4 pitches. This is a pleasant, multi-pitch sport climb with several very short crux sections and moderate slab climbing in between. Good belay stances and good anchors for belaying and rappelling make this an excellent first multi-pitch climb. The FA party rated this 10b, but for someone of 6'2", -1 ape factor, it's 5.9. There are a couple of spots where reach might make a difference.

Approach: This route is on the left edge of the Upper East Face of East Blob Rock. See the beta photo for Blob Rock. East Blob is the formation on the right of the photo with the pointed top. The route starts a short ways up the gully that runs up and right along the base of East Blob. Walk up the trail to the base of the gully that separates Blob Rock from East Blob. Walk down and right along the base of Blob Slab and up to the base of the Upper East Face of East Blob. The route starts left of a dead tree with no branches, just left of where the wall starts to overhang right off the ground. The tree is just left of a large boulder near the wall. The climb angles left and then back right below a prominent large orange buttress at the top of the cliff.

The route: Bolt counts and pitch lengths are approximate. Pitches 1 and 2 can be combined. Pitches 3 and 4 might be combined, but there may be rope drag.

P1: Starting at a thin crack that angles slightly right, climb a steep face and then move left to an easy slab and the belay. 5.9, 7 bolts, 80'.

P2: Angle left on easy ground to a short steep wall which is climbed at 5.9 if you can reach the hold. The FA party calls this 10b, and it may be that hard if you are short. 5 bolts. 60'.

P3: There are two variations to pitch 3. Since I was self-belaying, I climbed the left variation on the lead and the right variation when I cleaned the pitch. The left variation is better and goes over a bulge at 5.9 to a slab. The right variation climbs a dirty right facing corner and is harder. The start, which looks hard, is easy. The top, which looks easy, is hard and involves flared hand jams. Where the variations join, make an interesting 5.9 move into a right facing right leaning corner and up to a ledge. 9 bolts, 90'.

P4: Angle right on a fun 5.8 slab and up easier rock to the top anchors. 8 bolts, 70'.
First Ascent: Vaino Kodas, Mark Rolofson, 2003

There are multiple ways to rap along this part of the cliff. With a 70m rope you can combine the pitch 2 and 3 rappels or the pitch 1 and 2 rappels. The rap to the right might be more efficient and can be done in two raps with a 60m. You can also walk off to the right and down the gully to the east.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
RebeccaPickles 4 Jul AltLd O/S
with Brant Rumberger
with Brant Rumberger
Hidden 15 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 24 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 24 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P1 and 3. 5.9+ in the local guidebook. Really fun climb. You can do the abseil in one with a pair of 60m ropes.
with j_duds
Led P1 and 3. 5.9+ in the local guidebook. Really fun climb. You can do the abseil in one with a pair of 60m ropes.
with j_duds
Francescaparratt 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Voting
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1