100m, 3 pitches. Climb the first 2 pitches of Paradise Regained followed by a more logical finish up the final pitch of U-Ei.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tom Seccombe 11 Aug Lead O/S
with Trevor Oats
with Trevor Oats
scoth 23 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 23 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Misha 27 May, 2014 AltLd O/S My original log when I thought we had done a partial new route: Spent ages on the rock platform trying and failing to figure out where U-Ei or any of the other routes went. Eventually started up this thinking it was U-Ei, which actually started about 15m left - just right of the big seepage line as suggested in the guide book, we had considered going that way but couldn't make out the line and it looked a bit improbable at E2. Later saw U-Ei's line of chalked holds from higher up. Instead ended up doing the first ascent of this route, at least for the last two pitches as the first pitch already had some chalk on. Chris did P1 and P3, I did P2. A good route which might merit three starts in most other places! P1 went up a crack, after that we just made it up, following the most logical and interesting looking line. Leading P2 was exciting as I wasn't sure how hard it would be or how much gear there would be. Going through the overhang on undercuts turned out to be harder than it looked to start with but a blind grope around eventually located the inevitable juggy flake that was necessary to get established and after that it was go, go, go till the rest! The groove above was still tricky (5a/b) but had a few rests. The uncertainty of the unknown was the best bit really, should do more first ascents! Chris then did a sterling job on the evil looking twin cracks, which were pretty tough (thankfully it was possible to bridge out) and sported the hardest moves at the top! The corner/chimney above also proved harder than it looked from the bottom, a bit of 5b there. An unexpected adventure and a great experience. What an awesome place and a very exciting but very safe abseil, free hanging from the start. Neil from Northumbrian MC had rigged it over an overhanging boulder, so you had to teeter out along a tapering ledge holding onto undercuts to grab the rope, which was hanging free, get onto it as tight as possible and swing out into space. Best abseil I've ever done! Chris moved it a bit to get a more convenient start but still free hanging all the way. EDIT: having seen the new SMC guide book, think we did P1 Make Mine a Treble, P2 Paradise Regained and P3 U-Ei.
with Chris H
My original log when I thought we had done a partial new route: Spent ages on the rock platform trying and failing to figure out where U-Ei or any of the other routes went. Eventually started up this thinking it was U-Ei, which actually started about 15m left - just right of the big seepage line as suggested in the guide book, we had considered going that way but couldn't make out the line and it looked a bit improbable at E2. Later saw U-Ei's line of chalked holds from higher up. Instead ended up doing the first ascent of this route, at least for the last two pitches as the first pitch already had some chalk on. Chris did P1 and P3, I did P2. A good route which might merit three starts in most other places! P1 went up a crack, after that we just made it up, following the most logical and interesting looking line. Leading P2 was exciting as I wasn't sure how hard it would be or how much gear there would be. Going through the overhang on undercuts turned out to be harder than it looked to start with but a blind grope around eventually located the inevitable juggy flake that was necessary to get established and after that it was go, go, go till the rest! The groove above was still tricky (5a/b) but had a few rests. The uncertainty of the unknown was the best bit really, should do more first ascents! Chris then did a sterling job on the evil looking twin cracks, which were pretty tough (thankfully it was possible to bridge out) and sported the hardest moves at the top! The corner/chimney above also proved harder than it looked from the bottom, a bit of 5b there. An unexpected adventure and a great experience. What an awesome place and a very exciting but very safe abseil, free hanging from the start. Neil from Northumbrian MC had rigged it over an overhanging boulder, so you had to teeter out along a tapering ledge holding onto undercuts to grab the rope, which was hanging free, get onto it as tight as possible and swing out into space. Best abseil I've ever done! Chris moved it a bit to get a more convenient start but still free hanging all the way. EDIT: having seen the new SMC guide book, think we did P1 Make Mine a Treble, P2 Paradise Regained and P3 U-Ei.
with Chris H
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