100m, 9 pitches. ESK BUTTRESS - Frustration.
330 feet. Severe.
First ascent 10th September,1944. R. J. Birkett, T.H.

To the left of the
central pillar is a deeply cut chimney. The
climb starts directly below the chimney at a cairn.
(1) 45 feet. Steep rocks are climbed to the foot of the chimney. Belay
low down on the left.
(2) 55 feet. Climb the chimney until it is possible to step left to a good
ledge and belay.
(3) 55 feet. The rock above is climbed starting at the right and working
leftwards until a grass ledge is reached, a few feet higher is a rock
stance and belay.
(4) 30 feet. Up over rock and grass to a juniper bush. Belay in the
corner just to the right.
(5) 20 feet. A step up and to the right on to a rock gangway which leads
back leftwards to a belay at the foot of a steep crack.
(6) 20 feet. Down a rock staircase and to the left for 10 feet, then round
the corner to the left and down again to a grass ledge and belay.
(7) 40 feet. A grassy, heathery ledge leads leftwards to a rock pinnacle
which is dangerously loose. Traverse well below the pinnacle
and then round the corner into a shallow grassy chimney. A few
feet up the chimney is a bilberry ledge and belay.
(8) 25 feet. A rising traverse left leads in 25 feet to a bilberry ledge
with a juniper belay.
(9) 40 feet. Up a crack for a few feet until level with the top of a small
pinnacle on the left, from here traverse right for 10 feet, then
straight up to the top of the crag via a small mantelshelf.

See: http://www.frcc.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Vol14-2.pdf

Jim Birkett 10/Sep/1944


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