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150m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 115m. Not climbed nearly as often as its famous neighbour, this route really deserves more attention. The climbing is more homogenous than on the Rébuffat-Pierre and the 6a crack pitch is immaculate. The route starts from the far left of the highest ledge, almost at the top of the snow slope leading to the Cosmiques Icefall.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the corner capped by an overhang. Upon reaching the overhang, cross the slab rightwards to reach right-slanting flakes above a notch. Follow these on good holds to reach a double bolt belay 5m below and left of a distinctive fin of rock which leads to the overhang.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb the crack which leads rightwards to the corner. Follow this before stepping out right onto the fin just before the overhang. From the top of the fin, a couple more metres of slabby climbing lead to a belay in a notch.
3) 6a, 20m. A shorter pitch but this is the one you want to lead! From the notch follow the blatantly obvious hand-jamming cracks which drift left to a ledge via some classic granite moves.
4) 5c, 35m. The crack continues above the ledge but is slightly more vague and the angle begins to kick back, with the climbing getting progressively easier as you go. Belay on the huge ledge at the top of the Éperon, taking care not to knock anything onto climbers below. From here, scramble up and leftwards easily to join the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitches:3, 5, 5+, 6a, 5+
Start up the gully to the left of the Eperon Face, then follow the obvious line to a big left facing corner and roof. Pull through this and climb the face and crack slightly left to the top. Sustained. Ab off or finish up the Cosmiques Arete.

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Joe Nunn 30 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: started from below gully with an easy pitch followed by a 6a/6b pitch to join the original route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: started from below gully with an easy pitch followed by a 6a/6b pitch to join the original route.
ebluemn 24 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Classic f****** hand crack? Pitch 3 is more like a #5 camalot offwidth. There are some ancient pins and bolts that are on the face adjacent to the crack if you decide to face climb, but the description is not even close to being correct.
 
Show beta
βeta: Classic f****** hand crack? Pitch 3 is more like a #5 camalot offwidth. There are some ancient pins and bolts that are on the face adjacent to the crack if you decide to face climb, but the description is not even close to being correct.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Yunghui 15 Sep, 2019 Lead dnf
with LAN
with LAN
markfairbank 16 Aug, 2019 Lead O/S Great route. Long time since I did the Rebuffat, but thought this was better. Climbed the face to the left of the off-width on the crux pitch like most people (i would think). Rockfax is right about it been immaculate, incorrect about hand jamming. Abbed back down and did the slog back to the Midi rather than climb with sacks.
Great route. Long time since I did the Rebuffat, but thought this was better. Climbed the face to the left of the off-width on the crux pitch like most people (i would think). Rockfax is right about it been immaculate, incorrect about hand jamming. Abbed back down and did the slog back to the Midi rather than climb with sacks.
Anne Fairbank 16 Aug, 2019 2nd
Tiktianc 5 Aug, 2019 AltLd O/S w/ Anthony
w/ Anthony
Jo sumner 25 Jul, 2019 2nd
steve_gibbs 16 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S
JohnHartley 16 Jul, 2019 AltLd O/S Quick evening ascent before bivvy
Quick evening ascent before bivvy
MissSmiley 10 Jul, 2019 -
John1458 3 Jul, 2019 AltLd Brilliant route, rockfax is wrong again! As others have said the crack is definitely not hand sized. Line of pitons just to the left gives fun but hard balancey climbing. Slipped out of crack on P1, definitely harder than P2. Joe lead 1,3,4 I lead 2. Finished up the cosmiques arete.
Brilliant route, rockfax is wrong again! As others have said the crack is definitely not hand sized. Line of pitons just to the left gives fun but hard balancey climbing. Slipped out of crack on P1, definitely harder than P2. Joe lead 1,3,4 I lead 2. Finished up the cosmiques arete.
Chuck 1 Jul, 2019 Lead
Joe Nunn ?Jul, 2019 2nd O/S
with Chuck
with Chuck
Rob_Morris1996 23 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S A dmm dragon 6 will rattle around uncammed inside that bad boy hand crack. Boscoe must have some big mitts...
with tghayne
A dmm dragon 6 will rattle around uncammed inside that bad boy hand crack. Boscoe must have some big mitts...
with tghayne
thierryfr 22 Jun, 2019 -
with David
with David
Petarghh 19 Jun, 2019 AltLd
mrbird 19 Jun, 2019 AltLd O/S
DigitalSteak 18 Jun, 2019 AltLd
Harry Ellis 18 Apr, 2019 AltLd Only led p4 after p1 shut me down. Handjamming is not the best way for me to start my trad season! P1 and 2 should have grades reversed. The rockfax description should have been written by someone who has actually done the route! P3 is not hand sized more head sized. fine pegged crack just to the left provides a more fitting start to the pitch. Great route and finishing up Cosmiques Arete makes a good finale
with Ted Ferguson
Only led p4 after p1 shut me down. Handjamming is not the best way for me to start my trad season! P1 and 2 should have grades reversed. The rockfax description should have been written by someone who has actually done the route! P3 is not hand sized more head sized. fine pegged crack just to the left provides a more fitting start to the pitch. Great route and finishing up Cosmiques Arete makes a good finale
with Ted Ferguson
Hidden 1 Apr, 2019 AltLd O/S
Ids1165 9 Oct, 2018 Lead
LucaC 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead the corner and 6a crack (which isn’t hand sized at all).
with John, Bede
Lead the corner and 6a crack (which isn’t hand sized at all).
with John, Bede
Hidden 6 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf
Hidden 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Jo sumner 22 Jul, 2018 2nd
DaveThexton 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Tim Bevan 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd Cracking acclimatisation climb.
Cracking acclimatisation climb.
Hidden 2 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Cam Bevan 28 Apr, 2018 Lead
TomGB ?Apr, 2018 2nd dog a 4 pitch E1 at 3300m was not an ideal re-introduction after not climbing for ages. Took a few rests and generally huffed and puffed.
a 4 pitch E1 at 3300m was not an ideal re-introduction after not climbing for ages. Took a few rests and generally huffed and puffed.
ollyalkema 1 Nov, 2017 -
with Gareth Hughes
with Gareth Hughes
janegallwey 17 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S great route
great route
MarcinK 29 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Leading all pitches, excellent rock, very mental climb and slightly less technical
with Charel Wohl
Leading all pitches, excellent rock, very mental climb and slightly less technical
with Charel Wohl
Just Will 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Luke Bounds
with Luke Bounds
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Sam McCarthy 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Wizzy
with Wizzy
lukegorman 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S cool
cool
JoeCoxson 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Amazing route on perfect granite. Had to do an extra pitch of about 5a/5b to get onto the face, as the snow level was so low and the couloir looked like a death trap. The first 5b pitch was stiff, and the pitch after was too easy for 5c- swap them over and the Rockfax grades are about right. Oh, and off-widthing skills are quite useful for the "obvious hand-jamming crack" ...
Amazing route on perfect granite. Had to do an extra pitch of about 5a/5b to get onto the face, as the snow level was so low and the couloir looked like a death trap. The first 5b pitch was stiff, and the pitch after was too easy for 5c- swap them over and the Rockfax grades are about right. Oh, and off-widthing skills are quite useful for the "obvious hand-jamming crack" ...
niallsash 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd
davkeo 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Really good climbing. Crux is most certainly not a hand crack !
Really good climbing. Crux is most certainly not a hand crack !
mchardski 26 Jun, 2017 2nd I lead 1st 2 pitches. our 1st pitch was improvised to avoid the gully which is way too dangerous to consider. the 2nd pitch had a really physical start then joined up with the guidebook 1st pitch. Top top climbing all the way.
with Sean Hendersen, seanhendo123
I lead 1st 2 pitches. our 1st pitch was improvised to avoid the gully which is way too dangerous to consider. the 2nd pitch had a really physical start then joined up with the guidebook 1st pitch. Top top climbing all the way.
with Sean Hendersen, seanhendo123
seanhendo123 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Alan
with Alan
markflanagan 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Fantastic route on some very course granite. The normal approach was spewing out rocks so had to do a pitch to get to the first belay. Most certainly not a blatantly obvious hand crack as you can get most of your body into it. At least for the first few metres. Best to link last 2 pitches for maximum enjoyment!
Fantastic route on some very course granite. The normal approach was spewing out rocks so had to do a pitch to get to the first belay. Most certainly not a blatantly obvious hand crack as you can get most of your body into it. At least for the first few metres. Best to link last 2 pitches for maximum enjoyment!
DigitalSteak 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
YellowFellow 29 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Finished by Arete des Cosmiques
with Jaime
Finished by Arete des Cosmiques
with Jaime
Hidden ?May, 2017 -
AnnaBacklund ?Sep, 2016 2nd
Ollie B 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with J.Williams
with J.Williams
Petarghh 8 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with nv
with nv
Hidden 8 Aug, 2016 AltLd dnf
Hidden 5 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Misha 24 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Good route. Acclimatisation for me, feeling it a bit but not too bad and didn't miss the lift down for a change so happy days! It snowed a fair bit the day before but we figured it would be ok as south facing and it turned out to be fine, just a bit of snow on a few of the large flat holds but the cracks were clear. Spencer led a pitch of V to the right of the gully (which looked chossy) to get to the start of the route in the Piola guide book. I then did a wandering pitch of 5+ featuring a couple of wide cracks, with the first being particularly evil. Spencer did the big corner pitch with exciting moves over the roof, again 5+. I finished with a long pitch to ledges just below the top of the eperon. This had an off width crack for first 20m or so and I actually had to do mild offwidthing for a few moves off the belay (which I was quite pleased by) before getting some face holds, after which I managed to stay out of the crack. Old skool HVS or perhaps E1. The other pitches were about HVS as well. Felt hard enough with a big rucksack! Topped out via the Cosmiques (easy scrambling towards the ridge got us to the first abseil). We pretty much moved together apart from the crux pitch, which Spencer did via the harder right hand crack to overtake people. Still took two hours from the top of the eperon. A good day out.
with Spencer
Good route. Acclimatisation for me, feeling it a bit but not too bad and didn't miss the lift down for a change so happy days! It snowed a fair bit the day before but we figured it would be ok as south facing and it turned out to be fine, just a bit of snow on a few of the large flat holds but the cracks were clear. Spencer led a pitch of V to the right of the gully (which looked chossy) to get to the start of the route in the Piola guide book. I then did a wandering pitch of 5+ featuring a couple of wide cracks, with the first being particularly evil. Spencer did the big corner pitch with exciting moves over the roof, again 5+. I finished with a long pitch to ledges just below the top of the eperon. This had an off width crack for first 20m or so and I actually had to do mild offwidthing for a few moves off the belay (which I was quite pleased by) before getting some face holds, after which I managed to stay out of the crack. Old skool HVS or perhaps E1. The other pitches were about HVS as well. Felt hard enough with a big rucksack! Topped out via the Cosmiques (easy scrambling towards the ridge got us to the first abseil). We pretty much moved together apart from the crux pitch, which Spencer did via the harder right hand crack to overtake people. Still took two hours from the top of the eperon. A good day out.
with Spencer
Martin Haworth 20 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S TD. Very good. Acclimatisation route that turned out harder than expected. http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/446734/fr/aiguille-du-midi-eperon-des-cosmiques-voie-guiffra-monaci
TD. Very good. Acclimatisation route that turned out harder than expected. http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/446734/fr/aiguille-du-midi-eperon-des-cosmiques-voie-guiffra-monaci
Hidden 16 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Brian Birtle 23 Jun, 2006 Lead dog Did the more direct variation with L'Affaire Electra (6b+) although aided past the crux of that pitch. Super day on the mountain, one of my best ever climbs!
with Martin
Did the more direct variation with L'Affaire Electra (6b+) although aided past the crux of that pitch. Super day on the mountain, one of my best ever climbs!
with Martin
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