UKC

Restricted Access

November 2017 update

Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.

The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site. 

2020 update

Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.

13m. Direct start into It's a Black World. Power moves on undercuts lead to a slim groove giving access to dark world black World at it's crux.

Simon Rawlinson 31/Jul/2018.

Feedback

User Date Notes
caradogr 13 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A couple of key undercuts have now broken on this line. Taking this direct is now far more difficult. It is still climbable by using a small crimp just up and left of big flat undercut, pulling into undercut with right hand, building feet then firing left hand to a hold on the prow. Probably hard 7b+ now
Show beta
βeta: A couple of key undercuts have now broken on this line. Taking this direct is now far more difficult. It is still climbable by using a small crimp just up and left of big flat undercut, pulling into undercut with right hand, building feet then firing left hand to a hold on the prow. Probably hard 7b+ now

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Taff's Well West

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Trailblazer

Grade: 7b ***
(Taff's Well West)

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