This great climb features slabs, cracks and dièdres. Medium protection so take nuts and friends.
Access: Starting from the cable car terminus cross the road going up to the dam and go to the hairpin bend under the cliff where there is a red mark and an arrow (5 minutes)
Description: (Treat, as usual, with caution.)
1. V+ 40m. Climb a crack to the left of a long dièdre and then cross over to the right underneath an overhang. Go over this and head leftwards to a slab then go direct to find a belay ledge to the left of an overhang.
2. V+ 15m. Climb up flakes for a few metres and pass over the overhang on the left and get into a sloping dièdre. There is a stance a little way right on a slab.
3. V 30m. Climb the slab curving slightly to the right and then left below a steep wall to a large chimney.
4. V 20m. Climb leftwards to and by flakes to a large plant (!).
5. V+ 25m. Climb rightwards to the bottom of a wide crack. Climb this to a spike below an overhang.
6. VI+ 30m. Go left under the overhang (VI+), climb up using flakes towards a niche and find a small ledge out on your right.
7. VI 35m. Climb a slab direct with blind cracks going up to a block which you pass by on the left. Take a crack under a large overhang that goes left. Now climb another short crack (VI) that leads to a comfortable stance below another overhang.
8. V 40m. Go left of the overhang using flakes then climb a dièdre to flakes and so up to the pillar’s top.
Descent: Abseil (down the chimney to the left (south) of the climb or continue up the north east ridge.

Franco Giacomelli and Renata Rossi. (Modified line Berhard Falett, 1996) 01/Aug/1987

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Paul Sagar 12 Jul AltLd O/S Great climb. Led the even pitches, very good rock and moves but definitely a bag of sand at 6a (gets 6a+ in the Plaisir Sud book and that is fair). Climbed the whole thing clean,but we took the cable car from the bottom of the valley, and cable cars are definitely aid climbing, so I guess this is not a true onsight. Efiks innit. Anyway, we simulclimbed the end of the North East ridge and were about to start Dente but then some rain appeared which rapidly became a storm, so we bailed. Obviously, by the time we were down it was blazing hot with clear blue skies. Stupid mountain weather.
Great climb. Led the even pitches, very good rock and moves but definitely a bag of sand at 6a (gets 6a+ in the Plaisir Sud book and that is fair). Climbed the whole thing clean,but we took the cable car from the bottom of the valley, and cable cars are definitely aid climbing, so I guess this is not a true onsight. Efiks innit. Anyway, we simulclimbed the end of the North East ridge and were about to start Dente but then some rain appeared which rapidly became a storm, so we bailed. Obviously, by the time we were down it was blazing hot with clear blue skies. Stupid mountain weather.
Tom Blake 8 Jul AltLd
khalidq 7 Jul AltLd O/S
with Tom Blake
with Tom Blake
mattgrange ?Jul AltLd Excellent route, some really cool moves and varied challenges, slipped off the crux layback on second but otherwise clean. Finished up NE ridge but then got rained off as we were starting up the Dente.
with Paul Sagar
Excellent route, some really cool moves and varied challenges, slipped off the crux layback on second but otherwise clean. Finished up NE ridge but then got rained off as we were starting up the Dente.
with Paul Sagar
hfotheri 29 Jun AltLd O/S
with sge
with sge
subdir 23 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Nice climb with some great quality pitches, spaced in situ gear but well protected throughout, with exception of a couple of sweaty slabby sections... exhilarating climbing on the jamming crack in p5, as well as traverse and small overhang in p6. Great alternative to busy Mosaico next door if slightly harder
with Tom
Nice climb with some great quality pitches, spaced in situ gear but well protected throughout, with exception of a couple of sweaty slabby sections... exhilarating climbing on the jamming crack in p5, as well as traverse and small overhang in p6. Great alternative to busy Mosaico next door if slightly harder
with Tom
Hidden 14 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf
gjd 14 Jul, 2017 AltLd Only had time for first 4 pitches
with Brian H
Only had time for first 4 pitches
with Brian H
mchardski 26 Aug, 2016 2nd I lead 2 of the pitches badly but Jon lead the rest and i was knackered from Cassin and didnt have my head.
with Jon Brain
I lead 2 of the pitches badly but Jon lead the rest and i was knackered from Cassin and didnt have my head.
with Jon Brain
robgixer 1 Sep, 2015 Lead
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 Lead
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2015 Lead
with Alison Culshaw
with Alison Culshaw
Hidden 19 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Sankey 19 Jul, 2014 AltLd Lead 1st pitch, crack before first 6a pitch and the final delicate 6a pitch
with Jeff and Jon
Lead 1st pitch, crack before first 6a pitch and the final delicate 6a pitch
with Jeff and Jon
Kirill 18 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S first 2 pitches only
first 2 pitches only
CurlyStevo ?Aug, 2013 AltLd first two pitches only as we had already done one route
with Kirill
first two pitches only as we had already done one route
with Kirill
brockers 28 Aug, 2011 Lead Fantastic route. Route of the trip for me!
Fantastic route. Route of the trip for me!
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 2nd
Hidden 19 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 10 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Phil Emerson ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 10 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 17 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Quality.
Quality.
zach.stone 17 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Maarten2 25 Aug, 2008 AltLd Continued the East Risge (Nigg Variant), but no enough time to do the Dente or Fiamme. Ineke led anything with F6 in it. Somehow I failed on the fifth pitch, but redeemed myself doing the Variante Nigg F5c pitch. Altoghether a great day out.
with Ineke D
Continued the East Risge (Nigg Variant), but no enough time to do the Dente or Fiamme. Ineke led anything with F6 in it. Somehow I failed on the fifth pitch, but redeemed myself doing the Variante Nigg F5c pitch. Altoghether a great day out.
with Ineke D
Mark Walter ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
with Ed Hill
with Ed Hill
Hidden ??, 2008 -
lx 10 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S led pitches, 2,3,6,8. (strung pitches together). Mix of bolts and trad with bolt belays
with andy barker
led pitches, 2,3,6,8. (strung pitches together). Mix of bolts and trad with bolt belays
with andy barker
Hidden ??, 2006 AltLd
uphillnow 9 Jul, 2002 AltLd
Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set