900m, 10 pitches. One of the classic lines of Romsdalen. 900m of ice typically climbed in 10 pitches. Rock gear is reccommended. Avalanches are a significant danger in the upper part of the route where there is lots of snow. This is also the case for the descent routes.

P1 - WI2 or snow to the first ice ramp.
P2 - WI3 ice ramp, can be avoided by following a snow/ easy ice gully around to the left.
P3 - WI2 or snow up to the main wall of Ølmåa. Rock gear required for belay in the cave/sheltered area on the right.
P4 - WI4, 30/40 m, not hard but relatively sustained ice. Belay at a ledge.
P5 - WI4, Full 60 m pitch to reach the top of the main ice wall, again not hard but sustained.
P6 - WI3, full 60 m pitch.
P7 - WI3, full 60 m pitch. The last part ends at low angled ice or a snow slope (avalanche prone) seconds may need to move for the leader to reach good ice. It is advisable that in periods with lots of snow on the route that this snow patch is avoided and climbers trend to the left of the route and circumvent this part via the trees.
P8 - WI2/3 easy angled ice or snow.
P9 - WI3+ the upper steep section.
P10 - WI3+ or WI4 depending on conditions, belay at the top can be tricky if there is heavy snow.

Descent can be made via the ice if desired. Those retreating from P7 and below can traverse to the left of the route and use trees to rappel down to valley level. The walk off is northwards about 800 m over the high point and down a steep narrow gully, that opens into a wider valley and debris slope. This descent is avalanche prone.

Iver Gjelstenli & B?rge ?stig?rd 17/Feb/1980.

Feedback Always Hide βeta

1 users have logged this