2 pitches.
Description
Wrinkles in Time is one of the best (and most moderate) routes that Dream Canyon has to offer. Granite reminiscent of Yosemite, thoughtfully placed bolts, and cool exposure combine to make this a true classic. The route tackles the nose of the Dream Dome buttress in 2 pitches.
The first, beginning at the low point of the formation, climbs a large flake, a short fingercrack (crux), and a long section of juggy face climbing. After ~100 feet, the leader reaches a comfortable stance with a 2-bolt belay.
The second pitch, shorter and easier at ~50 feet and 5.7, climbs straight up from the belay and bypasses a short overhang on the way to another 2 bolt anchor.
Those with a 60 meter rope can make 2 rappels to the ground from here. Otherwise, top out and descend the gully.
Protection
You'll need a set of small nuts/#1 TCU and a #1 Camalot to protect between bolts on this route. Otherwise, 12 quickdraws will suffice for gear. A 60 meter rope is necessary if you wish to rappel.
Wrinkles in Time is one of the best (and most moderate) routes that Dream Canyon has to offer. Granite reminiscent of Yosemite, thoughtfully placed bolts, and cool exposure combine to make this a true classic. The route tackles the nose of the Dream Dome buttress in 2 pitches.
The first, beginning at the low point of the formation, climbs a large flake, a short fingercrack (crux), and a long section of juggy face climbing. After ~100 feet, the leader reaches a comfortable stance with a 2-bolt belay.
The second pitch, shorter and easier at ~50 feet and 5.7, climbs straight up from the belay and bypasses a short overhang on the way to another 2 bolt anchor.
Those with a 60 meter rope can make 2 rappels to the ground from here. Otherwise, top out and descend the gully.
Protection
You'll need a set of small nuts/#1 TCU and a #1 Camalot to protect between bolts on this route. Otherwise, 12 quickdraws will suffice for gear. A 60 meter rope is necessary if you wish to rappel.
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Route of Interest
Mosquito Burrito
Grade: 5.9 ***
(Mosquito Burrito)