Said to be outstanding. Excellent rock, excellent pro and bolted stances.
Access: From the Dam Keeper’s house go down the road to the cable car until you reach a wide open space on the left. A red mark shows the start (5 mins).
Description: (Treat with caution. Pitch lengths differ from topo.)
1. 5c 40m. Start up the cracks which flare and go right as soon as you can to an arête and follow it up to slabs formed by upside down flakes.
2. 5a 20m. Climb up slightly leftwards to a large and vegetated ledge.
3. 5c 25m. To the left of a short steep wall, near the edge of the pillar, climb up an excellent crack to a stance.
4 6a 25m. Go right for some metres up a slab cut by superficial cracks, then climb left and up a set of flakes.
5. 5c+ 20m. Climb directly up flakes
6. 4c 35m. Continue up directly then move leftwards and climb via another set of flakes to a stance.
7. 5c 20m. Climb a slab up to a grassy ledge.
Descent: Abseil or use the Plattenturm-SE Ridge gully by going leftwards along a ledge to reach the top of the gully.

Bernhard Falett and G. Lisignoli Jul/1990

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Alessandro Tentori 3 Aug AltLd O/S
with matteo zorzoli
with matteo zorzoli
Tom Blake 8 Jul AltLd
andrzej kierzek 20 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Climbed first three pitches. Fell off 6a pitch and aided to the stance using cams and bolts. Started pitch 5, but could not climb the slab. We abseiled from the top of pitch 4.
Climbed first three pitches. Fell off 6a pitch and aided to the stance using cams and bolts. Started pitch 5, but could not climb the slab. We abseiled from the top of pitch 4.
Amyjane 16 Jul, 2017 2nd Came off on the 6a+ and the 5c+. Struggling with dodgy knee and dodgy toe, but an AWESOME route.
Came off on the 6a+ and the 5c+. Struggling with dodgy knee and dodgy toe, but an AWESOME route.
Tom.Priestley 16 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Led all pitches, awesome laybacks. Bolted belays are basically hanging tho.
with Amyjane
Led all pitches, awesome laybacks. Bolted belays are basically hanging tho.
with Amyjane
innes ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ruth
with Ruth
pete johnson ?Aug, 2008 -
with pauldrew, Lun
with pauldrew, Lun
pauldrew ?Aug, 2008 Lead
pauldrew 29 Jul, 2008 AltLd Ran together in 4 pitches.
Ran together in 4 pitches.
Hidden ??, 2006 AltLd
uphillnow ?Jul, 2002 AltLd
with Mark Gray
with Mark Gray
Andy Say 10 Jul, 1994 Lead
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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set