Rockfax Description
II, 120m. A less travelled route than the others described here but a very worthwhile outing, the East Face makes for a good alternative when the more famous routes of the area are busy. Start at the bergschrund of the snow slope immediately right of the Éperon des Cosmiques. This snow slope is directly below the abseils of the Arête des Cosmiques and there is often some rockfall danger (both natural and man made) so it's a good idea to climb the first pitch in big boots and then change into rock shoes before pitch 2, just to minimise time spent in the line of fire! Start 3m right of the rusty old ladder.
1) 4b, 15m. From the bergschrund, climb diagonally up and left across straightforward blocky ground to reach a belay 5m below an electricity pylon (with tens of thousands of volts running through it powering the Midi cable car), beneath a right-leaning corner and crack.
2) 4b, 60m. Follow the corner and crack via some excellent moderate climbing to a ledge below a roof.
3) 5c/A0, 20m. Climb the overhanging roof using direct aid on bolts. If the bolts have been removed (as they are sporadically) there is a large, helpful crack and even those lacking in aid climbing experience should be able to get through this section with a few cams, slings and plenty of determination. Above the overhang, the crack continues with some difficulty to a ledge beneath another roof.
4) 5b, 30m. Move left for 2m before climbing the stunning right-leaning corner with increasing difficulty to reach a deep notch, close to the summit of the Éperon.
5) 4a, 50m. Climb the ramp leading up and left to the top of the Éperon and from here, either abseil the route (watch out for the power cables...) or scramble up to join the Arête des Cosmiques. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitches of 5, 4+, 4-, roof at A0, then 5, 4-, 5, 3+. In situ bolts and belays mean that the route can be abseiled and bags left at the bottom as an alternative to finishing up cosmiques arete. Care must be taken with the live power lines which provide 15,000v to/from the telepherique.

Chavasse/Leroux Jul/1971.

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