7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
7 pitches. The wide waterfall behind Hydro Gas. The first five pitches are easy ice climbing (grade 2) and it is possible to abseil off from here. This makes the waterfall a possibility for less experienced ice climbers. The two last pitches are considerably steeper. Descend by abseiling from trees. © Rockfax

Jon Haukassveen, Jesse Nazareno 1992

mila.and 17/Dec/17 AltLd dnf
Mathias Willerup 04/Mar/17 Lead O/S

Nice, long and easy for the grade I thought. Abseil on trees all the way down on the right facing the waterfall. Worked fine on a 50m rope.

with Fritz Ziegler
Manc88 03/Mar/17 AltLd

climbed after a morning on Ozzimosis to make for a long but highly enjoyable first day in Rjukan. Majority done moving together, pitching the final steep sections. Thoroughly enjoyable!

mark-abz 24/Feb/17 AltLd
Hidden 24/Feb/17 AltLd
ElliottB 24/Feb/17 Lead dnf

Led p2, after p3 started to abb down due to cold and the time spent on route already.

with Emily, Alex
carr0t 24/Feb/17 -
Rafal Malczyk 24/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
with Efe Tunc
Hidden 24/Feb/17 2nd
efetunc 24/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Deliberately chose a difficult line up especially on pitches 5, 6, and 7. We think it was WI4. Took 10 hours including abseils.

with Rafal Malczyk
George Killaspy 22/Feb/17 AltLd

To the top this time!

with Milo
Yourlead 22/Feb/17 AltLd

Great day out, with Graham and Anders climbing to our left. Think it was 6 pitches. Ewan taking the the harder ones.

with Ewan Gourley
Jenkins75 19/Feb/17 AltLd
Gerben Neven 14/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Finished after 5 pitches. Really good fun!

with Simon
s.thursz 14/Feb/17 AltLd
rpinto 10/Feb/17 2nd O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 09/Feb/17 AltLd

Did 2.5 pitches before abbing off - too crowded with lots of falling ice & every chance of finishing in the dark

drgrange 09/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Really nasty walk in if you get it wrong, which we did! Only did 100m or so until we got bored of falling ice from the crowds above

Marti999 09/Feb/17 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Blurgy319 24/Jan/17 2nd

Hung a right and finished in the dark, 5 pitch abseil through the trees then onto the face proper by head-torch and spotlight. Epic day!

with Ali Beer, Martyn Clayton
TP 17/Mar/16 Lead

Finished at 1 am.

with Ben H
Lumbering Oaf 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Ice was pretty solid although there were areas low down where there was a crust of sheet-ice with snow underneath. The sheet-ice would break away when you hit it. Quite dangerous if there are groups/belayer below you. Great route. 6 x 60m abseils back down through pine trees takes awhile.

manbat 12/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

This waterfall is a monster. Not great conditions, with large amounts off hard eggshell covering sugary snow, covering the good ice underneath. I led P1 and 3. During P3 I was heading up a steep (for WI2) bulge and noticed a prominent horizontal band going across my path. I took care to avoid it with my axes, but then kicked a crampon straight into it, releasing a LOT of water. Then a huge gushing sound from within the fall could be heard. Deeply unsettling, as I was worried the whole thing was going to collapse around me! With only two screws left (enough to make an anchor) a very focused run out followed to get well up over the lip of the bulge to make a belay. Matt ran out of rope on the next pitch, so we simul-climbed, and then moved up again to belay beneath the first WI3 pitch. I took a less steep path around to the tight. Matt quickly despatch the short but steep final pitch. The descent was almost as epic as the climb: abseiling, wading through deep snow. Dark by the time we finished abbing. It took ten hours door to door. A great day, and a good challenge for our level.

Hidden 26/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Feb/16 Lead O/S
George Killaspy 23/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Milo
BPaske 23/Feb/16 AltLd
Hidden 23/Feb/16 AltLd
Hidden 22/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
gjd 22/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Brian H
metrorat 21/Feb/16 AltLd rpt
metrorat 20/Feb/16 Lead O/S
snowcat ?/Feb/16 2nd
with Colin Knowles, Lindsay Griffin
Deezel65 23/Jan/16 AltLd

Mega day out, ice was in pretty good condition, pitch 3 and 4 were particularly good - 6 x 60m abseils back down. Fantastic views down the valley

Hidden 23/Jan/16 AltLd
Dazluke2000 20/Jan/16 AltLd
ollyroberts 18/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
guhj 16/Jan/16 AltLd O/S

Did not climb the top part, and generally stayed waaay to the right, which may have been a bad idea.

Hidden 16/Jan/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 16/Jan/16 AltLd
lanky and weak 10/Jan/16 AltLd dnf

Snowed heavy, abandoned ship after 2 pitches as we were swimming in powder and it was getting a bit melty.

Hidden 15/Mar/15 AltLd
Frasergillies 28/Feb/15 -

Estimate date. Done several times!

with James Verrill
Hidden 28/Feb/15 Lead
Hidden 28/Feb/15 Lead
Stuart Hurworth 26/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Easy first 4 pitches, all a full ropes length. Some soft and melting/wet ice but a football fields width of ice to climb! Last two pitches had some short steep sections of good ice with thin ice, rock, turf and snow in between. Climbed as a three and lead P2, P5. Long 7 pitches of abseiling through trees! Good for practising your rope throwing, but it's better if you pay it out as you go!

augustus trout 26/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
MaccMark 26/Feb/15 AltLd
charles.austin 22/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
OllieF 22/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Swinging leads, amazing route, great end to the trip. Dirty climbing on the last pitch, horrendous shattering ice, rock and snow. Had a quick crack at the left hand finish on the way down, took a fall as ice fractured unexpectedly! Abbed off on V thread.

with Charles, Andy Hitchings, Jago Miller
Andy bowden 13/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Jackislav 13/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
nickstephens 13/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

possibly with deviations ;o)

matt.woodfield 12/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
partz 12/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Lead up to the steep pitches then abbed off as a group ahead of us. Bit drippy and hollow in places but a great position and views!

Richard Kendrick ?/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Stanley
Hidden 31/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
j.anstee 21/Jan/15 AltLd
Steve Woollard 13/Jan/15 AltLd
with Ian H
lcullum7 08/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
BLodge 08/Jan/15 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
IJHunt 06/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 Ricard guiding others. Good conditions and nice ice.

with Fiona
phildawson 05/Jan/15 2nd O/S
Ciaran Mullan 05/Jan/15 2nd O/S
Somerville ??/2015 -
Paul Hastwell ??/2015 -
bengeldeard 16/Feb/14 AltLd

Great climb as usual. Lot of snow on it making most of it a bit of a slog (especially at the top through the trees)

with Pete Budge
bonoid 18/Jan/14 2nd

Climbed as a 3. Loads of snow, good fun abseiling back down in the dark!

alexm198 17/Jan/14 AltLd dnf

Late start after having to break trail through waist deep powder to get to the start. Got up to the part where it narrows down and then abbed off to get back before nightfall. Powder was neck deep in places - avoid this one after heavy snowfall!

Hidden 17/Jan/14 AltLd dnf
KevB 13/Mar/13 AltLd rpt
with Carl Sunley
mark32 ?/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden 25/Feb/13 AltLd
Ryan M Wilson 20/Feb/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
emmarowe 19/Feb/13 2nd
edmitchell 19/Feb/13 Lead rpt
Stroppy 09/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

So much fun, descent through woods in the dark. Climbed 10-4, back to the car 1930.

Sam Husband 09/Feb/13 AltLd

8 pitches for us on short ropes, took 10 hours up and down, excellent fun despite ed throwing half our ice screws back down....

with Ed
Hidden 07/Feb/13 AltLd
pete1185 04/Feb/13 AltLd

Stopped a bit early because we ran out of light.

with Dom Koole, Phil Ewels
tallphil 04/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Ran out of light so abbed off before WI3 pitches. Quite snowy, slightly sketch ice. Took a long time with three...

with Dom Koole, Pete Robinson
Hidden 01/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
roelq ?/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Jeroen
Hidden 26/Jan/13 AltLd rpt
bengeldeard 03/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Started in dark, finished in dark. Good route, nice ledges to belay from. Best to be able to do 60m abseils.

Hidden 31/Dec/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 31/Dec/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 08/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
dan-8990 08/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with AO
marcusmarcus1 08/Mar/12 2nd dog

Al lead most of the day with a slip!!! I lead 1 small pitch as did Russ

with Al Hadnett, Russ Reid
Hidden 08/Mar/12 Lead dnf
jon59 07/Mar/12 Lead
Zoomer 07/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

On training for WCI, did 5 pitches up the RH side before abbing.

with A Student
MrRiley 03/Mar/12 AltLd

Superb climbing! Done in 6 pitches - Rob got the odds I got the evens. 6 long abseils to round off a long day!

kenneM 26/Feb/12 AltLd

Lead all but two pitches.

with John McEvoy, Henry Crosby
tomwheeler 25/Feb/12 AltLd
RossKirtley 24/Feb/12 AltLd

Spicy 4 hour abseil in the dark.

Tomek S 20/Feb/12 AltLd dnf
Wojttek 20/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/12 AltLd dnf
iang74 17/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 17/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Cornish boy 17/Feb/12 AltLd

I led the first pitch, and Sean the next two. With our 60m rope we think we got to the top of the 'normal' pitch 4, at which point we had to call it a day with light fading. Climbed alongside Lee and Ian, who took the conventional 4 pitches to reach our high point. Fantastic route and a bit scary on those hanging belays! Joined our rope to Ian and Lee's and took 3 full abseils, one over a cliff, to get back to the base of the route. It was the icing on the cake to a fantastic last day. Need to come back one day and finish the route, which looked pretty steep towards the top. Pizza and beers awaited!

with Sean
Hidden 15/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/12 AltLd
stratandrew 10/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Absolutely fantastic route! Jim P1,3,5. Me 2,4. Missed P6 due to running out of time. Superb climbing never too hard. P1 was really a snowy gully. P 2 - 4 were mostly at about WI3 with the odd wee bit of WI4. P 5 had a good steep pillar - avoidable if you wanted. The abseils down took a wee while - 4 good length abs.

with Jim Symon
wence 09/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with Dan, Mike J
sj87 07/Feb/12 -
pebbles 07/Feb/12 AltLd

the highlight of the trip, a long memorable day. 7 abseil descent, completed just before twilight

with guido
HIGHTOWER 16/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Left hand finish, which was harder than it looked.

with Martin (Leeming)
Hidden 09/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Cardi 08/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Late start. Took steeper variations. Abseiled off before the top two pitches.

with Jack S
williamsd79 07/Jan/12 2nd O/S
with Will Marshall
Sam Warby ?/Jan/12 Lead O/S
JasRY 10/Mar/11 AltLd
with Mike Pigram
groovy_nut 05/Mar/11 Lead dnf


with Ant, Kate, Tom, Dave W
g0rd0n davids0n ?/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with roy davidson
innesmac ?/Mar/11 Lead
cjohn62 22/Feb/11 2nd
with keith
Julli 21/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Hanna Pihlajaluoto
Mark Salter 19/Feb/11 Lead rpt
with JC
yashvi 09/Feb/11 -
with Edwin Mitchell
Lapepina 09/Feb/11 2nd
MariaT 09/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

soloed up a long way. Ewan led 1st WI2 pitch, I led 2nd, walked to base of the 2 WI3 pitches, which Ewan led to top

smudge 09/Feb/11 AltLd
with Rob
Adam Booth 07/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Bailed half way - too many people on route knocking down ice.

Ellen Cobby 07/Feb/11 2nd
edmitchell 07/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
cmtoombs 29/Jan/11 Lead
with Nick
csab1978 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Guide book says 7 pitches, we climbed in 5. Last 2 pitches were WI3 previous 3 were WI2, Temp around +1,

with Arild Wifladt
alpinestar_no1 05/Jan/11 AltLd β
Hidden ?/Jan/11 -
Hidden ?/Jan/11 -
mschmude ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Cristobal 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Eivind Tveter
LozM 06/Mar/10 AltLd
with Mark J
coffeepot 05/Mar/10 2nd
with Manik, jelaby
Manchi 05/Mar/10 2nd
with tim_mcd
tim_mcd 05/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Manchi
jelaby 05/Mar/10 AltLd dnf

Lame attempt. Started late, climbed slowly, got scared by the thin ice with air spaces behind, abbed off after the 3rd pitch.

with Manik, CoffeePot
BorisVBlade 27/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Simul-Climbed in 2 pitches. Up in 90 mins, down in 60 mins. Led bottom half.

Hidden 27/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Neil D 27/Feb/10 AltLd rpt

Simul-Climbed in 2 pitches. Up in 90 mins, down in 60 mins. Led top half.

bobbarnes00 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with James Pomeroy; Richard Roberts
Poco Loco 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

What a classic! Unfortunately we got stuck behind some slow parties above us, we were moving a fair bit faster. I led to start of P5, where Bob took the lead. At this point Ric got hit in the leg by a large block of ice dislodged by the climbers above. Wasn't sure how bad his leg was, so abbed off in a hurry. I will definitely go back to finish this one.

with Bob Barnes, Richard Roberts
ebastock 24/Feb/10 2nd dnf

Only did 1st pitch as the ice was not good!

with John Beddard
pldarch 19/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Jones
Hidden 09/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Bex_M 07/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Barra
Hidden 07/Feb/10 AltLd dog
Ellis Bird ?/Feb/10 Lead O/S
JHC ?/Feb/10 -
ig248 ?/Dec/09 Solo dnf

No ice, waist-deep snow covering the slab.

with Fabian Jakubczik
sambosanquet101 19/Feb/09 AltLd
dgray455 03/Feb/09 Lead O/S

A 7 pitch 3 star Rjukan classic. This climb is a must do for an easy all day out. Can be done in 5-6 pitches with 70m rope. We did 6 pitches with a short walk to the base of the final steep section on the right(2 pitches). First couple pitches are easy slab ice WI2 with good belays with full conditions. Harder pitches towards the top with several variations up to WI5 in full conditions (finish left). On this accent we finished right with a WI3+ variant. Decent is through the trees which can be done in 5 double 60m abseils. All tree anchors have several slings with abseil rings. The best approach is to start at the power station directly below the climb. Use stairs on the left side of a building and gain access to the trees via a break in the fence at a water drain. Took 8 hours for a team of 2 without swapping leads.

with Alastair
Kaiser999 01/Feb/09 Lead

Led all pitches. Nothing to difficult, though very snowy conditions. interesting ab down after dark

with Andy Ashton
Hidden ?/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
KevB 14/Jan/09 AltLd
with Henry M, Iain M
cham749 14/Jan/09 AltLd
with David Jones
AndyL 06/Jan/09 AltLd
with Ali Clarke and Bjarte
Jamie Degel ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S

Gets dark early here ! Abseiled off late afternoon in pitch black awesome view of lights below.The tree stumps here are great for quick abs!

with Frank Dahlke (DaV Kiel), volker Osterlitz (DAV Hamburg)
alexrafferty1986 ?/Jan/09 Lead O/S
with Ryan Perry
Skinny Kin 24/Mar/08 Lead dnf

Very long route with sudden drop in temperature, the surface ice was very brittle and dinnerplating a lot. Having led all the bottom WI2 pitches, I had enough. John and I missed out the top 2 harder pitches and abseiled down to town.

adw07 16/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

lots of powder, easy climbing with nice steep finish, ab down in the dark

Hidden 16/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Mr Spoons 08/Mar/08 Lead
with Ollie
orb 07/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
with Simon Fairman
Simon Caldwell 05/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

In 6 pitches to the top. Abseiled off well to the right (looking up) in four 60m abs (2 hours for 4 people). Great day, and rather tiring.

with Carmen
lithos 05/Mar/08 Lead

great but long, 2 hrs to ab down (2 x 50m and a walk to next tree) 1 x 57m to abaklovs (or tie your own) and 55m into gully. Doable with 50m ropes, easier with 60m. Took left hand steepest pillar at top at about 4+/5 on fairyfoss route !!

with Steve Boxall
Hidden 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Jamie Light 02/Mar/08 -

Solo of first 3 pitches, then pitched rest. 6 abs to get off, great fun with great company!

Hidden 02/Mar/08 2nd
Tim Bateman 24/Feb/08 AltLd

Only did the first 3 pitches this time and finnished on the top pitch of Faireyfoss which is surely steeper than WI2.

with George Bird
Jim Haydock 24/Feb/08 AltLd
with Fred'
Rampikino 23/Feb/08 AltLd

7 pitches up and 6 abseils down. A long day but quite a good route with some steep parts. A good end to the trip.

with Cat
jjclarke70 21/Feb/08 2nd
with Elliot
Adi Hooper 19/Feb/08 AltLd
with Roger Ward
Hidden 18/Feb/08 AltLd β
Hidden ?/Feb/08 Lead
Hidden 02/Jan/08 AltLd O/S
inuklm ??/2008 -
tombushell ??/2008 2nd
with John Bushell
DanielJ 17/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with jon
Hidden 10/Mar/07 AltLd
Hidden 07/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Neilm18 07/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
adamwesthead ?/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Big Al slogged his way up to the start of the climb then got hit on the head by ice and had to go back to the car so me a Nick did it. Exiting absail off tree on the descent and almost got the ropes stuck

with Hoult
Tim Bateman ?/Mar/07 AltLd
with Nick Beale
Hidden 20/Feb/07 2nd
Hidden 15/Feb/07 AltLd
Alasdair Fulton 11/Feb/07 AltLd O/S

Did 4 pitches then it got dark.......

Neil Adams 11/Feb/07 Lead O/S
with Andy N
andyinglis 11/Feb/07 AltLd O/S

1st 5 pitches then abb off in the dark, Lara frost nip!

with and Ally Fulton, Lara T
Epic Ebdon 11/Feb/07 2nd O/S

Moved together for first 100m or so, then pitched as it was a calf-burning horror. Felt... rough, ;-) and abbed off 2 pitches later.

with Neil Adams, Wee Andy
KeithW 01/Feb/07 AltLd O/S

Superb climbing, bit harder than Kvitaa.

with SteveM
Ally Gillies ?/Feb/07 2nd
with Cedric, Cam
Hidden ?/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
shazbat ?/Mar/06 AltLd
with SCC
FrankW 22/Feb/06 AltLd O/S
with Iain H
Paul Burgess 14/Feb/06 AltLd
with Paul Hastwell
Simon K 06/Feb/06 Lead dnf

Too much fresh/loose snow = avalanche risk. Did 3 pitches and abbed off.

with PR
Pete Nugent 04/Feb/06 AltLd
Hidden 04/Feb/06 AltLd
Piaras Kerry ?/Feb/06 AltLd
Stuart Johnston ?/Jan/06 AltLd
Martin Bennett 28/Jan/05 -
with NickH
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
plain kitten ??/2000 Lead
charlesmfrench ??/1999 AltLd O/S

L,2,L,2 etc.

with Ole Henning
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High WI-3+
Mid WI-3+
Low WI-3+
High WI-3
Mid WI-3
Low WI-3
High WI-2+
Mid WI-2+
Low WI-2+
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set