Many prefer the slightly harder climbing here to the chaos of the Hornli ridge.

Bich/Carrel Jul/1865

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
walts4 20 Sep - Really dry, only needed crampons for the traverse to the Swiss summit. Quite serious in descent due to lack of either running belays or fixed equipment in the sections out with the ropes.
with Agnes
Really dry, only needed crampons for the traverse to the Swiss summit. Quite serious in descent due to lack of either running belays or fixed equipment in the sections out with the ropes.
with Agnes
Mike Bovill 16 Sep 2nd
chris cockbain 26 Aug AltLd O/S Great sport route... Pitched some of the steeper fixed ropes, moved together for the rest.12 hours carrel to carrel, climbing down was potentially more tricky than getting up. Stopped off at the Ar-boozey hut on the decent, ended up bivvy-ing again after a few beverages.
Great sport route... Pitched some of the steeper fixed ropes, moved together for the rest.12 hours carrel to carrel, climbing down was potentially more tricky than getting up. Stopped off at the Ar-boozey hut on the decent, ended up bivvy-ing again after a few beverages.
leeoftroy 17 Aug Lead O/S
oonagh thin 5 Jul AltLd
Adam.Watson 26 Sep, 2018 AltLd dnf
ChrisH89 26 Sep, 2018 AltLd dnf Reached Pic Tydall before deciding to descend. Didn't leave ourselves enough time to summit and then descend to the valley on the same day as originally planned and didn't have enough food (or money!) to stay in the Carrell hut another night. Still an amazing experience and one to return to next year!
Reached Pic Tydall before deciding to descend. Didn't leave ourselves enough time to summit and then descend to the valley on the same day as originally planned and didn't have enough food (or money!) to stay in the Carrell hut another night. Still an amazing experience and one to return to next year!
sroelants 25 Sep, 2018 -
Pero 10 Sep, 2018 AltLd Took advantage of late season perfect conditions. About 6 hours to summit and 5 hours to the Hornli hut.
Took advantage of late season perfect conditions. About 6 hours to summit and 5 hours to the Hornli hut.
Teshil 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf
with Emma Svenson
with Emma Svenson
jameslomax 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd [1/2] Walked and scrambled up to hut on Sunday. Climbed Monday morning, overtaking a fair few parties. Upper section with fixed ropes and ladders was chaos of parties going up and down over the top of each other. Moved together except where stuck behind others. [2/2 see summit log on ukh]
with Rich Ive
[1/2] Walked and scrambled up to hut on Sunday. Climbed Monday morning, overtaking a fair few parties. Upper section with fixed ropes and ladders was chaos of parties going up and down over the top of each other. Moved together except where stuck behind others. [2/2 see summit log on ukh]
with Rich Ive
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
george327 11 Aug, 2018 - Turned around at Pic Tyndall, a lot of lose rock, and snow covering bolts.
with Luke, Sam Davies
Turned around at Pic Tyndall, a lot of lose rock, and snow covering bolts.
with Luke, Sam Davies
SJPowderham1 10 Aug, 2018 -
Robertgiddy 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf Didn't venture above the hut after unexpected overnight snow, so perhaps "did not start" would be a better description of our attempt! A bit go-ape-like with all the ropes to pull on. Will be back!
with Butler!
Didn't venture above the hut after unexpected overnight snow, so perhaps "did not start" would be a better description of our attempt! A bit go-ape-like with all the ropes to pull on. Will be back!
with Butler!
Sam Husband 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd Mad first few hours being chased by the crowds then an enjoyable half climb/obstacle course up to summit at 8.30 (cold). Slow going on descent (Ed had no crampons as some people descending in fell running shoes had recommended this - bad idea!) back to hut at 4pm and then to the Pizzeria in Valtournache at 10.30pm. Awesome route and awesome place to be, but the mountain expereince is lost a bit with the crowds / ropes. Coffee shop felt good next day as it hammered with rain (1m of snow at 4000m meaning we'd grabbed the summit just in time).
with Stroppy
Mad first few hours being chased by the crowds then an enjoyable half climb/obstacle course up to summit at 8.30 (cold). Slow going on descent (Ed had no crampons as some people descending in fell running shoes had recommended this - bad idea!) back to hut at 4pm and then to the Pizzeria in Valtournache at 10.30pm. Awesome route and awesome place to be, but the mountain expereince is lost a bit with the crowds / ropes. Coffee shop felt good next day as it hammered with rain (1m of snow at 4000m meaning we'd grabbed the summit just in time).
with Stroppy
mikespooner 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Finally ticked this off the wishlist. Straightforward ascent, apart from the cold, minor routefinding issues and overtaking the circus on the way out of the hut. Absolutely worth it for the summit. Left the hut at 0415, summit around 0930, not back til the hut until 5pm. Long, grumpy slog back down, but the beers and pizza in Valtourneche tasted extra good that night.
with RKirke
Finally ticked this off the wishlist. Straightforward ascent, apart from the cold, minor routefinding issues and overtaking the circus on the way out of the hut. Absolutely worth it for the summit. Left the hut at 0415, summit around 0930, not back til the hut until 5pm. Long, grumpy slog back down, but the beers and pizza in Valtourneche tasted extra good that night.
with RKirke
Stroppy 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
RKirke 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
nutme 30 Aug, 2017 - Climbed with Catalina. Done it in two days spending a night in Carrel Rifugio and going down to Breuil-Cervinia on second day after climbing Matterhorn. We had single 60m rope, 5 quickdraws, 2 slings, 4 carabiners and crampons (had those on for about one hour in total). Decided to leave ice axes in car and it was a good call. It was late in season and hut wasn't to busy. About 45 people in total. Few were planning to go down in the morning after climbing a day before. About 12 guided parties and 5 (including us) unguided pairs. Guides were telling everyone in the evening they are starting at 5AM, but as it turned out they were lying and head off at 4. We started at 3 in the night with 2 other parties in front of us. Climbing up is very pleasant and not technical. We pitched only first chain near the hut. The rest we were moving together putting a runner here and where. Took us about 6 hours to get to the top with getting lost in one place and having guides behind us helped a lot. Guides generally solo all the way and down and drag clients on short leash belaying and lowering those in steep places. On going down we had rope jammed on rappel near the summit and i was already considering cutting of about 15 meters. Luck was in our side as i remembered reading about twisting technic to release rope. After that we very so paranoid about rappeling we ended up down climbing the rest of the route. With that epic it took us 6h30min to get back to hut and another 4h to reach town.
with Cata
Climbed with Catalina. Done it in two days spending a night in Carrel Rifugio and going down to Breuil-Cervinia on second day after climbing Matterhorn. We had single 60m rope, 5 quickdraws, 2 slings, 4 carabiners and crampons (had those on for about one hour in total). Decided to leave ice axes in car and it was a good call. It was late in season and hut wasn't to busy. About 45 people in total. Few were planning to go down in the morning after climbing a day before. About 12 guided parties and 5 (including us) unguided pairs. Guides were telling everyone in the evening they are starting at 5AM, but as it turned out they were lying and head off at 4. We started at 3 in the night with 2 other parties in front of us. Climbing up is very pleasant and not technical. We pitched only first chain near the hut. The rest we were moving together putting a runner here and where. Took us about 6 hours to get to the top with getting lost in one place and having guides behind us helped a lot. Guides generally solo all the way and down and drag clients on short leash belaying and lowering those in steep places. On going down we had rope jammed on rappel near the summit and i was already considering cutting of about 15 meters. Luck was in our side as i remembered reading about twisting technic to release rope. After that we very so paranoid about rappeling we ended up down climbing the rest of the route. With that epic it took us 6h30min to get back to hut and another 4h to reach town.
with Cata
K Mckay 29 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Paul Gibbison
with Paul Gibbison
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 -
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
JasonOneEye 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd Epic day out, long route, never hard climbing, but no protection at times.
with Tomas Walsh , Eogan O'Connell
Epic day out, long route, never hard climbing, but no protection at times.
with Tomas Walsh , Eogan O'Connell
Duncan 88 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd Up the Italian ridge and down the Hornli. Route finding tricky on the decent.
Up the Italian ridge and down the Hornli. Route finding tricky on the decent.
Hidden 13 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
CarlosTT 13 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with Roger
with Roger
Hidden 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Diego 21 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
Goran Glumac 2 Aug, 2016 Lead dnf Climbed after Pic Tyndall to the altitude of 4200m but turned around due to worsening weather. Like Grossglockner, too many people there.
Climbed after Pic Tyndall to the altitude of 4200m but turned around due to worsening weather. Like Grossglockner, too many people there.
Tim Sparrow 27 Jul, 2016 - DNF! Hideously overcrowded hut (as in maybe over 100 people - estimates range from 70 to 120!). Left at 7am long after the crowds and met most of them returning from Pic Tyndall as it was very icy, very cold and a strong NE wind made it quite unpleasant on the N side of the ridge. Added to this, the crowding on the ridge made it even more delicate, potentially dangerous. Hands numb. We followed suit just below Pic Tyndall, though a good few parties made the summit. Suspect these were the ones who made the very early start (2am ..) and well done them!
with Geoff Thomas
DNF! Hideously overcrowded hut (as in maybe over 100 people - estimates range from 70 to 120!). Left at 7am long after the crowds and met most of them returning from Pic Tyndall as it was very icy, very cold and a strong NE wind made it quite unpleasant on the N side of the ridge. Added to this, the crowding on the ridge made it even more delicate, potentially dangerous. Hands numb. We followed suit just below Pic Tyndall, though a good few parties made the summit. Suspect these were the ones who made the very early start (2am ..) and well done them!
with Geoff Thomas
Scott Quinn 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S set off after 5am lots of snow & ice very crowded one of two or three teams to summit out of about 20 - 15 hours hut to hut
set off after 5am lots of snow & ice very crowded one of two or three teams to summit out of about 20 - 15 hours hut to hut
Tom.Priestley 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Set off at first light, very snowy which made the going difficult and the whole thing much harder. Crampons on all the way. Very crowded with incompetent teams. 15hrs hut to hut. Took longer to come down than go up.
Set off at first light, very snowy which made the going difficult and the whole thing much harder. Crampons on all the way. Very crowded with incompetent teams. 15hrs hut to hut. Took longer to come down than go up.
eaf4 31 Aug, 2015 - Amazing day. Cracking weather, traversed the mountain and descended by Hornli.
with Brian Shackleton
Amazing day. Cracking weather, traversed the mountain and descended by Hornli.
with Brian Shackleton
danny269 21 Aug, 2015 AltLd recent snowfall and freezing conditions removed stonefall hazard but powder made for very slow going especially from Pic Tyndal. 15 hours from hut to summit and back again. Had the summit (8 hrs from hut) to ourselves for a bit as the first team to arrive (and no one from Swiss side around) although we left the hut last and 4 out of 6 teams turned back.
with Tom Golden
recent snowfall and freezing conditions removed stonefall hazard but powder made for very slow going especially from Pic Tyndal. 15 hours from hut to summit and back again. Had the summit (8 hrs from hut) to ourselves for a bit as the first team to arrive (and no one from Swiss side around) although we left the hut last and 4 out of 6 teams turned back.
with Tom Golden
andymcronald 16 Jul, 2015 2nd Stayed at a very full Carrel hut.
with Paulo Tombini
Stayed at a very full Carrel hut.
with Paulo Tombini
squicky 16 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S 1 day before the 150th anniversary! Lots of climbers, most of them slow on the route and high winds so only stayed a couple of minutes at the summit. Climbing was continously interesting but didn't seem to feel like I'd climbed an awesome, iconic mountain. Maybe need to do the Hörnli now?
1 day before the 150th anniversary! Lots of climbers, most of them slow on the route and high winds so only stayed a couple of minutes at the summit. Climbing was continously interesting but didn't seem to feel like I'd climbed an awesome, iconic mountain. Maybe need to do the Hörnli now?
jamieevans 15 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
niw44 15 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S 1 day after the 150th Anniversary of the 1st ascent. Excellent conditions, sunny, light winds. Because the mountain was closed on the 14th we had to start at the Abruzzi refuge, 9hrs to the top. Only 1 route finding error, after the chain up from the Carrel and rope climb in corner, climb gulley to ridge height and traverse high ledges to snowpatch and wire.
1 day after the 150th Anniversary of the 1st ascent. Excellent conditions, sunny, light winds. Because the mountain was closed on the 14th we had to start at the Abruzzi refuge, 9hrs to the top. Only 1 route finding error, after the chain up from the Carrel and rope climb in corner, climb gulley to ridge height and traverse high ledges to snowpatch and wire.
Sean_J 22 Aug, 2014 AltLd Very snowy conditions, and a distinct lack of pro. Lots of knife edge ridges, and winds gusting up to about 60. Exciting! An excellent route.
with Tim
Very snowy conditions, and a distinct lack of pro. Lots of knife edge ridges, and winds gusting up to about 60. Exciting! An excellent route.
with Tim
Dan Hale 13 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Chose this hoping to avoid the 'chaos of the Hornli ridge', however, we still encountered plenty of punters. At one point a guy abseiled onto the shoulders of me and 2 guides. He then became frenzied and repeatedly kicked us the shoulders with his crampons before jumping onto my rope. Overall there was a generally hysterical atmosphere on the mountain. This was down to the large numbers of guided teams who turned back due to ice on the route and abseiled n top of other teams, getting ropes tangled and dropping rocks. The Zinalrothorn was much better and the people we encountered more friendly and considerate. The fixed ropes are indeed a shame and actually make some of the climbing harder as they are blocking the holds.
with BenRyle
Chose this hoping to avoid the 'chaos of the Hornli ridge', however, we still encountered plenty of punters. At one point a guy abseiled onto the shoulders of me and 2 guides. He then became frenzied and repeatedly kicked us the shoulders with his crampons before jumping onto my rope. Overall there was a generally hysterical atmosphere on the mountain. This was down to the large numbers of guided teams who turned back due to ice on the route and abseiled n top of other teams, getting ropes tangled and dropping rocks. The Zinalrothorn was much better and the people we encountered more friendly and considerate. The fixed ropes are indeed a shame and actually make some of the climbing harder as they are blocking the holds.
with BenRyle
BenRyle 13 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Michael 26 Jul, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
Stuart Johnston 18 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Great climbing ruined by fixed ropes. Get to the Carrel hut early if you want a bed. It was full be about 1pm when we climbed. Route finding can be tricky in the dark so don't start too early. That said if you are going down the Hornli (which is tedious and exceptionally long) don't underestimate the time required to get down to the lift (7h ish).
with Misha Gopaul
Great climbing ruined by fixed ropes. Get to the Carrel hut early if you want a bed. It was full be about 1pm when we climbed. Route finding can be tricky in the dark so don't start too early. That said if you are going down the Hornli (which is tedious and exceptionally long) don't underestimate the time required to get down to the lift (7h ish).
with Misha Gopaul
James Gordon ?Aug, 2012 -
Jim Brownlow 20 Aug, 2011 AltLd Brilliant ascent, couldn't have done it without Bradders. Descent brutal, three times as long. Had an unplanned bivvy. Glad I bought the bivvy bag, unlike Bradders!
Brilliant ascent, couldn't have done it without Bradders. Descent brutal, three times as long. Had an unplanned bivvy. Glad I bought the bivvy bag, unlike Bradders!
Hidden 20 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S What a mountain! Descended Hornli. Been on list for ages. Bit annoying to have all the fixed ropes there, Zmutt probably a nicer experience overall.
with Paul Mann
What a mountain! Descended Hornli. Been on list for ages. Bit annoying to have all the fixed ropes there, Zmutt probably a nicer experience overall.
with Paul Mann
Cham32 ?Aug, 2011 - Wanted to do the Zmutt but the approach from the Hornli was out. Approach as hard work in v hot conditions as you can see the hut all the way up pretty much. left hut at 3.30 and summited at just before 8 - tried to avoid all the fixed ropes/chains apart bfrom the ladder just below the summit. Descent took 5 hrs and then we found that the lift back from Plateau Rosa wa closed, so walked all the way back to Cervinia that night from Kl Matterhorn station! feet and knees compeltely shot!
Wanted to do the Zmutt but the approach from the Hornli was out. Approach as hard work in v hot conditions as you can see the hut all the way up pretty much. left hut at 3.30 and summited at just before 8 - tried to avoid all the fixed ropes/chains apart bfrom the ladder just below the summit. Descent took 5 hrs and then we found that the lift back from Plateau Rosa wa closed, so walked all the way back to Cervinia that night from Kl Matterhorn station! feet and knees compeltely shot!
stevev 5 Sep, 2010 2nd dnf Turned back at Carrel Hut. Suffered big asthma problems on first day. Made it to the hut, but didn't really recover overnight.
Turned back at Carrel Hut. Suffered big asthma problems on first day. Made it to the hut, but didn't really recover overnight.
chrissloan84 ?Aug, 2010 -
with paul
with paul
Julli 19 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf Had to turn back at 4100m due to one climber feeling sick
with Noora S.
Had to turn back at 4100m due to one climber feeling sick
with Noora S.
Adi Hooper 18 Jul, 2010 AltLd Left the Carrel Hut at 4.30am. Got to the Italian summit at 11.30am. Moving together all the time.
with Roger Ward
Left the Carrel Hut at 4.30am. Got to the Italian summit at 11.30am. Moving together all the time.
with Roger Ward
garethsteel ?Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
SteveK 14 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Nigel R Lewis 14 Aug, 2009 AltLd
with Steve Kedward
with Steve Kedward
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 -
colenn 4 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S First known ascent of the ridge that season.
with Peter Britton, aennis
First known ascent of the ridge that season.
with Peter Britton, aennis
aennis 4 Jul, 2009 -
with Peter Britton, Colm Ennis
with Peter Britton, Colm Ennis
Guy Wilson ?Aug, 2008 -
with Byron Buck
with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus ?Aug, 2008 - Fantastic route and perfect weather
Fantastic route and perfect weather
Mark Walter ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Steve Becwith
with Steve Becwith
benclimbing ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Awesome climb. Loads of fixed gear including a ladder! Didn't place a single peice of gear. Descended the Hornli Ridge. Downclimbed the whole way
Awesome climb. Loads of fixed gear including a ladder! Didn't place a single peice of gear. Descended the Hornli Ridge. Downclimbed the whole way
tom.e 14 Jul, 2006 - Turned back about 150m short of the summit.
with Charlie Everett
Turned back about 150m short of the summit.
with Charlie Everett
lost.arrow 10 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
with Stu Sherwood
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2006 Lead Classic traverse, brilliant. Carry water to Carell from slabs on approach
with Pete Brownsell
Classic traverse, brilliant. Carry water to Carell from slabs on approach
with Pete Brownsell
Hidden 30 Jul, 2005 AltLd
Hidden 12 Aug, 2004 AltLd dnf
tom.e ?Aug, 2004 Solo dnf Got to the hut, snowed overnight so we retreated.
with Charlie Everett
Got to the hut, snowed overnight so we retreated.
with Charlie Everett
ashpreston ??, 2004 AltLd dnf Evacuated by helicopter from Carrel after four nights.
Evacuated by helicopter from Carrel after four nights.
Hidden 22 Oct, 2003 AltLd
Hidden 12 Aug, 2003 -
apollo18 ?Jul, 2002 AltLd Up the Italian and down the Hornli from the Carrel.
Up the Italian and down the Hornli from the Carrel.
Hidden 1 Sep, 1999 Lead O/S
gallonj ??, 1996 - Up Italian Ridge - down Hornli ridge
Up Italian Ridge - down Hornli ridge
Stefan Jacobsen ??, 1996 AltLd
with Kåre Jacobsen
with Kåre Jacobsen
Hidden 20 Aug, 1992 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 1991 -
Tim Sparrow ?Aug, 1991 - Wore KSBs, no crampons, single axe unused. Had a hoot. Parachutists dropping into Breuil viewed fro summit - one parachute failure and emergency chute descent! LS went up this, down Hornli, up Zmutt, down this all in one day.
with ChrisJD
Wore KSBs, no crampons, single axe unused. Had a hoot. Parachutists dropping into Breuil viewed fro summit - one parachute failure and emergency chute descent! LS went up this, down Hornli, up Zmutt, down this all in one day.
with ChrisJD
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