400m, 14 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 400m, 4 - 5 hours. The features on the route are clear and following your nose is easier than trying to stick to a detailed topo so only the crux pitches, or those with difficult route finding, are described individually. On the sections described by the feature they follow, it may be possible to move together in places and to split the pitches - whatever works best for you.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, follow the path south towards the Glacier des Pélerins, signposted for the Refuge des Grands Mulets. The path splits; go right to end up on a moraine ridge with the glacier on the right and the west face of the Aiguille du Peigne on the left. Follow the path up the moraine ridge to reach the snowfield at the foot of the west face and then climb this to the start of the route. The snow patch is 40 degrees and although not crevassed, there can be a fairly big gap from the snow to the rock so crampons are usually necessary to get across this.
1) 4c. Climb two 30m pitches (4c) up the slabby runnels above the snow patch and, at the end of the second pitch, traverse right to reach a large horizontal ledge.
2) Traverse the ledge rightwards easily to the foot of a ramp system.
3) 5c. Follow the ramp for three to four (5b/c), aiming straight for a deep-cut chimney which is visible all the way up.
4) Climb cracks below the chimney and belay at the foot of where it really widens.
The next three pitches are described in detail as the section above the chimney seems illogical at first and is the scene of many teams going off route.
5) 5c, 40m. It is best to leave your rucksacks here and haul them up having tackled the chimney. You'll thank us for that bit of advice when you're halfway up, even if it looks innocuous enough from below! Using all the style you have, thrutch up the chimney clipping a couple of welcome pegs and exit rightwards at the top. Step up and left to belay.
6) 5b, 15m. Climb a crack on the left and then step right around a rib to belay on a hidden large ledge.
7) 6a, 30m. Head up the steep wall above the belay via a steep jamming crack to reach an arête. Avoid the overhang above by following another crack rightwards to reach a deep, light-coloured groove. Once in this, step down 1m and go around a rib on the right to reach another hidden ledge and belay here.
8) 5b. Climb the groove above the belay and then follow a ramp (5b, flakes and cracks).
9) 5b. Where the ramp flattens off, head right and climb cracks up a light-coloured slab to gain the ridge just below Pointe 3078m.
Descent - Traverse the ridge rightwards easily to reach a bolted abseil anchor just below where the ridge ends. Make 8 to 12 abseils (depending on the exact line taken) to the right of the Contamine-Vaucher, mainly on bolted anchors. These are not always easy to spot and, at the time of a writing, a couple had been removed so it may be necessary to create your own anchors with abseil tat. Upon reaching the easy traverse (section 2 in the description) reverse this and then abseil the first couple of pitches back to the snow patch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
13-14 pitches, good belays, nice chimney at half height and crux roof pitch thereafter. Descent is bit tricky as the best rap line is, if one comes up on the far left pointe, found by traversing to the next pointe and locating the rap rings that are on the SW side providing a straight shot down to where boots and bags are left at beginning of climb (think about 10 raps, all with solid rap ring anchors).

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Steve Woollard 3 Sep 2nd
with Tim N
with Tim N
Hidden 8 Aug Lead
Jo sumner 8 Aug 2nd
Everetta 30 Jul AltLd O/S
Robbie Blease 14 Jul AltLd
mim tiller 14 Jul AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 14 Jul AltLd O/S
JohnHartley 14 Jul AltLd O/S Party on the Peigne with Robbie and Tim, 5 hours bottom to top. Out of body experience on the chimney
Party on the Peigne with Robbie and Tim, 5 hours bottom to top. Out of body experience on the chimney
QuentinSu 8 Jul Lead rpt
Adam Coles 30 Jun Lead O/S
im off 16 Oct, 2018 AltLd From aiguille de plan hut. Started 8am on route. Went variation direct in bottom section. Got dark on us by 7 when reached gully ledge below last pitch. Bivi and shivered for night as didn't want to ab in dark and risk stuck rope epics. Finished next am and abbed. Vs to e2 ish. All pitches great.
From aiguille de plan hut. Started 8am on route. Went variation direct in bottom section. Got dark on us by 7 when reached gully ledge below last pitch. Bivi and shivered for night as didn't want to ab in dark and risk stuck rope epics. Finished next am and abbed. Vs to e2 ish. All pitches great.
Just Will 20 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Richard Ive
with Richard Ive
LucaC 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead the 5c chimney (really not as bad as the description makes out) and the 6a changing corner pitch. Caught in the rain 4 absails down which made for a soggy walk back.
with John
Lead the 5c chimney (really not as bad as the description makes out) and the 6a changing corner pitch. Caught in the rain 4 absails down which made for a soggy walk back.
with John
Hidden 26 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt
DigitalSteak 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 -
shah 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
jameslomax 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Fun route, though a little crux-y. Led P2,3,5,7,9. Was intending to climb this in the afternoon but after much delay catching the lift we decided we wouldn't have the light, so camped immediately below the snow field for a refreshingly non-alpine start (8am). Entire route is easy to protect with nuts and mid-sized cams. Most of the climbing is obvious but the instructions for pitch 7 leave a bit to be desired, here is where I went (in guidebook style): From the large belay ledge, follow the corner up to the overhanging crack; lay-back and jam right and up to escape the overhang and continue to follow the crack with holds on the right to reach easier ground and jugs in a crack slanting down and right. Follow this crack down and right into the "deep, light-coloured groove" to reach cracks in the corner with the right wall of the groove. Move up towards the peg (which may have dubious looking tat hanging off it), optionally clip and move back down 1 meter to find holds to escape groove to right into another smaller groove (peg) make tricky moves up and right, and then right round the corner to the hidden belay ledge. I also managed to go wrong at the top, ending up left of the pointy bit. Make sure you go right.
with Omar Shah
Fun route, though a little crux-y. Led P2,3,5,7,9. Was intending to climb this in the afternoon but after much delay catching the lift we decided we wouldn't have the light, so camped immediately below the snow field for a refreshingly non-alpine start (8am). Entire route is easy to protect with nuts and mid-sized cams. Most of the climbing is obvious but the instructions for pitch 7 leave a bit to be desired, here is where I went (in guidebook style): From the large belay ledge, follow the corner up to the overhanging crack; lay-back and jam right and up to escape the overhang and continue to follow the crack with holds on the right to reach easier ground and jugs in a crack slanting down and right. Follow this crack down and right into the "deep, light-coloured groove" to reach cracks in the corner with the right wall of the groove. Move up towards the peg (which may have dubious looking tat hanging off it), optionally clip and move back down 1 meter to find holds to escape groove to right into another smaller groove (peg) make tricky moves up and right, and then right round the corner to the hidden belay ledge. I also managed to go wrong at the top, ending up left of the pointy bit. Make sure you go right.
with Omar Shah
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden 5 Oct, 2017 AltLd
SeánM 4 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
Matt Groom 27 Aug, 2017 -
Hugh Irving 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with davkeo
with davkeo
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Matt Groom
with Matt Groom
metrorat 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Amy Wight
with Amy Wight
James W 18 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
James Oswald 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Exhausting and faffy day - see Ben's comment!
Exhausting and faffy day - see Ben's comment!
benkelsey 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Team Slow strike again. Got car stuck behind barrier at campsite and walked up, also Wald struggled with the approach snow slopes (but led the crux pitches in style) so started climbing more towards Midday #Britsabroad. Abbed off around half Five some three pitches below the summit. Into Cham for dusk. Good day
Team Slow strike again. Got car stuck behind barrier at campsite and walked up, also Wald struggled with the approach snow slopes (but led the crux pitches in style) so started climbing more towards Midday #Britsabroad. Abbed off around half Five some three pitches below the summit. Into Cham for dusk. Good day
tom.m 8 Sep, 2016 -
with Tom Coney
with Tom Coney
Rob Royle 7 Sep, 2016 2nd Fantastic route on amazing granite!
with Mountain Guide
Fantastic route on amazing granite!
with Mountain Guide
QuentinSu ?Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Gumery 27 Jul, 2016 AltLd dnf Rapped after the Chimney to avoid the rain
with Alex Marchant
Rapped after the Chimney to avoid the rain
with Alex Marchant
Hidden 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd
saaruli 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd Erik lead the crux pitch under the roofs, I lead the rest.
with erik..
Erik lead the crux pitch under the roofs, I lead the rest.
with erik..
alex toomey 24 Jul, 2015 AltLd dnf Abbed off, one pitch from the summit due to thunder storm and increasing lightening
Abbed off, one pitch from the summit due to thunder storm and increasing lightening
Hidden 22 Jul, 2015 AltLd rpt
alexm198 10 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Nice route on good granite, though the grades shouldn't be underestimated - proper old school thuggery, serious value. After the chimney pitch we headed up too high rather than traversing right on the terrace as seems to be the way, and ended up on a super gnarly crack/slab nightmare...
Nice route on good granite, though the grades shouldn't be underestimated - proper old school thuggery, serious value. After the chimney pitch we headed up too high rather than traversing right on the terrace as seems to be the way, and ended up on a super gnarly crack/slab nightmare...
Hidden 10 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd
monsteratt 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Great day out, interesting pitches, climbed in good style and speed. Avoided thunder and lightning. Happy bunnies
with Peter
Great day out, interesting pitches, climbed in good style and speed. Avoided thunder and lightning. Happy bunnies
with Peter
walts4 6 Jun, 2015 -
with monty
with monty
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Misha 21 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S A long day! Turned up at the lift to find it was delayed by an hour due to fresh snow at the top. About 45 mins to approach with a short neve at the end, crampons useful but no need for an axe. Started the route at 9am. I started out hoping to link the first two pitches and get to the terrace. Easy climbing led to more difficult ground in the same line, which proved pretty exciting as it was damp and both my fingers and toes were cold! After negotiating a tricky section I belayed on old bolts and gear and Nic led through up a damp groove - great lead, I found it sketchy seconding! Never before have I had to pull on frozen grass when rock climbing! All this easily cost us an hour. In fact there's a bolted belay slightly to the left at around 40m and the pitch above that is fairly easy and dry (saw it on abseil). Overall it's about 70m to the terrace as had to scramble down a bit on our last ab down from the terrace. I led the easy groove above the right hand end of the terrace, Nic led the easy ground above and moved together for the next pitch (a bit tricky in places) to get to the shallow groove below the chimney. I did a long pitch to belay on pegs and gear below the squeeze chimney. Nic led that (thankfully easy, actually not much chimneying involved!) and the tricky groove above to a platform. All very traditional on this section. I did the tricky crack on the left (camptocamp suggested French 4c - it's harder!), traversing right to a platform below the crux pitch. Nic led that - several full on jamming sections and some exciting traversing, would be a gnarly grit HVS! I did a long pitch up vertical flakes which all felt a bit suspect but were ok if a bit damp in places - didn't really enjoy it! Nic carried on up a slanting chimney/groove line and carried on moving together up easy ground up and right. I finished off to get onto the ridge just right of the gendarme. We did it in 11 pitches with some moving together. Nic spotted the ab station amongst the swirling clouds at a pointe about 30m along the ridge away from the gendarme. The ab line is more or less straight down to the slabby middle section and has at least one new bolt on each station, happy days! Then a few more abs down the slabby section, not quite following the route we took on the way up. The ab stations there are older but ok. Nightmare to sort the ropes out though as it isn't steep enough! About 12 abs in total. Not the best weather and conditions - started off cold and damp in places as out of the sun, then just as the sun crept round around midday the clouds came in and we were in the clag for the rest of the day with visibility mostly down to a pitch! On the ridge at 5pm, back down at 7.30pm so had to walk down, which was another two and a half hours. Second time I've walked down that path so knew it was long but had forgotten just how long - murder on the legs! Overall, some good, fun climbing, especially in the chimney section and on the crux but much of the rest is nothing to write home about, so I think the two stars given here is right. Would no doubt have enjoyed it more in the sunshine!
with Nicolas
A long day! Turned up at the lift to find it was delayed by an hour due to fresh snow at the top. About 45 mins to approach with a short neve at the end, crampons useful but no need for an axe. Started the route at 9am. I started out hoping to link the first two pitches and get to the terrace. Easy climbing led to more difficult ground in the same line, which proved pretty exciting as it was damp and both my fingers and toes were cold! After negotiating a tricky section I belayed on old bolts and gear and Nic led through up a damp groove - great lead, I found it sketchy seconding! Never before have I had to pull on frozen grass when rock climbing! All this easily cost us an hour. In fact there's a bolted belay slightly to the left at around 40m and the pitch above that is fairly easy and dry (saw it on abseil). Overall it's about 70m to the terrace as had to scramble down a bit on our last ab down from the terrace. I led the easy groove above the right hand end of the terrace, Nic led the easy ground above and moved together for the next pitch (a bit tricky in places) to get to the shallow groove below the chimney. I did a long pitch to belay on pegs and gear below the squeeze chimney. Nic led that (thankfully easy, actually not much chimneying involved!) and the tricky groove above to a platform. All very traditional on this section. I did the tricky crack on the left (camptocamp suggested French 4c - it's harder!), traversing right to a platform below the crux pitch. Nic led that - several full on jamming sections and some exciting traversing, would be a gnarly grit HVS! I did a long pitch up vertical flakes which all felt a bit suspect but were ok if a bit damp in places - didn't really enjoy it! Nic carried on up a slanting chimney/groove line and carried on moving together up easy ground up and right. I finished off to get onto the ridge just right of the gendarme. We did it in 11 pitches with some moving together. Nic spotted the ab station amongst the swirling clouds at a pointe about 30m along the ridge away from the gendarme. The ab line is more or less straight down to the slabby middle section and has at least one new bolt on each station, happy days! Then a few more abs down the slabby section, not quite following the route we took on the way up. The ab stations there are older but ok. Nightmare to sort the ropes out though as it isn't steep enough! About 12 abs in total. Not the best weather and conditions - started off cold and damp in places as out of the sun, then just as the sun crept round around midday the clouds came in and we were in the clag for the rest of the day with visibility mostly down to a pitch! On the ridge at 5pm, back down at 7.30pm so had to walk down, which was another two and a half hours. Second time I've walked down that path so knew it was long but had forgotten just how long - murder on the legs! Overall, some good, fun climbing, especially in the chimney section and on the crux but much of the rest is nothing to write home about, so I think the two stars given here is right. Would no doubt have enjoyed it more in the sunshine!
with Nicolas
Hidden 21 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
jimmatthews 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf Wet & fun. Abbed after difficulties.
with Stuart Bygrave, chris687
Wet & fun. Abbed after difficulties.
with Stuart Bygrave, chris687
Hidden 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf
ndraper1 25 Jul, 2014 - climbed 10 pitches and bailed from swirling clouds and so jessie could get the lift back whilst I took the shoelace express. Perfect granite, imposing chimney pitch!
climbed 10 pitches and bailed from swirling clouds and so jessie could get the lift back whilst I took the shoelace express. Perfect granite, imposing chimney pitch!
Hidden 22 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
kelliroberts3 6 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Pete Rigby 6 Jul, 2014 -
with Kelli Roberts
with Kelli Roberts
Grant Fulton ?Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf Abbed off after awesome chimney pitch, climbed slowly.
with Iasiah, Charlie Edwards
Abbed off after awesome chimney pitch, climbed slowly.
with Iasiah, Charlie Edwards
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd dnf
Hidden 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd dnf
Hidden 29 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Dave Searle ??, 2013 -
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
Stuart Johnston 14 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Tricky route finding. The chimney pitches felt harder than VI+!
with Misha Gopaul
Tricky route finding. The chimney pitches felt harder than VI+!
with Misha Gopaul
Colin Knowles 11 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S Great route - made up for failing about twenty years ago. Very tiring though if you are the rucksack carrier.
Great route - made up for failing about twenty years ago. Very tiring though if you are the rucksack carrier.
chrisallan 31 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 30 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S To the top of the gendarme. Excellent!
To the top of the gendarme. Excellent!
Tom Livingstone 27 Jul, 2012 AltLd dnf what he said. great climbing though
with Ollie B
what he said. great climbing though
with Ollie B
Ollie B 27 Jul, 2012 AltLd dnf Upto halfway but slwo parties in front would have meant we missed the last lift so bailed.
with T.Livinstone
Upto halfway but slwo parties in front would have meant we missed the last lift so bailed.
with T.Livinstone
Drew M ?Sep, 2011 AltLd
tumbling wizard ?Sep, 2011 AltLd
with Drew M
with Drew M
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 6 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
liz j 6 Sep, 2010 -
with Matt Dickinson
with Matt Dickinson
AnnaBacklund ?Sep, 2010 -
noskki ?Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ?Aug, 2010 -
with andrew marshall
with andrew marshall
stuart34 18 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S With bags, moved together on 4+ pitches, charles led the 6a+
with Charles Spanyard
With bags, moved together on 4+ pitches, charles led the 6a+
with Charles Spanyard
C Mclean ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
with Tom Nichols
with Tom Nichols
hamish2016 13 Sep, 2009 AltLd
with sergey, tom grant
with sergey, tom grant
inuklm 23 Aug, 2009 -
with Dave Gent
with Dave Gent
davidgent 23 Aug, 2009 -
with Kunal
with Kunal
Somerset swede basher 10 Jul, 2008 AltLd
with George Taylor
with George Taylor
Mihkel 1 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S Took far far too heavy a rucksack! Didn't bother to take bits and bobs out (like Mike's bag of carrots!!!) and paid for it - climbing was always v physical and often offwidthy. Abseil descent seemed to have been rigged for 60m ropes (we had 50s). Finished in dark. A hard day. 7hrs (gbt + 2).
with Mike Barclay
Took far far too heavy a rucksack! Didn't bother to take bits and bobs out (like Mike's bag of carrots!!!) and paid for it - climbing was always v physical and often offwidthy. Abseil descent seemed to have been rigged for 60m ropes (we had 50s). Finished in dark. A hard day. 7hrs (gbt + 2).
with Mike Barclay
mattyork2 ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
feilx ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
dannyboy83 ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with feilx
with feilx
Hidden 31 Aug, 2003 -
Hidden 28 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2003 -
t p hubbard ?Aug, 2002 -
NeilGriffiths ??, 2002 -
with James Hubbard
with James Hubbard
dan gibson ?Aug, 2001 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Grezza ?Jun, 2001 AltLd Classic
with Paul E
Classic
with Paul E
stokesrees ??, 1997 Lead
with Ryan Brown
with Ryan Brown
NickJH ?Jul, 1996 AltLd O/S
with LiamG
with LiamG
Climbingspike ??, 1996 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Aug, 1995 AltLd
with Julian Wood
with Julian Wood
tompercy 10 Jul, 1995 AltLd
with Amos Preminger
with Amos Preminger
alkira 6 Aug, 1993 -
with bruce goodlad
with bruce goodlad
alkira 6 Aug, 1993 -
with harvey mullen
with harvey mullen
Mike_d78 25 Aug, 1992 AltLd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 25 Aug, 1992 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 ??, 1992 -
adamade ?Aug, 1991 2nd
with Cathy O'Dowd
with Cathy O'Dowd
Tony Kartawick ?Aug, 1990 Lead O/S Had to lead all pitchs 'cos had damaged both thumbs kayaking. could only clip gear ....no unclipping. Finnished up SSSW arete of Aig. du Paine in a storm had to cut ropes, nearly died!!!!!!!!!!!
with James Thomas
Had to lead all pitchs 'cos had damaged both thumbs kayaking. could only clip gear ....no unclipping. Finnished up SSSW arete of Aig. du Paine in a storm had to cut ropes, nearly died!!!!!!!!!!!
with James Thomas
Tony Kartawick ?Aug, 1990 AltLd rpt this part of the route was smooth. getting off from the summit was epic
with James Thomas
this part of the route was smooth. getting off from the summit was epic
with James Thomas
Hidden 7 Aug, 1989 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH 6 Aug, 1989 AltLd
with Phil Baker
with Phil Baker
Hidden ?Jun, 1989 AltLd
michael burrows 26 Jul, 1988 AltLd O/S did the SW ridge after
with steve williams
did the SW ridge after
with steve williams
Hidden ?Jul, 1988 AltLd
bobelvedere 15 Jul, 1986 AltLd
with Finn Klinkby
with Finn Klinkby
Richard Weller ?Jul, 1986 -
with john sanders
with john sanders
Hidden ??, 1986 -
Lone Rider ??, 1986 AltLd
garywalker147 ??, 1986 AltLd
John Marsland 5 Aug, 1985 -
with Dave Soles
with Dave Soles
Hidden ?Aug, 1985 AltLd
garywalker147 ??, 1985 AltLd
with Alistair
with Alistair
Hidden ?Jun, 1984 -
Robmwatt ??, 1984 -
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
John Marsland ?Aug, 1983 AltLd dnf
with Paul Cook
with Paul Cook
Hidden ?Aug, 1982 -
Neil McA 18 Aug, 1981 AltLd Great route. Suited our gritstone upbringing. Congested. 7 hours.
with Flog
Great route. Suited our gritstone upbringing. Congested. 7 hours.
with Flog
mark-abz ?Aug, 1981 AltLd
with ?
with ?
Falko 1 Aug, 1980 AltLd O/S First sighting of a jammed 'Friend' Brilliant route - perfect for a gritstone jammer.
with Al W.
First sighting of a jammed 'Friend' Brilliant route - perfect for a gritstone jammer.
with Al W.
Hidden ?Aug, 1978 AltLd
uphillnow ?Aug, 1978 Lead Climbed in mountain boots. Andy left some spare items at the top of the Peigne neve in his rucksack -stolen by climbers who must have been on the route. Guide book time even though congested.
with Andy Bennett
Climbed in mountain boots. Andy left some spare items at the top of the Peigne neve in his rucksack -stolen by climbers who must have been on the route. Guide book time even though congested.
with Andy Bennett
27 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
Votes cast 9
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set