Hugh Simons 31/May Lead RP

Dogged a few weeks ago, went much better today. Wore stiffer shoes which seemed to make a huge difference, I felt fairly relaxed the whole way. Knowing (roughly) the gear helps a lot too.

Brian Pollock 24/May Lead G/U

Went smoothly for the most part this time. Almost dropped it at the thin and reachy top but pulled it together in the end. Definitely harder for the short.

with Joe
Pina 24/May 2nd
with Brain
calumhicks 05/May Lead O/S
Brian Pollock 22/Apr Lead dog

It was all going so well then hesitated too long, got boxed and ultimately took a whipper. Gear is overall good but specific. Take lots of cams, particularly in the small sizes and save 1 or 2 for the top.

with Joe
Ri 14/Sep/16 Lead

Grimly grotty.

with Dougie
D.Russell 14/Sep/16 2nd O/S

dirty as...

with Ri
gurumed 16/Jul/16 TR O/S

In preparation for leading. Got rained off before I could get on the lead.

with Brian
DavidMcK 30/Jul/15 Lead RP

First E4! Nice climbing and excellent gear all the way

Hidden 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S
GraMc 08/Jun/15 2nd rpt
with sinclair, rory
Alastair R 20/May/15 2nd
with Ross C.
Timothy Miller 05/May/15 Lead G/U

really gutted i blew the onsight, foot popped! got it second go fine. Defos easy for E4 though

with sammy D
John McKenna 09/Apr/15 Lead β

First E4, well protected and really enjoyable. It is a bit run out going over the top but your on jugs and good feet by that point, thank god for the plants over the barrel to grab onto though.

Hidden 28/Mar/15 Lead
salix 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Very pleased with this. Unlocked itself as I went.

with Dave, Topher
David Woods 02/Sep/14 2nd

Fell after the crux. Great route

with Topher, Will
Dr Toph 02/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Dave, Will
redjerry 19/Aug/14 Lead
with Stevie Weir
Stevie989 19/Jun/14 2nd β

Big deal for me hardest route I have been on - given beta as I climbed but clean and no falls despite being totally pumped.

Martin McKenna - UKC 13/Oct/13 Lead G/U

After discussing this route with someone else we have both concluded its E4 6a.

Hidden 10/Sep/13 Lead β
mshorter 06/Apr/13 Lead β
Ri ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with mike
GraMc 11/Mar/12 Lead
with rob
GraMc 18/Apr/11 Lead dog

really nice route, took a rest at mid height, but felt surprisingly steady apart from a slip off at the very start

with dave brigham, phil emerson
jimmyrua 16/Apr/11 Lead

rested, bled a bit, had mare...awesome route

with Magnus, David Brigham
Hidden 24/Mar/11 2nd
dj_brigham05 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S
mr_nsglover ?/Mar/11 Lead dog
cobes 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Cassidy 17/Jul/10 Lead rpt


with Richard McGhee
akhughes 20/Apr/10 Lead rpt

Blew the onsight when a hold broke off. came back the next day and lead it. good to do it ground up.

with Greg B
Dr Toph 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Ran out of small cams before the last hard moves, which made it extra piquant. Much better route than it looks from the ground.

with Davide
Sean Bell 26/Oct/09 TR β

Flashed with shouting from Beta meister Neil.Superb moves and a dicey tiptoe at the finish line.Would love to lead it.

with Neil, Scott
CharlieMack 28/Aug/09 TR O/S

Really annoyed i top-roped it, should have manned up and gone for the lead. Some really awesome moves on it! Not sure its quite E4 though.

henwardian 13/Apr/09 AltLd dog

The guidebook description is a sandbagging pile of claptrap for this climb. Without giving too much away: 1) The gear really isn't hard to place. 2) A mention of an easier alternative finish makes no sense to me at all. 3) The hard move it mentions near the top is definitely full brit tech 6A. 4) A pretty strong friend of mine who has adopted the habbit of declaring every single trad lead he has done as being overgraded by at least 1 grade lowered off the crux and was firmly asserting that it was a proper sandbag at the grade of E3 5C. (which made me feel a little better about taking several attempts to get the crux move). We think it's E4 6A :)

andyinglis 12/Oct/07 2nd
Alasdair Fulton 12/Oct/07 Lead O/S
figfour ??/2007 Lead
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