UKC

Rockfax Description
One of the great Welsh mountain HVSs and a route finding masterpiece. The line takes the clean elongated rib that soars up the crag on its most continuous section of rock. The climbing and the rock are both good but the route needs a long dry spell to come into condition.
1) 5a, 24m. Use a jammed block to gain a niche and exit this via some hard moves up a crack to a sloping ledge above. Go left into a groove and climb it and grassy ledges above to a belay on a very large ledge.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb slabby rock to a spike on the arete under an overhang. Move right around the arete and climb a crack until the arete can be accessed again at a ledge below a bulge. Pull over the bulge and climb up a groove to a belay at a block.
3) 4b, 15m. Go left and up the arete to the finishing ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Marti999 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Debbie
George_Surf 21/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Approach is ok now there's a path Direct; 40 mins. Last bit up vertical vegetation is pretty savage. P1 is hard leaving the niche. Some run out bits to the massive belay ledge. P2 I cleaned and brushed like mad on lead. Again, seemed bold. Jammed block belay not obvious until I was on it. Most of the groove is lost to vegetation I pulled a lot of. Rachel led top pitch up the arête. The holds you need are now clean, there's some gear, and the a few steep pulls on bull rush to the ab station/ belay. Cleaned Voi Suisse on the way down, looked good. Climbing is alrigh just a shame about the dirt. It's better than it was now!

rachelpearce01 21/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
foostu4 17/Jun/17 Lead O/S

If you can look past the lichen, vegetation and general dirt on the route this is a fantastic line with a lot of great climbing! A great adventure

cymjt 25/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

A good old adventure! NEW ABSEIL STATIONS AT BOTH BELAYS - Sept 2016

Hoyes 24/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with Dan L
hotfeet 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

What an adventure. I would guess from the amount of lichen and vegetation that nobody has climbed this route since the last party in April 2011. At least it was dry. Loved it!

with David Elder
dan-8990 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with NM
Keendan 26/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

With Vernon. My hardest multipitch at this grade - and pretty serious climbing too. Shame about the foliage.

John Marsland 09/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
ArnaudG 09/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with John M
Tim Sparrow ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/1999 -

One of the best...

roncaves 09/Aug/98 AltLd
with Gavin Williams
babymoac 20/Jul/95 Lead
with Ian F
Rob Davies 02/Jul/94 AltLd

P1 grassy but better above

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