UKC

97m, 3 pitches. It doesn't get more exposed for the grade! Ridiculous position, big jugs, lots of bolts and fabulous rock. 60m rope (minimum!) & 25+ quickdraws, some of them long.

Start: The abseil into the route starts at rap chain on northern rocky outcrop. Referring to topo will help with working out how to make it down! You will need at minimum single 60m rope to make it down. First rap is aprox 30m down small cliff, vegetated slope then slabby arete to double rings on small ledge. Next rap is 15m down to double rap rings in slot and comfortable ledge. Final rap is 25m straight down corner, swinging slightly right to HANGING belay on double rings right on lip of giant roof on right side of subtle arete (refer to topo). You may want to clip a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the overhung wall.

20m (20) From hanging belay, climb up for one bolt, then traverse left for a couple of hard moves to reach small ledge. Traverse this amazing exposed ledge on yummy orange rock for 20m to small sandy stance and double ring belay. Bring prussics in case you fall off! 8 bolts.

58m (23) An epic pitch. Left and up stunning orange rock (ignore horizontal line of bolts - that is Sublimated) eventually reaching the proud arĂȘte. Keep plodding up this juggy prow on the right side to small ledge at 45m. Swing onto juggy left side of arete and finish up slabby dirty grey stuff. At big ledge do last tricky mantle to gain belay ledge. If using a 60m rope, don't waste any rope in the belay or you won't make it! 22 bolts (consider a few long runners).

14m (14) Easily up juggy exposed face to top ledge. 3 bolts.

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Route of Interest
The Sublime and the Beautiful

Grade: 22 ***
(Sublime Point)

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