Rockfax Description
An excellent, if fairly short, via ferrata that can be highly recommended based on the stunning view you get from the summit. It is also a great way to escape the crowds and is usually considerably quieter than the nearby Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler. It can also be combined with the above for a fantastic day out that naturally leads you in a large circle of the towers (just be sure to set off early). The route will also appeal to many due to its significant historical role. Torre Toblino's commanding view of the surrounding area from its summit made it an invaluable observation post during the First World War. The Austrians were keen to access it but because Italian fire made the easier south side (today's descent route) inaccessible, they equipped the shady north chimney taken by today's modern route (there are still sections of the original ladder to be seen along the route).
Approach - Park at Rifugio Auronzo at the top of the toll road as for the other Tre Cime climbs (see page 451 ). From Rifugio Auronzo, follow path 101 east on a good track signed towards 'Rifugio Lavaredo'. About 50m before the rifugio, branch off left, still on path 101 signed towards 'Forcella Lavaredo' and 'Rifugio Locatelli'. Once at Forcella Lavaredo, you will be able to see Rifugio Locatelli on the horizon to the north. Continue following path 101, contouring under the spiky ridge of Monte Paterno, until you reach the rifugio. From here take path 105 northwest below Sasso di Sesto, following signs for 'Torre Toblino'. The path continues heading roughly north until you get to a shoulder on the northwest side of Torre Toblino. Follow the path up the shoulder to the base of the tower. Continue following the path clockwise around the base of the tower, passing numerous lookout posts, gun emplacements and caves that are worth exploring. The start of the via ferrata is marked with a large red arrow that points up towards a commemorative plaque.
VF - The first part of the route is the most difficult and is fairly strenuous on small but positive holds. At the top of this the route name 'Delle Scalette - way of the ladders' becomes apparent. Look out for the original ladders still in evidence (though not to be used!) today. The ladders are often airy but well protected. A few of them are slightly overhanging making them strenuous in parts. Follow the succession of ladders to the summit passing an entertaining chimney section at mid height. Care needs to be taken on the summit as it is relatively small with big drops in most directions.
Descent - To descend from the summit of Torre Toblino follow the wires leading southeast down the Sentiero del Curato Militare Hosp (normal route) wires. The path is well marked with red paint and features some easy down-climbing on intermittent wires (though alas no more ladders). Towards the base of Torre Toblino the path becomes a bit confused as people head in many different directions. As a general rule you need to be angling back towards Rifugio Locatelli for the best possible path. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
rosso 03/Aug Solo O/S
with Faye
gav 16/Jul -
with Anna
amaciejk 16/Jul -
with Gavin
Hidden ?/Jul -
TomGB 26/May Solo O/S

Nice route with some good exposure. Some parts still buried under snow in gullies but short enough to get past. Lovely walk in to the rifugio through stunning alpine scenery.

with Julie Taylor, Karl Stewart, Stewart Moody, Adam Butler
Hidden 26/May Solo O/S
Karlos 26/May Solo

Great route, with lots of ladders on the steep sections. But permanently in the shade, and lots of the ledges has snow on them burying the cable.

with Adam B, Muffin
Hidden 06/Sep/16 -
JulianD 04/Sep/16 Solo
with Paul B, David H
tasp05 23/Aug/16 -
mikehenesy 23/Aug/16 -
with Willy
Buccaneerbilly 23/Aug/16 -
Hidden 20/Aug/16 -
Martin Davies 25/Jun/16 -

Excellent, amazing exposure!

ynot 02/Aug/15 Lead
with Ali
Hidden ?/Aug/15 -
john. e.r 10/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/14 -
Celia Watson 15/Sep/14 -
Neil Metcalfe101 06/Jun/12 -
with Andy Beal, Lesley Beal, Loraine Rowan, Andy Odger
Neil Metcalfe101 06/Jun/12 -
with Andy Beal, Lesley Beal, Loraine Rowan, Andy Odger
Hidden 07/Sep/11 -
rch3l ?/Sep/11 Solo
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Solo
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/11 -
Hidden 20/Sep/09 -
Hidden 20/Sep/09 -
Hidden ?/Sep/09 -
sam coward 12/Aug/09 -
with Helen
Hidden 05/Sep/08 -
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
Hidden 19/Jul/08 -
swhite 03/Jul/08 -
CathS 04/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Snowing, with ice on the route and the wires/ladders. A very entertaining afternoon. Fantastic top-up and views from the summit

Chris the Tall 03/Sep/06 -

Round trip from refuge - 1 hr, 25 mins

andy tetsill ?/Aug/06 -

Misur 2, Cicerone Via Ferratas Italian Dolomites vol 1

Hidden 17/Jul/06 -
sam coward 05/Aug/03 -
with Helen
matthewjbellamy ?/Apr/02 -
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