Rockfax Description
1) 6a, 2) 6a, 3) 5c, 4) 6a, 5) 6a, 6) 6b, 7) 6a, 8) 6a, 9) 6a+.
Together with La demande, this is the other great line of L'Escalès. Three wandering warm up pitches lead to a 200m crack-system. The climbing is physical and sustained at the grade and impressive, with blank grey walls and harder routes to either side. Though all belays are bolted, a rack of gear including some big stuff is essential! Many parties avoid the first 3 pitches by accessing the route from the Jardin des Ecureuils. In this case, from the base of Les dalles grises, traverse to the terrace 100m east, make two short abseils from a chain and tree to a narrow catwalk and the start of the crack system. For the whole thing start about 150m left of the base of the crack-line of La demande where a loose-looking orange pillar leads to a break in the long line of overhangs at 40m. Spiral up this, trending right through the overhangs. Loop left, then right to access the ledge below the upper corner - this can be split to avoid rope drag. Follow the corner resolutely to the top in six sustained pitches of never-ending jamming and bridging. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Parois-de-legende.

Hidden 03/Oct/17 AltLd dnf
stevorobs3 16/Oct/15 2nd O/S
ian d f 16/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Missed the first few pitches. Great route, would have liked a bit more trad gear, I thought it was bolted!

Graham Baxter 23/May/15 2nd

1st 7 pitches to get to Au Dela De Delire. Not bolted any more. Some bolts on first pitch. Need large cams.

with Alan Carne
Hidden 16/May/15 AltLd
stuart34 09/Apr/14 AltLd dnf

P 1 - 3? rained, got late went up the jardin then up something on the dalles grises

Hidden ?/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/May/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/12 -
Goucho ?/May/12 AltLd rpt
Jim Burton 04/Oct/11 -

Be aware that the bolts have been removed (Bolt belays remain) so take a good rack.

Hidden ?/Jun/11 -
stuart34 09/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P 1 - 3, 7

Hidden ??/2011 -
rob.s22 ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead most of it.

with N.A
Hidden 04/Aug/10 AltLd
Dave Searle ?/Aug/08 Lead
with jim
chiverstom 31/Mar/08 Lead O/S

First 4 pitches only

with Dave Turner
kingholmesy ??/2008 AltLd O/S

9 hours climbing - superb.

with Brian
Hidden 25/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Lurkio 25/Sep/07 -

Climb from the ground up if you can. If you abseil in you will miss the brilliant second pitch

with Paul W
Morgan Woods 26/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Excellent intro to Verdon. Abseiled in so skipped the first 2 pitches that start from the ground. Mostly solid laybacking and jamming all the way. Take a few nuts and cams.

with Alan Carney
Hidden 12/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
K1 ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd
Neil Ireson ?/Sep/02 AltLd
with Pete M
dan gibson ?/Oct/01 Lead O/S
with anthony prior
Les Ross ?/Jul/00 AltLd
with David Millar
Hidden ?/Sep/99 -
michael burrows 27/May/97 AltLd O/S

7 hours

with andy boorman
alpinist63 ??/1993 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/92 Lead O/S
Duncan I ?/Jun/91 -
with Mike Long
Hidden ??/1990 -
Alan James - UKC and UKH ?/Jun/87 Lead
with Tudor Griffiths
andy gittins ??/1986 -
Andy Nicholson ?/Apr/85 AltLd O/S
with Phil Robins
Hidden ??/1985 -
Neil McA 10/Sep/82 AltLd O/S
with Steve Andrews
Hidden ?/Aug/82 AltLd O/S
Nic Robinson 29/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
with Irish George
Falko ??/1982 AltLd O/S
with Alan Taylor
keefe ?/Aug/81 -
Hidden ??/1980 AltLd
duncan ?/Apr/79 AltLd dnf

Rescued from last pitch due to benightment

with Bob
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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set