Scotland's first 8A boulder problem

The original method. From the two holds just below the crack climb to the jammed block and either pinch or crimp the top to make a big span up to the flake with your left hand. Now match the flake and finish up Pongo.

Malcom Smith 1998

Ticklists: The Stick It Tick List, Scottish 8th Grade Problems.

Jack McKechnie 22/Jun Sent rpt
Jack McKechnie 04/Apr Sent rpt

Repeated this today to see if I'm still strong enough. Went third go but I tried the move to the flange once before which went first time.

grey wolf 06/Nov/16 Sent x
Jack McKechnie 02/Oct/16 Sent x

Session number 6 - Finally finished it! I think it was 4th attempt of the day. So psyched to have done it!

with Ruaridh Hopkins , Lucy Ross, Scott Coulter, Fraser Moodie
Jack McKechnie 21/Aug/16 Sent dnf

Session number 5. Did it from the pinch but didn't have much skin or energy for the full thing. Top out went easily though.

with Scott Coulter, Angus Robb, David Miedzybrodzki, Fraser Moodie
Jack McKechnie 12/Jul/16 Sent dnf

Great session today, number 4. I climbed the whole thing to the top but was really pumped and messed up the top out! Need to match at the top and bring the left hand in to the right hand side of the triangular hold and rest my elbow on the top, then push up to the right hand side of the block. I used different foot beta at the start to go from the pinch matched to the flange with my left, I used the leftmost big hold for my left foot and the left hand starting hold for my right foot, seemed to work much more consistently than the leftmost hold and the triangular small nub. So close today!

with Roddy McKechnie
Jack McKechnie 25/Jun/16 Sent dnf

Very frustrated this morning, I wanted to do it too much and put too much pressure on it, need to relax more. Was consistently getting to the pinch but not being able to hold the flange with my left hand. Problem was that I was not pinching it but trying to just catch it with my front three. I also need to use the top of the left foothold not the side of it. Skin was also ruined, pretty sore to even climb, think I need to take a few days off and let it heal.

with Roddy McKechnie
Jack McKechnie 18/Jun/16 Sent dnf

Made good progress today, did it from the pinch and topper out but couldn't do it from the start today, maybe I was tired. Second session on it.

with Roddy McKechnie
Jack McKechnie 08/Jun/16 Sent dnf

First session. Did up to the pinch and matched it, couldn't pull through to the flange. Got a lift up and did the next two moves, too tired at that point to do the last one.

with Roddy McKechnie
Euan McFadyen ??/2014 -
Jonathan Bean 07/May/10 -

Awesome problem

with Jeans
Chris J Houston 30/Jun/09 Sent x

I don't know why more people don't try this problem using the pinch method. Its an absolute classic and my first 8a.... So psyched! Video at

with Jabs, Dave Houston, Steve and lots of randoms
willackers 05/Jun/09 Sent x

Yes!, My first font 8a, didn't feel right with the jam so worked it and crushed it the proper way!

with Ben Litster (sponsered climber)
Mike_mph 30/Nov/08 -
Stewart B 06/Apr/08 Sent x

There is new beta for this - instead of the pinch get a right hand finger lock just above this and pull through to the flange somewhat easier. New grade is around 7B+ as a result. Great to get such an amazing line done, even if a little diminished in stature.

with Johnny Stalking
Hidden ??/2007 Sent x
Cassidy ?/Jun/06 Sent x

first 8a (soft, just like me)

with Dave Redpath
Dave MacLeod 01/May/00 Sent x
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