5 pitches.
Coming up from Icicle canyon traverse the west side of the lake and climb to the top of the saddle on the west side of the peak.
Route Description:
Pitch 1 (5.6) - Begin at the highest point on Prusik Pass. Looking at Prusik Peak you will see a distinct 5.6ish crack that will take you through blocky climbing to the West Ridge. Belay when the ridge levels out or when you hit a flat trail.
Pitch 2 (5.4) - Follow the flat trail around the Northside of the ridge. Climb up 15 ft to the southside of the ridge. The exposure is great here. Stop and belay at a "slingable" block before the 5.7 slab crux.
Pitch 3 (5.7) - Clip the pin and pull the crux. Belay above.
Pitch 4 (5.5) - Can be run into the previous pitch. Easy traverse over an exposed knife-edge, to the bottom of the final pitch wall.
Pitch 4 - (5.7) There are two or three options. The obvious vertical crack/chimney system is a layback crak to a spot of offwidthing, then a hand-jam move (5.7-5.8?) into a chimney. Another option is to take a flake from the mid-way ledge back to the arete - seems like it's probably easier! There are other options including a 5.8 finger crack for the first section, below the ledge.
Make 5 single raps to the northside of Prusik Peak and walk back over Prusik Pass. You can easily recover gear from the base of this climb.
Route Description:
Pitch 1 (5.6) - Begin at the highest point on Prusik Pass. Looking at Prusik Peak you will see a distinct 5.6ish crack that will take you through blocky climbing to the West Ridge. Belay when the ridge levels out or when you hit a flat trail.
Pitch 2 (5.4) - Follow the flat trail around the Northside of the ridge. Climb up 15 ft to the southside of the ridge. The exposure is great here. Stop and belay at a "slingable" block before the 5.7 slab crux.
Pitch 3 (5.7) - Clip the pin and pull the crux. Belay above.
Pitch 4 (5.5) - Can be run into the previous pitch. Easy traverse over an exposed knife-edge, to the bottom of the final pitch wall.
Pitch 4 - (5.7) There are two or three options. The obvious vertical crack/chimney system is a layback crak to a spot of offwidthing, then a hand-jam move (5.7-5.8?) into a chimney. Another option is to take a flake from the mid-way ledge back to the arete - seems like it's probably easier! There are other options including a 5.8 finger crack for the first section, below the ledge.
Make 5 single raps to the northside of Prusik Peak and walk back over Prusik Pass. You can easily recover gear from the base of this climb.
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Route of Interest
Spontaneity Arête
Grade: 5.7 ***
(Washington Pass)