280m, 8 pitches.
A good climb up the attractive rib and pillar, starting low down in the White Tower gully.
Jean Males & Simon Destombes Feb/2016.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| dmurray | 6 Mar |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route: varied pitches including strenuous corner cracks, clean face climbing and runout easier sections. Mostly good rock but a few loose blocks, so standard mountain care required. Amazing views over the valley, far better than White Tower Original etc. Pitch beta: P1 Obvious left-facing corner crack, accessed by stepped ledges, at the left end of the ramp system. Tough but well protected P2 Spaced gear but easy scrambling up the ramp. Comfy belay amongst the vegetation. P3 Up a large block on the right, onto another very large ledge. Access the face by a bold right to left diagonal traverse, and then up just right of the arete, to belay on a stance just above some vegetation. P4 A glorious corner crack pitch. Very pleasant climbing. Once at the top of the crack, its best to continue up and right to set up the belay P5 The walking pitch. Very mild, unexposed scrambling to access the tunnel which is marked by a cairn. We pitched this and got the ropes stuck in the tunnel, so probably best to walk to ropes across. Tight squeeze. P6 Crux. There are maybe 4 potential crack lines, I looked at each and all on the right seem desperate. The left most line (high on the ramp, passing a large amount of vegetation) is the line - still fingery and not great gear to get off the ground. It is *left* of the most recognisable curving crack system, and joins this a few meters up. The excellent long bold traverse looks like it can be made at multiple levels. Care with rope work. P7 Step on top of the spike/block and traverse left around the arete out of sight. P8 We walked together towards the base of the black triangular bulge of rock, which has some nice steep cracks higher up. Approach from road: 1 hour. Time on the rock: 8 hours. Descent from the summit to the road (which goes via the base of the route): 1 hour | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Good route: varied pitches including strenuous corner cracks, clean face climbing and runout easier sections. Mostly good rock but a few loose blocks, so standard mountain care required. Amazing views over the valley, far better than White Tower Original etc. Pitch beta: P1 Obvious left-facing corner crack, accessed by stepped ledges, at the left end of the ramp system. Tough but well protected P2 Spaced gear but easy scrambling up the ramp. Comfy belay amongst the vegetation. P3 Up a large block on the right, onto another very large ledge. Access the face by a bold right to left diagonal traverse, and then up just right of the arete, to belay on a stance just above some vegetation. P4 A glorious corner crack pitch. Very pleasant climbing. Once at the top of the crack, its best to continue up and right to set up the belay P5 The walking pitch. Very mild, unexposed scrambling to access the tunnel which is marked by a cairn. We pitched this and got the ropes stuck in the tunnel, so probably best to walk to ropes across. Tight squeeze. P6 Crux. There are maybe 4 potential crack lines, I looked at each and all on the right seem desperate. The left most line (high on the ramp, passing a large amount of vegetation) is the line - still fingery and not great gear to get off the ground. It is *left* of the most recognisable curving crack system, and joins this a few meters up. The excellent long bold traverse looks like it can be made at multiple levels. Care with rope work. P7 Step on top of the spike/block and traverse left around the arete out of sight. P8 We walked together towards the base of the black triangular bulge of rock, which has some nice steep cracks higher up. Approach from road: 1 hour. Time on the rock: 8 hours. Descent from the summit to the road (which goes via the base of the route): 1 hour |
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Route of Interest
Bohemia
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Black Crag, Tazult)