UKC

107m, 4 pitches. It climbs the seaward face of the Leaning Pinnacles from the boulder beach. An Alpine-style adventure with more than its fair share of loose rock.
1) 4c, 45m. Climb the obvious smooth groove then trend left over easier unprotected loose slabs. It is safest to approach the belay from the left. Belay on a spike at the base of Off Width His Head. It might be prudent to seek a safer stance further left to protect the belayer from potential rockfall.
2) 5b, 22m. Step up right onto the flat ledge. Move up and place gear in the crack on the left before spanning right to an offwidth crack. Make bold moves up this to good gear at a steepening, then break right onto a slab. Carefully pick your way through the loose rock to a ledge composed of loose rocks. Step left to a wide crack and make committing moves up the wall immediately to its left to arrive at a good belay stance.
3) 4a, 20m. As for Off Width His Head.
4) 4a, 20m. As for Off Width His Head.

FA. P.Saunders, B.Hannon 20/Feb/2018.

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Route of Interest
The Dream/Liberator

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Great Zawn)

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