Really good climbing and quite physical. I got the chimney pitch which must have been much easier to lead than second with the pack. The rockfax & Battoux topos show a big rightwards traverse once you get to the big ledge. This is misleading or inaccurate as we basically climbed up from the right side of the ledge as did everyone else.

Team Slow strike again. Got car stuck behind barrier at campsite and walked up, also Wald struggled with the approach snow slopes (but led the crux pitches in style) so started climbing more towards Midday #Britsabroad. Abbed off around half Five some three pitches below the summit. Into Cham for dusk. Good day

Fantastic route on amazing granite!

Rapped after the Chimney to avoid the rain

Erik lead the crux pitch under the roofs, I lead the rest.

Abbed off, one pitch from the summit due to thunder storm and increasing lightening

Nice route on good granite, though the grades shouldn't be underestimated - proper old school thuggery, serious value. After the chimney pitch we headed up too high rather than traversing right on the terrace as seems to be the way, and ended up on a super gnarly crack/slab nightmare...

Great day out, interesting pitches, climbed in good style and speed. Avoided thunder and lightning. Happy bunnies

A long day! Turned up at the lift to find it was delayed by an hour due to fresh snow at the top. About 45 mins to approach with a short neve at the end, crampons useful but no need for an axe. Started the route at 9am. I started out hoping to link the first two pitches and get to the terrace. Easy climbing led to more difficult ground in the same line, which proved pretty exciting as it was damp and both my fingers and toes were cold! After negotiating a tricky section I belayed on old bolts and gear and Nic led through up a damp groove - great lead, I found it sketchy seconding! Never before have I had to pull on frozen grass when rock climbing! All this easily cost us an hour. In fact there's a bolted belay slightly to the left at around 40m and the pitch above that is fairly easy and dry (saw it on abseil). Overall it's about 70m to the terrace as had to scramble down a bit on our last ab down from the terrace. I led the easy groove above the right hand end of the terrace, Nic led the easy ground above and moved together for the next pitch (a bit tricky in places) to get to the shallow groove below the chimney. I did a long pitch to belay on pegs and gear below the squeeze chimney. Nic led that (thankfully easy, actually not much chimneying involved!) and the tricky groove above to a platform. All very traditional on this section. I did the tricky crack on the left (camptocamp suggested French 4c - it's harder!), traversing right to a platform below the crux pitch. Nic led that - several full on jamming sections and some exciting traversing, would be a gnarly grit HVS! I did a long pitch up vertical flakes which all felt a bit suspect but were ok if a bit damp in places - didn't really enjoy it! Nic carried on up a slanting chimney/groove line and carried on moving together up easy ground up and right. I finished off to get onto the ridge just right of the gendarme. We did it in 11 pitches with some moving together. Nic spotted the ab station amongst the swirling clouds at a pointe about 30m along the ridge away from the gendarme. The ab line is more or less straight down to the slabby middle section and has at least one new bolt on each station, happy days! Then a few more abs down the slabby section, not quite following the route we took on the way up. The ab stations there are older but ok. Nightmare to sort the ropes out though as it isn't steep enough! About 12 abs in total. Not the best weather and conditions - started off cold and damp in places as out of the sun, then just as the sun crept round around midday the clouds came in and we were in the clag for the rest of the day with visibility mostly down to a pitch! On the ridge at 5pm, back down at 7.30pm so had to walk down, which was another two and a half hours. Second time I've walked down that path so knew it was long but had forgotten just how long - murder on the legs! Overall, some good, fun climbing, especially in the chimney section and on the crux but much of the rest is nothing to write home about, so I think the two stars given here is right. Would no doubt have enjoyed it more in the sunshine!

Wet & fun. Abbed after difficulties.

climbed 10 pitches and bailed from swirling clouds and so jessie could get the lift back whilst I took the shoelace express. Perfect granite, imposing chimney pitch!

Abbed off after awesome chimney pitch, climbed slowly.

Tricky route finding. The chimney pitches felt harder than VI+!

Great route - made up for failing about twenty years ago. Very tiring though if you are the rucksack carrier.

To the top of the gendarme. Excellent!

what he said. great climbing though

Upto halfway but slwo parties in front would have meant we missed the last lift so bailed.

With bags, moved together on 4+ pitches, charles led the 6a+

Classic

Had to lead all pitchs 'cos had damaged both thumbs kayaking. could only clip gear ....no unclipping. Finnished up SSSW arete of Aig. du Paine in a storm had to cut ropes, nearly died!!!!!!!!!!!

this part of the route was smooth. getting off from the summit was epic

did the SW ridge after

First sighting of a jammed 'Friend' Brilliant route - perfect for a gritstone jammer.