Rockfax Description
A 'king-line' following a series of cracks and grooves up the crest of the west pillar of Segltinden. Sadly on closer inspection there is quite a bit of moss and other vegetation on the route. A committing climb that requires good route finding skills. A normal Lofoten rack.
1) N5-, 50m. From the left side of the pillar follow cracks and flakes to a left-facing groove - spaced gear.
2) N7, 20m. Traverse left into a left-facing groove, then climb straight up to hard moves to access a small grass ledge.
3) N7+, 40m. Face climb the left side of the major groove then move right into it via long stretch. Head up the groove to its end then make a poorly-protected traverse out right to a good ledge.
4) N6, 50m. Climb straight up for a couple of metres then move left to a crack system. Up this (vegetated) to a hanging belay in a left-facing corner below a large roof.
5) N7+, 40m. Head up to the roof and jam though its right side - strenuous. Continue to a stance halfway up the next groove.
6) N6, 30m. Continue up to the end of the groove then make a slimy traverse left - loose. Follow flakes then face climb to a niche - bold and committing.
7) N6+, 20m. Nice cracks lead to a ledge. Continue up mossy rock to a stance below an overhang.
8) N7-, 40m. Pull through the roof then traverse right continuing up a (very) wet chimney. Crawl through a hole then continue to a belay just below the summit plateau. © Rockfax

FA. Lars Martin Solberg, Johanne Broch Hauge 05.06.2014 05/Jun/2014.

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