Also known as Via Leni. Superb. Also known as the Leni route with the Erwin variation. The climb ascends the great pinnacle of the Plattenturm by its front face in five classic and intricate pitches. It features delicate slabs, steep cracks and a bulging crux (pitch 2) suited for taller climbers. There are a couple of 5c moves towards the end of the first pitch - but aid is close to hand if you needed. Bolt belays throughout and lots of installed protection. Take quickdraws and medium nuts.
Access: Pretty much as for Leni Links. Five minutes from the Albigna dam. Get up to the base of the Plattenturm directly below its summit. Red paint marks the start.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. 5c 25m. Ascend the slab heading right to gain a small ramp and use it to get over a small overhang.
2. 5c 25m. (Could be A0 if you aid the crux.) From the right side of the slab cross over towards the left under an overhang and, almost where it ends, climb over it and gain a stance.
3. 5c 30m. Climb up a slab, then go horizontally right to a crack; climb up this and then go right again to a small dièdre that is climbed to gain a stance on the right.
4. 5c 25m. Climb up on the right from the stance to a flake and up this and continue up a curving dièdre.
5. 5c+ 45m. Climb directly to a small dièdre, then up a chimney to a terrace; go right via vertical flakes, then climb via a slab under the top of the tower up to a grassy saddle.
Descent: As for Leni Links using the gully on the left of the Plattenturm or abseil back down the face.

E. Frei, Erwin Kilchör and Siffredo Negrini, 1981 - who added to the original route ascended by Jöri Bardell, Vital Eggenberger and Peter Müller, 15 September 1978. 15/Sep/1978

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
mattgrange ?Jul AltLd One of the best routes I did here, lots of varied climbing as well as the usual technical granite slabs. Crux of P2 was excellent, as was P3.
One of the best routes I did here, lots of varied climbing as well as the usual technical granite slabs. Crux of P2 was excellent, as was P3.
Hidden 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Guy Arnold ?Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead crux
with Dave Adler
Lead crux
with Dave Adler
perrys 18 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Bruce Kerry, Alex Neame
with Bruce Kerry, Alex Neame
Hidden 14 Jul, 2017 AltLd dog
gjd 14 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Brian H
with Brian H
cissacarvalho 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
andrzej kierzek 18 Aug, 2016 Lead dog Lead P1 and P4 cleanly. Climbed roof at P2 as A0. On P3 went too high and rested on bolt - did it easily on second attempt. Started with wrong sequence at the base of the chimney on P5 and rested on bolt again, before completing the route. Great climb.
Lead P1 and P4 cleanly. Climbed roof at P2 as A0. On P3 went too high and rested on bolt - did it easily on second attempt. Started with wrong sequence at the base of the chimney on P5 and rested on bolt again, before completing the route. Great climb.
olekemi 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Good start for a week in Bregaglia and Val Masino. One aid (A0), and I now read the move would have suited taller climbers. Why me on that pitch? Anyway, excellent climb worthy of all its stars.
with Mark G
Good start for a week in Bregaglia and Val Masino. One aid (A0), and I now read the move would have suited taller climbers. Why me on that pitch? Anyway, excellent climb worthy of all its stars.
with Mark G
Peter Metcalfe 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Nemmie 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd
Big Lee 15 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2 & 4. Maybe escaped too far left on P2? Five varied pitches but P4 up the curving crack was probably my favourite.
with Pero
Led pitches 2 & 4. Maybe escaped too far left on P2? Five varied pitches but P4 up the curving crack was probably my favourite.
with Pero
Pero 15 Aug, 2013 AltLd
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 26 Aug, 2012 Lead
with Gerry Arcari
with Gerry Arcari
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd dnf
benkelsey 8 Aug, 2012 AltLd dnf started up the sketchy leni links and took a while. sacked it off as it might have got dark
with remus
started up the sketchy leni links and took a while. sacked it off as it might have got dark
with remus
Hidden 30 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Phil Emerson ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 11 Jul, 2011 AltLd
GraMc 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with phil emerson
with phil emerson
Hidden ??, 2011 -
theotherpetehill 16 Aug, 2010 AltLd dnf Abbed off after 2 pitches, it was wet and late
Abbed off after 2 pitches, it was wet and late
zach.stone 16 Aug, 2010 AltLd dnf found the upper half wet
found the upper half wet
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC 26 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Very nice.
with Lofty
Very nice.
with Lofty
basvdploeg ??, 2010 -
innes ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ruth
with Ruth
Dirk Wallis 16 Aug, 2008 AltLd
pete johnson ?Aug, 2008 -
with pauldrew, Lun
with pauldrew, Lun
davebrox ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
pauldrew ?Aug, 2008 Lead
Chris L Hill ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
davepc ?Jul, 2008 AltLd
with Mike
with Mike
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Barry D 25 Jul, 2007 Lead A Classic route,did it in 5 pitches,very varied.
with Chris M
A Classic route,did it in 5 pitches,very varied.
with Chris M
Mihkel 15 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S Leni Route - with "Kilchar start". A good route but certainly no 'classic'. I was definitely off-route on P1 - a steep friction climbing between spaced bolts. 2 hrs (gbt-1).
Leni Route - with "Kilchar start". A good route but certainly no 'classic'. I was definitely off-route on P1 - a steep friction climbing between spaced bolts. 2 hrs (gbt-1).
Hidden ??, 2006 AltLd
tom.e ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Charlie Everett
with Charlie Everett
FrankW 28 Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Peter T, Joe
with Peter T, Joe
jsw1 2 Aug, 2002 -
with Kezia Pugh
with Kezia Pugh
uphillnow ?Jul, 2002 AltLd
with Mark Gray
with Mark Gray
dan gibson ?Sep, 2001 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Brian Rodgers ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Conor Boyd, Rob Smith
with Conor Boyd, Rob Smith
Marti999 ?Aug, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Andy Lancaster
with Andy Lancaster
Andy Say 10 Jul, 1994 Lead
jcw ??, 1994 -
with Julian Cox
with Julian Cox
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Voting
High 6a+
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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set