UKC

180m, 5 pitches. Start on the ledge 45' right of the start of power failure below a varnished groove protected by 2 bolts. Climb the left hand of two cracks before moving left by the second bolt. Climb up to the top of the pillar (10c). Above the pillar set off up the thin left facing corner past 2 bolts. The corner quickly becomes off width but dubious face holds ease the struggle. A #5 Camalot will protect this section nicely. Climb past a rap anchor on the left to an anchor below a small roof (10a). Above this the route deteriorates into fairly hair raising 5.10+ climbing on flaky loose face. Bolts protect.

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Guidebooks for Juniper Canyon

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High 5.11a
Mid 5.11a
Low 5.11a
High 5.10d
Mid 5.10d
Low 5.10d
High 5.10c
Mid 5.10c
Low 5.10c
Route of Interest
Mustang Cracks

Grade: 5.10d ***
(Black Velvet Canyon)

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