90m, 4 pitches.
Description
This historic route was the first line up Monkey Face. It begins on the southeast side of the tower. Two ropes mandatory for the rappel!
Pitch 1: 5.6 Scramble up a series of ledges to a ramp up and right to a vertical crack that takes you to the notch formed between the main buttress and Monkey face. Once at the notch turn the corner and climb up the face using traditional pro, bolts, and fixed pins. Belay at the left of two anchors on a long ledge (Bohn's ledge). This can also be reached via the West Face Variation (Direct) to add some fun trad to the day out.
Pitch 2: C0 Move up an overhanging red face on a bolt ladder into the "monkey's mouth." Belay from the unique angle-iron anchors. Note: You don't really need aid gear for this - can just haul on the bolts and use slings / prusiks as leg loops. Some people have been known to do this with zero aid experience.
Pitch 3: 5.7 Move the belay to the east edge of the cave (mouth). Reach out of the cave and move straight up the face for 25 feet on plentiful (4) bolts to a ledge with chains. This classic pitch is short but airy. The opening moves have been called "panic point" due to the noticeable exposure. There's a 5.9 bolted alternative that goes left (monkey off my back).
Pitch 4: 5.5 Ascend the boulder at the belay and move northward. Step across a small trough and head for the a bolted anchor on the east side of the summit at a ledge. No protection on this pitch, but quite exposed - be careful or take a bit of trad gear!
Descent:
Scramble or take a short rappel back to the top of the 3rd pitch (on the monkey's nose). Then it's a ~60m full length rappel to the ground, super airy and fun!
Protection
All anchors are fat bolts or chains.
-Single set of cams #.75-#3 camalot
-nuts optional
- Long slings and 4-5 quickdraws
This historic route was the first line up Monkey Face. It begins on the southeast side of the tower. Two ropes mandatory for the rappel!
Pitch 1: 5.6 Scramble up a series of ledges to a ramp up and right to a vertical crack that takes you to the notch formed between the main buttress and Monkey face. Once at the notch turn the corner and climb up the face using traditional pro, bolts, and fixed pins. Belay at the left of two anchors on a long ledge (Bohn's ledge). This can also be reached via the West Face Variation (Direct) to add some fun trad to the day out.
Pitch 2: C0 Move up an overhanging red face on a bolt ladder into the "monkey's mouth." Belay from the unique angle-iron anchors. Note: You don't really need aid gear for this - can just haul on the bolts and use slings / prusiks as leg loops. Some people have been known to do this with zero aid experience.
Pitch 3: 5.7 Move the belay to the east edge of the cave (mouth). Reach out of the cave and move straight up the face for 25 feet on plentiful (4) bolts to a ledge with chains. This classic pitch is short but airy. The opening moves have been called "panic point" due to the noticeable exposure. There's a 5.9 bolted alternative that goes left (monkey off my back).
Pitch 4: 5.5 Ascend the boulder at the belay and move northward. Step across a small trough and head for the a bolted anchor on the east side of the summit at a ledge. No protection on this pitch, but quite exposed - be careful or take a bit of trad gear!
Descent:
Scramble or take a short rappel back to the top of the 3rd pitch (on the monkey's nose). Then it's a ~60m full length rappel to the ground, super airy and fun!
Protection
All anchors are fat bolts or chains.
-Single set of cams #.75-#3 camalot
-nuts optional
- Long slings and 4-5 quickdraws
Feedback
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