Rockfax Description
II, 170m, 3 - 4 hours. The route begins with the famous Etala Chimneys.Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, take the path to Lac Bleu then follow a vague track climbing eastwards, directly towards the Petits Charmoz. Cross the moraine beneath the Glacier de Blaitière following the line of least resistance (and the occasional cairn) to reach the ridge coming down from the northwest ridge of the Aiguille de Blaitière. Cross the next bowl (more boulders but easier than the Blaitière moraine) in the direction of the Charmoz to reach the ridge overlooking the foot of the Nantillons Glacier. The glacier is extremely prone to rockfall and, although it can be crossed high up, it is usually worth the extra effort of descending slightly and crossing level with the southwest ridge of the Aiguille de l'M - whichever way you cross, don't dawdle. Having crossed the glacier snout, head towards the Grands Charmoz before turning left and scrambling up the loose but straightforward ground beneath the Col de L'Etala. 1) Climb the right-hand chimney with as much style as you can muster to reach a large ledge. There are two well-placed pegs protecting the tricky moves. Climb the corner on the right before stepping left onto a slab and climbing the steep and tight chimney above (easier than it looks) which has a good peg. 2) Follow easy but loose ground to the Col de l'Etala.3) 4c. Head north towards a pyramid of red rock on the ridge leading to the Petits Charmoz. Climb this, initially on the left, before moving back right to head straight for the 'livre ouvert' (open book) pitch. This is the technical crux of the route and features a physical rockover onto a ledge which is well protected by pegs. 4) Follow the crack above to a good ledge and then stick to the ridge crest, or just off it on the Mer de Glace side. Follow easy but exposed scrambling for 50m to reach a distinct notch with a superb view down to the Nantillons Glacier. 5) At the notch, pass onto the Nantillons side and reach a slabby ledge beneath the summit of the peak. 6) 4a. Climb to the summit via a steep, polished (but technically easy) chimney, a left-leaning corner and a short slab. Descent - Abseil back down to the slabby ledge in one 25m abseil (fixed anchor on the summit). A combination of downclimbing and abseils (fixed belays of varying quality) leads you to the couloir coming down from the Col de la Bûche. This can be joined at various stages, so follow your nose. Stay on the left bank of this to where it becomes a good path. Follow this to the top of the ladders which take you back to the glacier. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A highly reccomended little route which is extremely popular. The granite, though sound, is often very polished and the ascent to the Col de l'Etala provides a classic initiation into the delights of the typical 'Chamonix' chimney!
M Pasteur, J Wicks and C Wilson 05/Jul/1898
Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Rosie's Broken Alpine Dreaming
User | Date | Notes | ||
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FreeloaderJoe | 16 Sep |
Show βeta
βeta: The approach to this route via the glacier and moraine is utterly miserable. Not sure it is worth doing with conditions as they are. Don't be tempted by the endless cool lines/chimneys/gear/tat and other misadventure on the way up to the first Col - you will regret it. Difficult route finding on way down. Make sure you know where you are in relation to the rouge gendarme before attempting descent. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The approach to this route via the glacier and moraine is utterly miserable. Not sure it is worth doing with conditions as they are. Don't be tempted by the endless cool lines/chimneys/gear/tat and other misadventure on the way up to the first Col - you will regret it. Difficult route finding on way down. Make sure you know where you are in relation to the rouge gendarme before attempting descent. |
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rurp | 26 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Don’t downclimb far. Turn right facing out (west) and head to the col with the m then easy down from there | ||
Show beta
βeta: Don’t downclimb far. Turn right facing out (west) and head to the col with the m then easy down from there |
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iainJ | 11 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Ab back down the slab from the top (one pitch) then scramble down rather than doing three abbs off the back of the summit. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Ab back down the slab from the top (one pitch) then scramble down rather than doing three abbs off the back of the summit. |
User | Date | Style | Notes & Partners
|
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Hidden | 31 Aug | Lead | |
morpcat | 18 Aug | AltLd O/S | Approach fine, rockfall minimal in the morning. Chimneys provided interesting sport. Accidentally bypassed the crux due to vague and misleading guidebook info. Not the first to do so as the bypass had lots of tat and polish. Beautiful views and amazing top-out. Descent scrambling was loose, did 6 (?) abseils, most have new tat. Ladders further down than you think. Rockfall on glacier appreciably worse in afternoon. Just made last lift. |
Approach fine, rockfall minimal in the morning. Chimneys provided interesting sport. Accidentally bypassed the crux due to vague and misleading guidebook info. Not the first to do so as the bypass had lots of tat and polish. Beautiful views and amazing top-out. Descent scrambling was loose, did 6 (?) abseils, most have new tat. Ladders further down than you think. Rockfall on glacier appreciably worse in afternoon. Just made last lift. | |||
gscw | 18 Aug | AltLd |
Cable car to cable car - 11 hour day! with Ed |
Cable car to cable car - 11 hour day! with Ed |
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Goran Glumac | 6 Aug | AltLd O/S | Phisically hard chimneys. Rest is great climbing. Amazing view of Mer de Glace. 2:45h, moved together |
Phisically hard chimneys. Rest is great climbing. Amazing view of Mer de Glace. 2:45h, moved together | |||
Albe | 3 Aug | AltLd |
with jonbarford, Street |
with jonbarford, Street |
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Street | 3 Aug | - | |
rurp | 25 Jul | Lead O/S |
170m?!!! It’s about 500. Maybe 170 where you would want to place gear.
Fantastic route, down before the storm. Ladders are brilliant.
Chimneys are like grit v diffs with a rucksack, with ben rowland |
170m?!!! It’s about 500. Maybe 170 where you would want to place gear.
Fantastic route, down before the storm. Ladders are brilliant.
Chimneys are like grit v diffs with a rucksack, with ben rowland |
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kbow265 | 24 Jul | - | |
Helzt | 18 Jul | 2nd O/S | Approach is a beast, as is descent. Altitude hit me hard and had to skip the last summit. |
Approach is a beast, as is descent. Altitude hit me hard and had to skip the last summit. | |||
TreseB | 18 Jul | AltLd | Split the first pitch in two due to quite technical chimneys. Exposed scrambling on the Mer de Glace side of the ridge from the top of the second (our third) pitch to the base of the main top. Dropped this as time was running from us. Ok scrambling down to Col de la Buche. |
Split the first pitch in two due to quite technical chimneys. Exposed scrambling on the Mer de Glace side of the ridge from the top of the second (our third) pitch to the base of the main top. Dropped this as time was running from us. Ok scrambling down to Col de la Buche. | |||
Hidden | 17 Jul | - | |
Hidden | 16 Jul | Lead O/S | |
Hidden | 14 Jul | - | |
Hidden | 6 Jul | Lead | |
iainJ | 6 Jul | Lead O/S |
Good route, got sandbagged by a french guide who sent us off up the wrong (much harder) way. with SophieWalker |
Good route, got sandbagged by a french guide who sent us off up the wrong (much harder) way. with SophieWalker |
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jackob | 6 Jul | AltLd | In big boots! Descent took longer than anticipated with around 7 abs and some stuck ropes! |
In big boots! Descent took longer than anticipated with around 7 abs and some stuck ropes! | |||
Connorh | 6 Jul | AltLd O/S | |
SophieWalker | 6 Jul | 2nd |
with iainJ |
with iainJ |
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Aislinn_sun | ?Jul | AltLd | |
esther | ?Jul | AltLd | |
Aled Williams | 29 Jun | - |
with Hero Pete |
with Hero Pete |
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Hidden | ?? | - | |
8PetrieC | 28 Aug, 2018 | AltLd O/S |
with Tom McCabe |
with Tom McCabe |
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Tom McCabe | 28 Aug, 2018 | Lead O/S |
with 8PetrieC |
with 8PetrieC |
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08nbrierley | 26 Aug, 2018 | - |
with Jack |
with Jack |
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QuentinSu | 22 Aug, 2018 | Lead | |
Johnathan | 17 Aug, 2018 | AltLd dnf | Went off of poor information - attempted too late in the season when it was out of condition and had been for months. The boulder field was very active and the glacier melting. Went off route and found to be incredibly chossy. Abseiled and escaped. |
Went off of poor information - attempted too late in the season when it was out of condition and had been for months. The boulder field was very active and the glacier melting. Went off route and found to be incredibly chossy. Abseiled and escaped. | |||
Richard Alderton | 29 Jul, 2018 | - |
A lot of unpleasant scrambling to reach the 'traditional' Etala Chimneys, then more above. Better to do the SW Pillar then join the ridge from there if you have time.
The ab from just below the summit is currently on very dodgy tat. We would have re-equipped but didn't have enough (needs at least 7-8m). with Cameron |
A lot of unpleasant scrambling to reach the 'traditional' Etala Chimneys, then more above. Better to do the SW Pillar then join the ridge from there if you have time.
The ab from just below the summit is currently on very dodgy tat. We would have re-equipped but didn't have enough (needs at least 7-8m). with Cameron |
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alasdaircavaye | 30 Jun, 2018 | AltLd O/S |
Some what of an epic. Started a bit too late, exhausted before the start. Probably went off line a lot as noted by the hard climbing. Took a bit too long and got back to glacier where we had to relay an sos from the hillside. Crossed glacier at dusk and got to bivvy at dark. Very tiring and hot. with Kieran Cobell, Ethan |
Some what of an epic. Started a bit too late, exhausted before the start. Probably went off line a lot as noted by the hard climbing. Took a bit too long and got back to glacier where we had to relay an sos from the hillside. Crossed glacier at dusk and got to bivvy at dark. Very tiring and hot. with Kieran Cobell, Ethan |
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Ethan.Jenkins.09 | 29 Jun, 2018 | AltLd | |
Petarghh | 19 Jun, 2018 | AltLd O/S | |
Hidden | ?Jun, 2018 | AltLd | |
Hidden | 25 Sep, 2017 | AltLd O/S | |
Deary65 | 25 Sep, 2017 | Lead O/S | Had a warm welcome to the route in the form of a steaming shit on the first ledge approaching the chimneys. Thanks. Rest of the route was great. Think I wandered off route a bit (delirious from methane) and ended up on some spicy sections! |
Had a warm welcome to the route in the form of a steaming shit on the first ledge approaching the chimneys. Thanks. Rest of the route was great. Think I wandered off route a bit (delirious from methane) and ended up on some spicy sections! | |||
steve_gibbs | 29 Aug, 2017 | Lead O/S |
with Hannah |
with Hannah |
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jakeepictv | 27 Aug, 2017 | - | |
maxsmith | 26 Aug, 2017 | 2nd | Highlight of the chamonix trip for me. We took the Montenvers path and ascended directly to the route instead of crossing the glacier but the approach was still pretty scary. Rewarded by fantastic climbing/scrambling on the ridge with great views and positions. Took 8 hours aller-retour from plan de l'aiguille. |
Highlight of the chamonix trip for me. We took the Montenvers path and ascended directly to the route instead of crossing the glacier but the approach was still pretty scary. Rewarded by fantastic climbing/scrambling on the ridge with great views and positions. Took 8 hours aller-retour from plan de l'aiguille. | |||
Michael | 18 Aug, 2017 | - | |
Hidden | 1 Aug, 2017 | Lead O/S | |
Rob Moorcroft | ?Aug, 2017 | 2nd |
with Richard Ive |
with Richard Ive |
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Robbie Blease | 29 Jul, 2017 | AltLd |
Really nice route! A shame the approach and descent is a little dodgy. with Linus Osorio, JohnHartley |
Really nice route! A shame the approach and descent is a little dodgy. with Linus Osorio, JohnHartley |
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Linus Osorio | 29 Jul, 2017 | AltLd |
with Robbie Blease |
with Robbie Blease |
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JohnHartley | 29 Jul, 2017 | AltLd |
with Robbie Blease |
with Robbie Blease |
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mim tiller | 12 Jul, 2017 | AltLd O/S | |
EuanM | 26 Aug, 2016 | Lead | Great route with fantastic exposure and situation. The first chimney felt tough for the grade. A long day with a walk back to Chamonix. |
Great route with fantastic exposure and situation. The first chimney felt tough for the grade. A long day with a walk back to Chamonix. | |||
Nathan Adam | 19 Aug, 2016 | Solo dnf | Logging for memory more than anything else as we didn't even get to the start. Nantillions glacier is in a bad state right now, with rocks coming down from mid morning onwards, best get across early. Also, ladders are further left (looking at the crag) than the new Rockfax guide shows in topo. Ran away with my tail between my legs after seeing a car sized block come down the lower glacier where someone had crossed ten minutes earlier. Shame as it looks like a great wee adventure. With Jordan. |
Logging for memory more than anything else as we didn't even get to the start. Nantillions glacier is in a bad state right now, with rocks coming down from mid morning onwards, best get across early. Also, ladders are further left (looking at the crag) than the new Rockfax guide shows in topo. Ran away with my tail between my legs after seeing a car sized block come down the lower glacier where someone had crossed ten minutes earlier. Shame as it looks like a great wee adventure. With Jordan. | |||
Hidden | 1 Aug, 2016 | AltLd | |
Hidden | 29 Jul, 2016 | AltLd O/S | |
Heather Osborne | 29 Jul, 2016 | AltLd |
Loved the chimneys, though got a bit stuck in the first one with my rucksack, and didn't spot a handy peg. Brilliant route, even better than it looks in the guide, despite an uninspiring start. with Mike Nolan |
Loved the chimneys, though got a bit stuck in the first one with my rucksack, and didn't spot a handy peg. Brilliant route, even better than it looks in the guide, despite an uninspiring start. with Mike Nolan |
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JezzaCat | 25 Jul, 2016 | Lead O/S |
with Stella Baylis |
with Stella Baylis |
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Stella Baylis | 25 Jul, 2016 | 2nd |
with JezzaCat |
with JezzaCat |
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Tony Ryland | 20 Jul, 2016 | AltLd |
with Philip Burgess |
with Philip Burgess |
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CraigOsborne | ?Jul, 2016 | - | Brilliant day out! |
Brilliant day out! | |||
JezzaCat | 17 Jul, 2015 | Lead |
with Stella Baylis |
with Stella Baylis |
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Stella Baylis | 17 Jul, 2015 | 2nd |
with JezzaCat |
with JezzaCat |
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Gumery | 2 Jul, 2015 | Lead O/S | |
Hidden | 11 Jun, 2015 | Solo | |
Andy Lagan | 17 Sep, 2014 | AltLd O/S | |
Dawn_K_B | 20 Jun, 2014 | 2nd dnf | If I wasn't so haggard it would have been amazing! Thanks to Ben Jem and Tom for putting up with me/making sure I didn't collapse! |
If I wasn't so haggard it would have been amazing! Thanks to Ben Jem and Tom for putting up with me/making sure I didn't collapse! | |||
benkelsey | 20 Jun, 2014 | Lead dnf | Dawn was recovering from Illness but wanted to do some snow. glorious day. got to the rocky step onto the ridge proper and realised she was suffering. abbed off and managed to get her down for last lift, just! Perfect active rest day after Eugster Diagonal and Frendo..!? |
Dawn was recovering from Illness but wanted to do some snow. glorious day. got to the rocky step onto the ridge proper and realised she was suffering. abbed off and managed to get her down for last lift, just! Perfect active rest day after Eugster Diagonal and Frendo..!? | |||
Teappleby | 20 Jun, 2014 | AltLd dnf | walked across from the midi, Dawn was feeling under the weather so we were slow and so turned back at the chimneys below the ridge. |
walked across from the midi, Dawn was feeling under the weather so we were slow and so turned back at the chimneys below the ridge. | |||
JemG | 20 Jun, 2014 | AltLd dnf |
with Teappleby |
with Teappleby |
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James Gordon | 21 Jul, 2013 | AltLd |
with chris687 |
with chris687 |
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Hidden | 21 Jul, 2013 | AltLd | |
walts4 | ??, 2013 | - | |
jcw | ??, 2013 | - | |
freeheel47 | ??, 2013 | AltLd | |
Tobias at Home | ??, 2013 | - | |
Hidden | 23 Sep, 2012 | AltLd | |
Hidden | 21 Aug, 2012 | AltLd | |
John Workman | 1 Aug, 2012 | Lead |
Great wee climb. The approach and the descent are also good. with Andy M |
Great wee climb. The approach and the descent are also good. with Andy M |
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Hidden | 22 Aug, 2011 | - | |
Greg Boswell | 31 Jul, 2011 | Solo O/S |
with Ally Baba |
with Ally Baba |
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Karl Wooffindin | 1 Aug, 2010 | AltLd O/S |
Superb. with Ollie Hemstock |
Superb. with Ollie Hemstock |
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Hidden | 1 Aug, 2010 | AltLd O/S | |
Guy Wilson | ??, 2010 | - | |
keith leonard | ??, 2010 | - | |
Bristoldave | ?Aug, 2009 | Lead |
with CarolineH |
with CarolineH |
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Teappleby | ?Aug, 2009 | AltLd |
with mum, Sarah, dad |
with mum, Sarah, dad |
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CarolineH | ?Aug, 2009 | - |
with Bristoldave |
with Bristoldave |
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davepc | ?Jul, 2009 | AltLd |
with Mike |
with Mike |
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sam820 | 23 Jun, 2009 | 2nd |
with Neil D, BorisVBlade |
with Neil D, BorisVBlade |
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BorisVBlade | 23 Jun, 2009 | AltLd O/S |
with Neil Dowse, Sam Davies |
with Neil Dowse, Sam Davies |
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Neil D | ?Jun, 2009 | AltLd dog |
with BorisVBlade |
with BorisVBlade |
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Gibbo | ?Jul, 2008 | AltLd |
with Tom Gibbison |
with Tom Gibbison |
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Hidden | 31 Aug, 2007 | AltLd O/S | |
decs | 1 Aug, 2007 | - |
with mikecopp |
with mikecopp |
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localboy | 5 Jul, 2007 | 2nd O/S |
A little harder than the guide suggested, and watch the description in the guide as it may not always be correct! with Chris H, simonf |
A little harder than the guide suggested, and watch the description in the guide as it may not always be correct! with Chris H, simonf |
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Hidden | 19 Jun, 2007 | AltLd O/S | |
JonHarvey | 19 Jun, 2007 | AltLd O/S |
Good route ,, views spectacular, great summit ,, horrid descent! with Jay Jackson, Sharon Hooper |
Good route ,, views spectacular, great summit ,, horrid descent! with Jay Jackson, Sharon Hooper |
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31770 | 19 Jun, 2007 | AltLd O/S |
with adamscottthomas |
with adamscottthomas |
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Hidden | 19 Jun, 2007 | AltLd | |
Hidden | 17 Jun, 2007 | AltLd | |
Hidden | 17 Jun, 2007 | AltLd O/S | |
shazhooper | ?Jun, 2007 | - |
with Jon Harvey, Jay Jackson |
with Jon Harvey, Jay Jackson |
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tom.e | 12 Jul, 2006 | - |
with Charlie Everett |
with Charlie Everett |
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Misha | ??, 2006 | - |
with UCPA |
with UCPA |
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SteveM | 21 Aug, 2004 | AltLd |
with Tobias at Home |
with Tobias at Home |
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manmike | ?Jul, 2004 | AltLd | |
clams | ??, 2004 | - |
with AD |
with AD |
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Hidden | 27 Jun, 2003 | AltLd | |
Mark Salter | 11 Apr, 2002 | AltLd |
with Chris Shorrock |
with Chris Shorrock |
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net | ?Aug, 2001 | - |
with Jeb |
with Jeb |
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Paul-Michael | 19 Jul, 2001 | AltLd O/S |
From the Refuge du Plan. One point of aid was used on each of the 2 chimneys, and 2 points on the diere. with Cuillin Calling |
From the Refuge du Plan. One point of aid was used on each of the 2 chimneys, and 2 points on the diere. with Cuillin Calling |
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Cuillin Calling | 19 Jul, 2001 | AltLd |
with Paul-Michael |
with Paul-Michael |
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fellgazelle | ?Sep, 1999 | - |
Had a mini epic. Set off way too late, totally underestimated it, arrived on the summit as darkness was falling. By the time we reached the Col De La Buche it was dark. Spent a fun few hours finding our way down the Nantillons without headtorches! We were so green. with Alan Haigh |
Had a mini epic. Set off way too late, totally underestimated it, arrived on the summit as darkness was falling. By the time we reached the Col De La Buche it was dark. Spent a fun few hours finding our way down the Nantillons without headtorches! We were so green. with Alan Haigh |
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rachm2004 | 29 Jul, 1998 | 2nd |
with Ian L |
with Ian L |
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craig h | ?Aug, 1994 | AltLd |
with Jim Mellor |
with Jim Mellor |
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Duncan I | ?Aug, 1994 | - |
Rained all the way along it with Sarah |
Rained all the way along it with Sarah |
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Rich Cross - Alpine Guides | ?Jul, 1993 | Solo | |
tjekel | ??, 1993 | - | |
Hidden | 1 Aug, 1990 | AltLd O/S | |
Pete_Frost | ?Jul, 1990 | AltLd O/S |
with Luc Percival |
with Luc Percival |
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auld al | ?Jul, 1990 | AltLd O/S | |
mark-abz | ?Aug, 1988 | AltLd |
with Andy W |
with Andy W |
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gallonj | ?Jul, 1988 | - | |
Maarten2 | ??, 1988 | Lead | Expo camp. Did in full Alpine style - rock boots would have been way faster.... |
Expo camp. Did in full Alpine style - rock boots would have been way faster.... | |||
freeheel47 | ?Jul, 1987 | AltLd | |
bobelvedere | 14 Jul, 1986 | Lead |
with Birgitte Ilsø Klinkby |
with Birgitte Ilsø Klinkby |
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Neil McA | 14 Jul, 1984 | AltLd O/S |
with Andy Perkins |
with Andy Perkins |
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Robmwatt | ??, 1984 | AltLd |
with Gaz Morgan |
with Gaz Morgan |
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Richard Weller | ?Aug, 1980 | - |
with Richard White |
with Richard White |
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Hidden | ??, 1980 | Solo | |
Nigel Bond | 24 Aug, 1979 | Lead |
with Martin Crosby |
with Martin Crosby |
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DonnyDave | 15 Jul, 1978 | AltLd |
My first "Aiguille side" Alpine route. with Marilyn Banks, Ray Banks, Joyce Sixsmith |
My first "Aiguille side" Alpine route. with Marilyn Banks, Ray Banks, Joyce Sixsmith |
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Hidden | ?Aug, 1976 | - | |
Andy Chubb | 18 Jul, 1976 | AltLd |
with Pete Coghill |
with Pete Coghill |
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Bolt Phobia | 29 Jul, 1975 | Lead |
with Kit Spencer, Nicole |
with Kit Spencer, Nicole |
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Rob Davies | ?Jul, 1975 | AltLd |
Raining on top with Dennis Whiteley (ICMC), Niall Macfadyen |
Raining on top with Dennis Whiteley (ICMC), Niall Macfadyen |
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cenotaphcorner | ?Aug, 1974 | 2nd O/S |
with Paul Ingham |
with Paul Ingham |
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Hidden | 17 Aug, 1973 | - | |
Climbingspike | ??, 1972 | - | |