33m.
A quality variation to Optimism with good climbing and positions. Probably a little easier than Optimism. You need to be be very careful to avoid rope drag. Climb through the first crux of Optimism. After the 4th bolt move up then L across the slab passing a triangular hold to a small foothold on the arete. Gain the groove in the R side of the arete and climb it to a small ledge. Mantle this to gain a big ledge. Trend up and R to rejoin Optimism and follow it past the R end of the big overhang. Take Optimism Direct Finish until it moves R onto the arete then continue up the groove to a lower-off on the L. A 60 m rope gets you down although you may need to unclip the runners at the R hand limits of the climbing (FA of final groove D Lyons 25/5/2018 as a variation finish to Optimism, FA of the the rest as below)
H. Walmsley, C. Calow 29/May/2018.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| harold walmsley | 3 Mar, 2022 |
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βeta: Take several long slings and use them judiciously or the rope drag will be terminal.. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Take several long slings and use them judiciously or the rope drag will be terminal.. |
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Route of Interest
Last of the Summer Wine
Grade: 6c ***
(Tyddyn Hywel Quarry)