27m.
BE WARNED Rock is extremely loose. With the loose rock removed and a bit of a clean, this could easily be a Diff. Due to the untrustworthy nature of the rock however, and therefore questionable holds and gear, this felt more like a Severe at times. VDiff is probably about right.
On the largest of the two pinnacles - the one with the near-dead tree at the top of it - that drops away to the left of the Main Buttress at the crag.
The route starts in a steppy groove to the left of an easy-angled but filthy slab. Head up towards a crack in the small roof above you, 'the notch'. Rock right and move up onto spikey holds to get your hands above the crack, and then rockover left past the steepening, with a high left foot on a decent hold. You're now on a small upper slab, one more move allows you to reach a rounded topout to gain a large ledge occupied by a bush (you may have to use the vegetation for aid). Sling a few of the bushes main branches and finish behind and to the left of the foliage, by laying off two jugs on the right arete of the otherwise smooth block of rock above.
There's a handy slingable bollard of rock to belay from.
A bit of an alpine scramble escape 8m backwards and left down a steep slope. Maybe worth attaching approach shoes.
On the largest of the two pinnacles - the one with the near-dead tree at the top of it - that drops away to the left of the Main Buttress at the crag.
The route starts in a steppy groove to the left of an easy-angled but filthy slab. Head up towards a crack in the small roof above you, 'the notch'. Rock right and move up onto spikey holds to get your hands above the crack, and then rockover left past the steepening, with a high left foot on a decent hold. You're now on a small upper slab, one more move allows you to reach a rounded topout to gain a large ledge occupied by a bush (you may have to use the vegetation for aid). Sling a few of the bushes main branches and finish behind and to the left of the foliage, by laying off two jugs on the right arete of the otherwise smooth block of rock above.
There's a handy slingable bollard of rock to belay from.
A bit of an alpine scramble escape 8m backwards and left down a steep slope. Maybe worth attaching approach shoes.
Adam Peel 15/Aug/2017.
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