60m. The first route to climb the whole of the Great Wall in a single massive pitch. Essentially a link-up with only a little new climbing, it nevertheless gains a superb position at the top of the crag. 60m routes are essential (although you could climb the top section on its own as an alternative p2 of Darkinbad, which would be bold E5 in its own right).
Climb Dislocation Dance / Pulses Unreal to the first belay of Eroica. Climb the crux of Eroica then head straight up into the groove of pitch 2 of Darkinbad. Follow this for 8 metres until it veers left. Place bomber gear (the last for miles), traverse out right along a hanging rail of slopers to gain the suspended arête (between the Darkinbad and Eroica grooves). Move up to a good jug, then press on bolding up the hanging groove (crux) to reach the big sloping ledge near the top of the crag. Finish up the last 5 metres of Darkinbad pitch 2.

Dave Pickford and Max Dutton 06/Sep/2012.

Feedback Always Hide βeta

2 users have logged this