On the Little Eiger
Description
Headline starts on the left side of the crag just right of Bonehead and Conehead and cuts up and left for about 80 feet to the anchor atop Conehead. There is a bolt down low that protects a tricky move getting off the ground (10a). Once you enter the crack it never exceeds 5.9 and the gear is very solid.
The crack stays thin with good finger locks the entire way except near the top where it is easiest to lieback. It is possible to clip a bolt on Conehead where the crack widens. This is a nice way to add a little variety to the regular bolt clipping that goes on at Little Eiger.
Protection
Now fully bolted with 6 bolts. To lead on gear, bring small cams and wires, nothing bigger than a #0.75 Camalot. Now has its own 2 bolt anchor with links/chains (formerly 2 hook anchor).
Description
Headline starts on the left side of the crag just right of Bonehead and Conehead and cuts up and left for about 80 feet to the anchor atop Conehead. There is a bolt down low that protects a tricky move getting off the ground (10a). Once you enter the crack it never exceeds 5.9 and the gear is very solid.
The crack stays thin with good finger locks the entire way except near the top where it is easiest to lieback. It is possible to clip a bolt on Conehead where the crack widens. This is a nice way to add a little variety to the regular bolt clipping that goes on at Little Eiger.
Protection
Now fully bolted with 6 bolts. To lead on gear, bring small cams and wires, nothing bigger than a #0.75 Camalot. Now has its own 2 bolt anchor with links/chains (formerly 2 hook anchor).
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Route of Interest
MacCavity
Grade: 5.10a ***
(Clear Creek Canyon)