UKC

18m. Climb the left-most slab on the face to a thin crack. Go up this to a ramp slanting up R. Use this to circumvent the overhang, move up the groove and step left above the overhang to finish. The overhang direct is juggy but not recommended as the block/shelf below it (above the ramp) is very loose and would be hard to avoid.

H. Walmsley, C. Calow 21/May/2018.

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User Date Notes
Glyn Davies 4 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: My lead was terminated after a large block (shoe box size) came off in my hand as I pulled on it. I was able to hold it just long enough for my belayer to rapidly move away from the trajectory but as this block careered down the face it shattered sending shrapnel everywhere. A very scary moment. This was after Bolt 5 as you start the rightward move onto the ramp. I suspect this was an important hold to make that move. The whole ramp section was saturated and really greasy too, and under the block was soil so this has been building for a while. After this scary moment I retreated off the route, unable to trust that section.
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βeta: My lead was terminated after a large block (shoe box size) came off in my hand as I pulled on it. I was able to hold it just long enough for my belayer to rapidly move away from the trajectory but as this block careered down the face it shattered sending shrapnel everywhere. A very scary moment. This was after Bolt 5 as you start the rightward move onto the ramp. I suspect this was an important hold to make that move. The whole ramp section was saturated and really greasy too, and under the block was soil so this has been building for a while. After this scary moment I retreated off the route, unable to trust that section.

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