90m, 4 pitches. Description
This historic route was the first line up Monkey Face. It begins on the southeast side of the tower. Two ropes mandatory for the rappel!

Pitch 1: 5.6 Scramble up a series of ledges to a ramp up and right to a vertical crack that takes you to the notch formed between the main buttress and Monkey face. Once at the notch turn the corner and climb up the face using traditional pro, bolts, and fixed pins. Belay at the left of two anchors on a long ledge (Bohn's ledge). This can also be reached via the West Face Variation (Direct) to add some fun trad to the day out.

Pitch 2: C0 Move up an overhanging red face on a bolt ladder into the "monkey's mouth." Belay from the unique angle-iron anchors. Note: You don't really need aid gear for this - can just haul on the bolts and use slings / prusiks as leg loops. Some people have been known to do this with zero aid experience.

Pitch 3: 5.7 Move the belay to the east edge of the cave (mouth). Reach out of the cave and move straight up the face for 25 feet on plentiful (4) bolts to a ledge with chains. This classic pitch is short but airy. The opening moves have been called "panic point" due to the noticeable exposure. There's a 5.9 bolted alternative that goes left (monkey off my back).

Pitch 4: 5.5 Ascend the boulder at the belay and move northward. Step across a small trough and head for the a bolted anchor on the east side of the summit at a ledge. No protection on this pitch, but quite exposed - be careful or take a bit of trad gear!

Descent:
Scramble or take a short rappel back to the top of the 3rd pitch (on the monkey's nose). Then it's a ~60m full length rappel to the ground, super airy and fun!

Protection
All anchors are fat bolts or chains.
-Single set of cams #.75-#3 camalot
-nuts optional
- Long slings and 4-5 quickdraws

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
arose 20 Aug 2nd
HannahFrancis 19 Aug 2nd
with Cailean Harker, arose
with Cailean Harker, arose
ricco 19 Aug, 2018 Lead
with Hazel Wilson
with Hazel Wilson
ricco ??, 2018 -
Giles Eperon 15 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Our first 'aid climbing' experience. Accessed p2 from the West Face Variation Direct. Charlie rocked leading the bolt ladder, then I finished leading the well bolted Panic Point and the exposed easier pitch. Woo monkey face, very epic! A great day of varied adventure.
with Joe B, Charlie Eperon
Our first 'aid climbing' experience. Accessed p2 from the West Face Variation Direct. Charlie rocked leading the bolt ladder, then I finished leading the well bolted Panic Point and the exposed easier pitch. Woo monkey face, very epic! A great day of varied adventure.
with Joe B, Charlie Eperon
Charlie Eperon 15 May, 2017 AltLd Led the bolt ladder (poorly!)
Led the bolt ladder (poorly!)
Francescaparratt 28 Apr, 2017 2nd
Francescaparratt 28 Apr, 2017 2nd β
mattking_109 11 Jun, 2013 AltLd A fun and varied route. I led the bolt ladder (my first aiding experience) as well as panic point, and the final pitch. The 60m free hanging abseil was great fun, especially with the side winds.
with Alex Paisley
A fun and varied route. I led the bolt ladder (my first aiding experience) as well as panic point, and the final pitch. The 60m free hanging abseil was great fun, especially with the side winds.
with Alex Paisley
arose ?Jun, 2008 Lead
with Ryan McDonald
with Ryan McDonald
TonyG ?Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S
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