Rockfax Description
About 600m. 18 pitches up the left-hand edge of the face, bounded by grass slopes to the left. Start right of these and cross the right-hand side of a curving overlap (N5-) then trend left up slabs for four or five pitches (N4) to reach a prominent steep groove. Above this, some huge loose flakes are crossed to reach three left-trending overlaps. Cross the first one and belay under the second, before following it leftwards to a grassy ledge. Head round the right-hand side of a roof and climb flake-cracks up and right to poorly-protected friction moves (N6-) leading to the base of a basalt dyke/gully. From here there are two choices - the lack of fixed gear means abseil descent is not possible.
1) Trend left across slabs to reach a col on the ridge.
2) Follow the dyke for seven more pitches, crossing a roof (N5), and arriving on the north ridge one pitch below the summit. © Rockfax
FA. Ole Klingeman, Eggert Keller 7.1997 15/Jul/1997.
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Grade: n6- ***
(Djupfjord)