Rockfax Description
III, 400m, 4 -5 hours. The most popular route on the face and something of an autumn classic - this is worth the walk up!
Approach - When the Glacier du Tour is well filled in, it should be possible to cross it more or less directly to reach the foot of the route. When heavily crevassed, either follow the Forbes Arête approach to the rocks at Pte. 3238m and then head straight for the route from here (move quickly under the seracs). Alternatively, cross the glacier lower down in the direction of the Col du Passon and then climb to the routes past the Aiguille du Passon. For Escarra Gully and Charlet-Bettembourg Gully keep to the right of the rock ridge on the final section of the approach.
1) Cross the bergschrund and climb 50 degree snow to reach the gully. There is often a short section of easy mixed ground at the foot of the route proper. Above this, 50 degree snow leads to a belay on the right at the foot of a steep icy runnel.
2) Climb the runnel, which (depending on conditions) is at least 80 degrees and can be delicate. Step left at the top to a belay.
3) Follow the couloir for 150m up 50-55 degree snow and ice to reach a col overlooking the Chardonnet's northeast face.
4) Traverse left across the face for 15m and climb the wide 60 degree gully above to reach the summit.
Descent - From the summit, descend the southwest ridge for 20m to reach the top of a wide 40-45 degree snow couloir dropping down on the right. Descend this, ideally on foot but abseiling from spikes if conditions are bad, sticking to the right (when looking down) as far as possible until you reach a saddle. The couloir is perched above a cliff band so take care and keep concentrating all the way down. From the saddle, continue down the vague ridge crest to reach the top of an abseil line down through a cliff band. There are numerous anchors dotted around but the ones marked on the © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
New alpine grade: III 4, (ice crux 80°)

Jean Escarra, Etienne Payot & Emile Borgeat 29/Aug/1929

winter hill1 27/Sep/14 -
Hidden 23/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 22/Aug/14 AltLd
fulton333 22/Aug/14 AltLd

Climbed first half of Manu route onto the fun bit of Escarra

with Caroline, Matt
Nelson Pelson ?/Jul/14 -
Nelson Pelson ?/Jul/14 -
HosteDenis ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
lberry ?/Jul/08 -
David Horwood 03/Sep/07 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 Lead
Mark Stevenson 05/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
with Tania Noakes
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