UKC

Rockfax Description
This high altitude via ferrata is perfect for those wanting to get up high in a remote environment, whilst enjoying a more modest grade of climbing. Whilst sections of technical climbing are few, this is more than compensated for by the stunning views and situations. The via ferrata can get exceptionally busy in peak season, particularly if the weather is good, so it is worth avoiding at the weekends. The majority of the route unfolds above 3000m and can hold snow for much of the season so it should not be underestimated. Monte Cristallo is also notorious for holding cloud, particularly in the afternoon. For this reason it is worth making an early start. Keep an eye on the time so that you can make the last lift back down if you are not planning on staying at Rifugio Lorenzi. Whilst it is possible to descend all the way on foot the scree under the Son Forca/Staunies gondola is unpleasant, especially in the dark! If you have time it's also worth doing the first 200m or so of via ferrata Ivano Dibona (page 422 ) to see the impressive suspension bridge.
Approach - From Cortina take the Tre Croci Pass (SS48 ) signed towards 'Misurina'. After 8km there is a large parking area on the right opposite the Rio Gere/Son Forca chairlift station. The usual approach is via the two stage Rio Gere lift system. First take the Rio Gere/Son Forca chairlift and then the Son Forca/Staunies gondola, which is an experience in itself - be careful getting on and off the lift. From here a 2 minute walk to the southeast takes you to the easily visible Rifugio Lorenzi.
For those not wanting to take the lifts it is possible to ascend on foot via path 206 and then 203 as far as Rifugio Son Forca. From here you have to hack up the large scree bowl directly under the Son Forca/Staunies gondola. This is not recommended; the walk isn't particularly scenic, there is just over 1200m of ascent before you even start the via ferrata and the final scree slope is arduous at best. Just pay the money, you'll be glad you did. The lifts normally open in late June and run until mid September. It is worth checking the exact lift opening times (which vary from s eason to season) with Rifugio Lorenzi or the Cortina tourist office.
VF - The wire begins almost immediately from the rifugio decking and is well marked with red paint heading away to the south. The route weaves its way back and forth undulating along the ridge-line and passing several ladders. There are no major difficulties on the route but it can be slow going if the route is busy. As you get near the summit, the wire branches in an effort to ease congestion with those returning back down. The ascent route is clearly marked once again in red paint with arrows. Eventually you reach the high point of the route, the summit of Cima di Mezzo (3154m), marked with an impressive cross. The views from here are spectacular on a clear day and well worth the effort.
Descent - To descend follow the red paint marked 'discesa' and denoted with red squares painted on the rock. This takes you in a loop off the summit, preventing congestion from those coming up. Shortly after you will rejoin the main route and you can retrace your steps all the way back to Rifugio Lorenzi and a well deserved drink. Take the two stage Rio Gere lifts back to the car park. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fantastic views of the surrounding area. Can see the Tre Cime on a clear day.

Ticklists: Dolomites Trip.


ClimberDateStyle
Andyjharper 18/Jul/17 Lead
with Iza
Steph Mitchell 01/Sep/16 -
David Stevens 01/Sep/16 -
jussiupn 22/Jul/16 -

This time very good weather and finished properly. Started raining just when we got back to rifugio. Eating at rifugio and then visited the bridge on the other side. Almost got stuck in the middle station as it was thundering and skilift was stopped. Started again after a while and we got back down.

with Jonna Pyyhti?, Jari Kinnunen, Milla Kinnunen, Junde
steveg 20/Jul/16 -

Bailed off as Stu not happy

with Stuart
Hidden 16/Jul/16 -
ClareM.123 15/Jul/16 -

Fantastic VF, after a nights stay at rifugio Lorenzi! still some snow underfoot. Highly recommendable!

Martin Davies 22/Jun/16 AltLd dnf

Too much snow, short roped sections where cable buried but then too difficult to cross last section, could see summit cross!

with AdP
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 Solo O/S
ophillips 30/Aug/15 -
Charlie Eperon 28/Aug/15 -
Giles Eperon 28/Aug/15 -
kirky_p 28/Aug/15 -
IJHunt 27/Aug/15 Solo O/S
with Fiona
Andy Fielding 11/Aug/15 Solo
Martin Bennett 07/Aug/15 -
with Paul Webb, Laura, Magi
ynot 06/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ali
Fentonio 01/Aug/15 -
yelotango ?/Aug/15 -
john. e.r 05/Jul/15 Lead
jussiupn 22/Jun/15 -

Very nice ferrata! Too bad it was all inside clouds during our trip. We turned back from last high point before final peak. Must do another time with better weather

with Lotta Vilen, Jonas Vilen, Kirsi Kaski, Paavo Kuosmanen
Hidden 13/Sep/14 -
Sean Martin 09/Sep/14 -

Nice route but busy

Charlie Low 09/Sep/14 -
with Sue Low
Tim Harper 20/Jul/14 -
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Bullybones 02/Aug/13 -
JamesRich 01/Aug/12 -
with Karen Rich, Howard Rich, Paul Rich
jhobbs 17/Jul/12 -
tmelrose 17/Jul/12 Solo
with jhobbs
Hidden 09/Jul/12 -
BeckyS ?/Jul/12 Solo O/S
JulianD 08/Sep/11 Solo
with Paul B, David H
Hidden 05/Sep/11 -
tomdawson4 ?/Sep/11 -
syv_k ?/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Bailed before summit as partner sprained her knee.Easy ground but effects of altitude quite noticeable.

AndyMcCoy 17/Jul/11 -
David Walker 19/Jun/10 Solo O/S
with MariaT
MariaT 19/Jun/10 Solo O/S

Blizzard halfway round. Missed chairlift back down and forced to stay overnight in rifugio. Knee deep snow by morning.

Hidden 03/Sep/09 -
Hidden 20/Aug/09 -
cas smerdon 15/Aug/09 -
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
jcj ??/2009 -
Dunx ??/2009 -
Hidden 03/Sep/08 -
Hidden 01/Sep/08 -
Hidden 25/Jul/08 -
swhite 05/Jul/08 -
Hidden 26/Jul/07 -
andy tetsill ?/Aug/06 -

Cort 5, Cicerone Via Ferratas Italian Dolomites vol 1

Hidden 10/Jul/06 -
AsleepOnBelay 04/Jul/06 -

Great route at high altitude. Took a bit longer than we expected. Quite a lot of downclimbing.

with Sarah Davis
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
riddle ?/Jun/06 AltLd
with Tom, Tom & Camilla
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Solo dnf
andrewbooth1000 02/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Keira
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Aug/04 Solo
Chris the Tall 28/Aug/03 -

OK on the way up, very scary descent. Getting static shocks from the cable for much of the way with a storm brewing.

with IggyLiz
ElShalimo ?/Sep/02 -
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