UKC

2112m. Part of Øystre , Midtre go Vestre Torfinnstinden

Route description:

From Torfinnsbu mountain hut ascend the path up Torfinnsdalen until it is possible to traverse under the south face of Torfinnstinden. There are many broad boulder-filled gullies descending from the mountain; you are trying to locate the first mainly gully. Unfortunately, it isn’t so well defined when you walk under it. Slabs east of the gully indicate the start, and there is a possibility of a cairn or faded painted red T marks on the rock. If you locate a defined gully running down directly from the summit of Austre Torfinnstind you have gone too far. Ascend the easy slabs east of the gully until its possible to traverse diagonally up left into the gully proper. There are occasional faded red T makes on rocks on the way up. Continue up the gully to the top of the ridge. It might be necessary to use a rope on the last section, especially if it is wet. The rocks can be quite slippy at times. One alternative is as the gully steepens at the top to head west to a ridge overlooking the main central gully and climb this rib on good rock to the ridge.

1) Austre Torfinnstind to Midtre Torfinnstind: Scramble west along the ridge until it becomes steeper. A short 12m rappel brings you to a loose shelf that can be followed the notch between these two tops. Scramble up to the top of Midtre.

2) Midtre Torfinnstind to Vestre Torfinnstind: Between these two tops 3 abseils are required. 2 x abseils from Midtre, the first is a little diagonal to reach the ridge (grade 4 if you come the other way) again and the other required a little scrambling to an airy perch before the abseil is found. The third and the longest of all the abseils brings you to the bottom of another notch on the ridge. Scramble up Vestre.

Descent: After Vestre Torfinnstind head west first and the descend boulders and scree southwest until it is possible to traverse back under the mountain to Torfinnsbu.

ClimberDateStyle
Tuva Damskau 14/Aug Solo
Erling Heldaas 14/Aug Solo O/S
with Tuva Damskau, Hannah Husbyn
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