Many prefer the slightly harder climbing here to the chaos of the Hornli ridge.

Bich/Carrel Jul/1865

Sam Husband 08/Sep/17 AltLd

Mad first few hours being chased by the crowds then an enjoyable half climb/obstacle course up to summit at 8.30 (cold). Slow going on descent (Ed had no crampons as some people descending in fell running shoes had recommended this - bad idea!) back to hut at 4pm and then to the Pizzeria in Valtournache at 10.30pm. Awesome route and awesome place to be, but the mountain expereince is lost a bit with the crowds / ropes. Coffee shop felt good next day as it hammered with rain (1m of snow at 4000m meaning we'd grabbed the summit just in time).

with Ed
mikespooner 08/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Finally ticked this off the wishlist. Straightforward ascent, apart from the cold, minor routefinding issues and overtaking the circus on the way out of the hut. Absolutely worth it for the summit. Left the hut at 0415, summit around 0930, not back til the hut until 5pm. Long, grumpy slog back down, but the beers and pizza in Valtourneche tasted extra good that night.

Stroppy 08/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
RKirke 08/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
nutme 30/Aug/17 -

Climbed with Catalina. Done it in two days spending a night in Carrel Rifugio and going down to Breuil-Cervinia on second day after climbing Matterhorn. We had single 60m rope, 5 quickdraws, 2 slings, 4 carabiners and crampons (had those on for about one hour in total). Decided to leave ice axes in car and it was a good call. It was late in season and hut wasn't to busy. About 45 people in total. Few were planning to go down in the morning after climbing a day before. About 12 guided parties and 5 (including us) unguided pairs. Guides were telling everyone in the evening they are starting at 5AM, but as it turned out they were lying and head off at 4. We started at 3 in the night with 2 other parties in front of us. Climbing up is very pleasant and not technical. We pitched only first chain near the hut. The rest we were moving together putting a runner here and where. Took us about 6 hours to get to the top with getting lost in one place and having guides behind us helped a lot. Guides generally solo all the way and down and drag clients on short leash belaying and lowering those in steep places. On going down we had rope jammed on rappel near the summit and i was already considering cutting of about 15 meters. Luck was in our side as i remembered reading about twisting technic to release rope. After that we very so paranoid about rappeling we ended up down climbing the rest of the route. With that epic it took us 6h30min to get back to hut and another 4h to reach town.

with Cata
K Mckay 29/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Paul Gibbison
Hidden 06/Aug/17 -
JasonOneEye 03/Aug/17 AltLd

Epic day out, long route, never hard climbing, but no protection at times.

with Tomas Walsh , Eogan O'Connell
Duncan 88 13/Jul/17 AltLd

Up the Italian ridge and down the Hornli. Route finding tricky on the decent.

Hidden 13/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/17 AltLd
Tim Sparrow 27/Jul/16 -

DNF! Hideously overcrowded hut (as in maybe over 100 people - estimates range from 70 to 120!). Left at 7am long after the crowds and met most of them returning from Pic Tyndall as it was very icy, very cold and a strong NE wind made it quite unpleasant on the N side of the ridge. Added to this, the crowding on the ridge made it even more delicate, potentially dangerous. Hands numb. We followed suit just below Pic Tyndall, though a good few parties made the summit. Suspect these were the ones who made the very early start (2am ..) and well done them!

with Geoff Thomas
Scott Quinn 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

set off after 5am lots of snow & ice very crowded one of two or three teams to summit out of about 20 - 15 hours hut to hut

eaf4 31/Aug/15 -

Amazing day. Cracking weather, traversed the mountain and descended by Hornli.

with Brian Shackleton
danny269 21/Aug/15 AltLd

recent snowfall and freezing conditions removed stonefall hazard but powder made for very slow going especially from Pic Tyndal. 15 hours from hut to summit and back again. Had the summit (8 hrs from hut) to ourselves for a bit as the first team to arrive (and no one from Swiss side around) although we left the hut last and 4 out of 6 teams turned back.

with Tom Golden
andymcronald 16/Jul/15 2nd

Stayed at a very full Carrel hut.

with Paulo Tombini
squicky 16/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

1 day before the 150th anniversary! Lots of climbers, most of them slow on the route and high winds so only stayed a couple of minutes at the summit. Climbing was continously interesting but didn't seem to feel like I'd climbed an awesome, iconic mountain. Maybe need to do the Hörnli now?

niw44 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S

1 day after the 150th Anniversary of the 1st ascent. Excellent conditions, sunny, light winds. Because the mountain was closed on the 14th we had to start at the Abruzzi refuge, 9hrs to the top. Only 1 route finding error, after the chain up from the Carrel and rope climb in corner, climb gulley to ridge height and traverse high ledges to snowpatch and wire.

Sean_J 22/Aug/14 AltLd

Very snowy conditions, and a distinct lack of pro. Lots of knife edge ridges, and winds gusting up to about 60. Exciting! An excellent route.

with Tim
Dan724 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Chose this hoping to avoid the 'chaos of the Hornli ridge', however, we still encountered plenty of punters. At one point a guy abseiled onto the shoulders of me and 2 guides. He then became frenzied and repeatedly kicked us the shoulders with his crampons before jumping onto my rope. Overall there was a generally hysterical atmosphere on the mountain. This was down to the large numbers of guided teams who turned back due to ice on the route and abseiled n top of other teams, getting ropes tangled and dropping rocks. The Zinalrothorn was much better and the people we encountered more friendly and considerate. The fixed ropes are indeed a shame and actually make some of the climbing harder as they are blocking the holds.

BenRyle 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Dan
Michael 26/Jul/13 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Stuart Johnston 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Great climbing ruined by fixed ropes. Get to the Carrel hut early if you want a bed. It was full be about 1pm when we climbed. Route finding can be tricky in the dark so don't start too early. That said if you are going down the Hornli (which is tedious and exceptionally long) don't underestimate the time required to get down to the lift (7h ish).

with Misha Gopaul
Jim Brownlow 20/Aug/11 AltLd

Brilliant ascent, couldn't have done it without Bradders. Descent brutal, three times as long. Had an unplanned bivvy. Glad I bought the bivvy bag, unlike Bradders!

Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

What a mountain! Descended Hornli. Been on list for ages. Bit annoying to have all the fixed ropes there, Zmutt probably a nicer experience overall.

with Paul Mann
Cham32 ?/Aug/11 -

Wanted to do the Zmutt but the approach from the Hornli was out. Approach as hard work in v hot conditions as you can see the hut all the way up pretty much. left hut at 3.30 and summited at just before 8 - tried to avoid all the fixed ropes/chains apart bfrom the ladder just below the summit. Descent took 5 hrs and then we found that the lift back from Plateau Rosa wa closed, so walked all the way back to Cervinia that night from Kl Matterhorn station! feet and knees compeltely shot!

stevev 05/Sep/10 2nd dnf

Turned back at Carrel Hut. Suffered big asthma problems on first day. Made it to the hut, but didn't really recover overnight.

chrissloan84 ?/Aug/10 -
with paul
Julli 19/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Had to turn back at 4100m due to one climber feeling sick

with Noora S.
Adi Hooper 18/Jul/10 AltLd

Left the Carrel Hut at 4.30am. Got to the Italian summit at 11.30am. Moving together all the time.

with Roger Ward
garethsteel ?/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
SteveK 14/Aug/09 AltLd
Nigel R Lewis 14/Aug/09 AltLd
with Steve Kedward
AdamCB ?/Aug/09 -

With Rick Marchant, Tim Rickeard and Paul Warnock

colenn 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

First known ascent of the ridge that season.

with Peter Britton, Aidan Ennis
aennis 04/Jul/09 -
with Peter Britton, Colm Ennis
Guy Wilson ?/Aug/08 -
with Byron Buck
Byronius Maximus ?/Aug/08 -

Fantastic route and perfect weather

Mark Walter ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Becwith
benclimbing ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Awesome climb. Loads of fixed gear including a ladder! Didn't place a single peice of gear. Descended the Hornli Ridge. Downclimbed the whole way

Nicos 26/Jul/07 Lead O/S
tom.e 14/Jul/06 -

Turned back about 150m short of the summit.

with Charlie Everett
lost.arrow 10/Jul/06 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
Hidden ?/Jul/06 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/05 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/04 AltLd dnf
tom.e ?/Aug/04 Solo dnf

Got to the hut, snowed overnight so we retreated.

with Charlie Everett
ashpreston ??/2004 AltLd dnf

Evacuated by helicopter from Carrel after four nights.

Hidden 22/Oct/03 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/03 -
stugreen75 ?/Jul/02 AltLd

Up the Italian and down the Hornli from the Carrel.

Hidden 01/Sep/99 Lead O/S
estivoautumnal ?/Aug/96 Solo

Bivvied close to the Hornli hut and traversed the East face around 5.00am to avoid stonefall. After watching the sunrise it was an easy walk to the start of the Italian Ridge under the South face. Made the hut for lunchtime (deserted) and then climbed the ridge to the summit. Saw no one on the ridge all day. Bivvied on the summit and descended the Hornli ridge. Passed a few climbers with guides on way down (5 teams) but all in all it was pretty quiet.

gallonj ??/1996 -

Up Italian Ridge - down Hornli ridge

Stefan Jacobsen ??/1996 AltLd
with Kåre Jacobsen
Hidden 20/Aug/92 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/91 -
Tim Sparrow ?/Aug/91 -

Wore KSBs, no crampons, single axe unused. Had a hoot. Parachutists dropping into Breuil viewed fro summit - one parachute failure and emergency chute descent! LS went up this, down Hornli, up Zmutt, down this all in one day.

with Chris D
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