UKC

150m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
II, 115m. Not climbed nearly as often as its famous neighbour, this route really deserves more attention. The climbing is more homogenous than on the Rébuffat-Pierre and the 6a crack pitch is immaculate. The route starts from the far left of the highest ledge, almost at the top of the snow slope leading to the Cosmiques Icefall.
1) 5b, 30m. Climb the corner capped by an overhang. Upon reaching the overhang, cross the slab rightwards to reach right-slanting flakes above a notch. Follow these on good holds to reach a double bolt belay 5m below and left of a distinctive fin of rock which leads to the overhang.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb the crack which leads rightwards to the corner. Follow this before stepping out right onto the fin just before the overhang. From the top of the fin, a couple more metres of slabby climbing lead to a belay in a notch.
3) 6a, 20m. A shorter pitch but this is the one you want to lead! From the notch follow the blatantly obvious hand-jamming cracks which drift left to a ledge via some classic granite moves.
4) 5c, 35m. The crack continues above the ledge but is slightly more vague and the angle begins to kick back, with the climbing getting progressively easier as you go. Belay on the huge ledge at the top of the Éperon, taking care not to knock anything onto climbers below. From here, scramble up and leftwards easily to join the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitches:3, 5, 5+, 6a, 5+
Start up the gully to the left of the Eperon Face, then follow the obvious line to a big left facing corner and roof. Pull through this and climb the face and crack slightly left to the top. Sustained. Ab off or finish up the Cosmiques Arete.


ClimberDateStyle
ollyalkema 01/Nov/17 -
with Gareth Hughes
janegallwey 17/Oct/17 Lead O/S

great route

MarcinK 29/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Leading all pitches, excellent rock, very mental climb and slightly less technical

with Charel Wohl
Hidden 26/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Wizzy 04/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

One of the best routes I've done! Led pitch 1 (tough HVS) and 3 (E1). Brilliant climbing all the way! As the previous comment says avoid the couloir

with Sam
Sam McCarthy 04/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with wizzy
lukegorman 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

cool

JoeCoxson 16/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Amazing route on perfect granite. Had to do an extra pitch of about 5a/5b to get onto the face, as the snow level was so low and the couloir looked like a death trap. The first 5b pitch was stiff, and the pitch after was too easy for 5c- swap them over and the Rockfax grades are about right. Oh, and off-widthing skills are quite useful for the "obvious hand-jamming crack" ...

niallsash 04/Jul/17 AltLd
davkeo 03/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Really good climbing. Crux is most certainly not a hand crack !

mchardski 26/Jun/17 2nd

I lead 1st 2 pitches. our 1st pitch was improvised to avoid the gully which is way too dangerous to consider. the 2nd pitch had a really physical start then joined up with the guidebook 1st pitch. Top top climbing all the way.

with Sean Hendersen, Sean Hendersen
seanhendo123 26/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Alan
markflanagan 17/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route on some very course granite. The normal approach was spewing out rocks so had to do a pitch to get to the first belay. Most certainly not a blatantly obvious hand crack as you can get most of your body into it. At least for the first few metres. Best to link last 2 pitches for maximum enjoyment!

DigitalSteak 10/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
AnnaBacklund ?/Sep/16 2nd
Ollie B 11/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with J.Williams
Hidden 08/Aug/16 AltLd dnf
ndraper1 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches- all styles in one an absolute must! Bit vague route finding with all the bolts and pitons so just followed the best ground!

Hidden 03/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Misha 24/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Good route. Acclimatisation for me, feeling it a bit but not too bad and didn't miss the lift down for a change so happy days! It snowed a fair bit the day before but we figured it would be ok as south facing and it turned out to be fine, just a bit of snow on a few of the large flat holds but the cracks were clear. Spencer led a pitch of V to the right of the gully (which looked chossy) to get to the start of the route in the Piola guide book. I then did a wandering pitch of 5+ featuring a couple of wide cracks, with the first being particularly evil. Spencer did the big corner pitch with exciting moves over the roof, again 5+. I finished with a long pitch to ledges just below the top of the eperon. This had an off width crack for first 20m or so and I actually had to do mild offwidthing for a few moves off the belay (which I was quite pleased by) before getting some face holds, after which I managed to stay out of the crack. Old skool HVS or perhaps E1. The other pitches were about HVS as well. Felt hard enough with a big rucksack! Topped out via the Cosmiques (easy scrambling towards the ridge got us to the first abseil). We pretty much moved together apart from the crux pitch, which Spencer did via the harder right hand crack to overtake people. Still took two hours from the top of the eperon. A good day out.

with Spencer
Martin Haworth 20/Jul/15 Lead O/S

TD. Very good. Acclimatisation route that turned out harder than expected. http://www.camptocamp.org/routes/446734/fr/aiguille-du-midi-eperon-des-cosmiques-voie-guiffra-monaci

tuukka 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Did the 6b+ variation (one pitch of l'affaire electra)

with Juha, Maija
Brian Birtle 23/Jun/06 Lead dog

Did the more direct variation with L'Affaire Electra (6b+) although aided past the crux of that pitch. Super day on the mountain, one of my best ever climbs!

with Martin
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