Rockfax Description
This high altitude via ferrata is perfect for those wanting to get up high in a remote environment, whilst enjoying a more modest grade of climbing. Whilst sections of technical climbing are few, this is more than compensated for by the stunning views and situations. The via ferrata can get exceptionally busy in peak season, particularly if the weather is good, so it is worth avoiding at the weekends. The majority of the route unfolds above 3000m and can hold snow for much of the season so it should not be underestimated. Monte Cristallo is also notorious for holding cloud, particularly in the afternoon. For this reason it is worth making an early start. Keep an eye on the time so that you can make the last lift back down if you are not planning on staying at Rifugio Lorenzi. Whilst it is possible to descend all the way on foot the scree under the Son Forca/Staunies gondola is unpleasant, especially in the dark! If you have time it's also worth doing the first 200m or so of via ferrata Ivano Dibona to see the impressive suspension bridge.
Approach - From Cortina take the Tre Croci Pass (SS48 ) signed towards 'Misurina'. After 8km there is a large parking area on the right opposite the Rio Gere/Son Forca chairlift station. The usual approach is via the two stage Rio Gere lift system. First take the Rio Gere/Son Forca chairlift and then the Son Forca/Staunies gondola, which is an experience in itself - be careful getting on and off the lift. From here a 2 minute walk to the southeast takes you to the easily visible Rifugio Lorenzi.
For those not wanting to take the lifts it is possible to ascend on foot via path 206 and then 203 as far as Rifugio Son Forca. From here you have to hack up the large scree bowl directly under © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fantastic views of the surrounding area. Can see the Tre Cime on a clear day.
Note: as of 2019 the upper lift (Staunies gondola) no longer runs. The approach therefore begins at Rifugio Son Forca.

Ticklists

Big Routes, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 31 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Andyjharper 18 Jul, 2017 Lead
with Iza
with Iza
Steph Mitchell 1 Sep, 2016 -
David Stevens 1 Sep, 2016 -
jussiupn 22 Jul, 2016 - This time very good weather and finished properly. Started raining just when we got back to rifugio. Eating at rifugio and then visited the bridge on the other side. Almost got stuck in the middle station as it was thundering and skilift was stopped. Started again after a while and we got back down.
with Jonna Pyyhti?, Jari Kinnunen, Milla Kinnunen, Junde
This time very good weather and finished properly. Started raining just when we got back to rifugio. Eating at rifugio and then visited the bridge on the other side. Almost got stuck in the middle station as it was thundering and skilift was stopped. Started again after a while and we got back down.
with Jonna Pyyhti?, Jari Kinnunen, Milla Kinnunen, Junde
steveg 20 Jul, 2016 - Bailed off as Stu not happy
with Stuart
Bailed off as Stu not happy
with Stuart
Hidden 16 Jul, 2016 -
ClareM.123 15 Jul, 2016 - Fantastic VF, after a nights stay at rifugio Lorenzi! still some snow underfoot. Highly recommendable!
Fantastic VF, after a nights stay at rifugio Lorenzi! still some snow underfoot. Highly recommendable!
Hidden 22 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Martin Davies 22 Jun, 2016 AltLd dnf Too much snow, short roped sections where cable buried but then too difficult to cross last section, could see summit cross!
with AdP
Too much snow, short roped sections where cable buried but then too difficult to cross last section, could see summit cross!
with AdP
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2015 Solo O/S
ophillips 30 Aug, 2015 -
Charlie Eperon 28 Aug, 2015 -
Giles Eperon 28 Aug, 2015 -
kirky_p 28 Aug, 2015 -
IJHunt 27 Aug, 2015 Solo O/S
with Fiona
with Fiona
Andy Fielding 11 Aug, 2015 Solo
Martin Bennett 7 Aug, 2015 -
with Paul Webb, Laura, Magi
with Paul Webb, Laura, Magi
Hidden 6 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Fentonio 1 Aug, 2015 -
yelotango ?Aug, 2015 -
john. e.r 5 Jul, 2015 Lead
jussiupn 22 Jun, 2015 - Very nice ferrata! Too bad it was all inside clouds during our trip. We turned back from last high point before final peak. Must do another time with better weather
with Lotta Vilen, Jonas Vilen, Kirsi Kaski, Paavo Kuosmanen
Very nice ferrata! Too bad it was all inside clouds during our trip. We turned back from last high point before final peak. Must do another time with better weather
with Lotta Vilen, Jonas Vilen, Kirsi Kaski, Paavo Kuosmanen
Hidden 13 Sep, 2014 -
Sean Martin 9 Sep, 2014 - Nice route but busy
Nice route but busy
Charlie Low 9 Sep, 2014 -
with Sue Low
with Sue Low
Tim Harper 20 Jul, 2014 -
Hidden 8 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) 2 Aug, 2013 -
JamesRich 1 Aug, 2012 -
with Karen Rich, Howard Rich, Paul Rich
with Karen Rich, Howard Rich, Paul Rich
jhobbs 17 Jul, 2012 -
tmelrose 17 Jul, 2012 Solo
with jhobbs
with jhobbs
Hidden 9 Jul, 2012 -
BeckyS ?Jul, 2012 Solo O/S
JulianD 8 Sep, 2011 Solo
with Paul B, David H
with Paul B, David H
Hidden 5 Sep, 2011 -
tomdawson4 ?Sep, 2011 -
syv_k ?Aug, 2011 Lead dnf Bailed before summit as partner sprained her knee.Easy ground but effects of altitude quite noticeable.
Bailed before summit as partner sprained her knee.Easy ground but effects of altitude quite noticeable.
AndyMcCoy 17 Jul, 2011 -
David Walker 19 Jun, 2010 Solo O/S
with MariaT
with MariaT
MariaT 19 Jun, 2010 Solo O/S Blizzard halfway round. Missed chairlift back down and forced to stay overnight in rifugio. Knee deep snow by morning.
Blizzard halfway round. Missed chairlift back down and forced to stay overnight in rifugio. Knee deep snow by morning.
Hidden 20 Aug, 2009 -
cas smerdon 15 Aug, 2009 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 -
jcj ??, 2009 -
Dunx ??, 2009 -
Hidden 3 Sep, 2008 -
Hidden 1 Sep, 2008 -
Hidden 25 Jul, 2008 -
swhite 5 Jul, 2008 -
Hidden 26 Jul, 2007 -
andy tetsill ?Aug, 2006 - Cort 5, Cicerone Via Ferratas Italian Dolomites vol 1
Cort 5, Cicerone Via Ferratas Italian Dolomites vol 1
Hidden 10 Jul, 2006 -
AsleepOnBelay 4 Jul, 2006 - Great route at high altitude. Took a bit longer than we expected. Quite a lot of downclimbing.
with Sarah Davis
Great route at high altitude. Took a bit longer than we expected. Quite a lot of downclimbing.
with Sarah Davis
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 -
riddle ?Jun, 2006 AltLd
with Tom, Tom & Camilla
with Tom, Tom & Camilla
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 Solo dnf
andrewbooth1000 2 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
with Keira
with Keira
buxtoncoffeelover ?Aug, 2004 Solo
Chris the Tall 28 Aug, 2003 - OK on the way up, very scary descent. Getting static shocks from the cable for much of the way with a storm brewing.
with IggyLiz
OK on the way up, very scary descent. Getting static shocks from the cable for much of the way with a storm brewing.
with IggyLiz
ElShalimo ?Sep, 2002 -
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Votes cast 11
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