UKC

An outstanding line with devious and powerful climbing across the roof below the B.N.I slab.

Dave MacLeod Feb/2003.

Ticklists

Lowland Outcrops 2004 Pictured climbs , Scotland's 100 Hardest Boulders , Scottish 8th Grade Problems , Dumbarton Rock White Circuit , The Top 100 Boulder Problems in Scotland 7A or Harder , Glasgow bouldering starred problems , Boulder Scotland starred problems , Lowland Outcrops *** (Bouldering) , When in scotland

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User Date Notes
Dave MacLeod 14 Jul, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Looking at some recent videos, folk seem to start in the groove to the right of Sabotage and use a kneebar. This is a nice start at 7C+, but is not Sabotage. Sabotage starts sitting under the short prow formed by the slab at the back of the roof, right hand on a sharp edge at the top of the slab, left hand on the slab. Rock over leftwards, half onto the slab to get established on two pinch/wrap holds in the roof and then climb the roof direct. It earns the 8a grade because the lower half of the roof has a lot more moves this way.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looking at some recent videos, folk seem to start in the groove to the right of Sabotage and use a kneebar. This is a nice start at 7C+, but is not Sabotage. Sabotage starts sitting under the short prow formed by the slab at the back of the roof, right hand on a sharp edge at the top of the slab, left hand on the slab. Rock over leftwards, half onto the slab to get established on two pinch/wrap holds in the roof and then climb the roof direct. It earns the 8a grade because the lower half of the roof has a lot more moves this way.

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Guidebooks for Dumbarton Rock

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Voting
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
High f7C+
Mid f7C+
Low f7C+
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Firestarter

Grade: f8A ***
(Dumbarton Rock)

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