3 pitches. International classic, notable for incredible positions on the final pitch.

High Exposure. The climbing itself is flawless, but when one considers that the FA was done by pioneers Hans Kraus and Fritz Wiessner in 1941, it's even more incredible! The name, of course, is completely appropriate for this must-do Gunks mega-classic.

The High E buttress is an obvious right-facing arete that is visible from the drive in from New Paltz. It is located about halfway along the base of the Trapps, right of the MF area and left of Bonnie's Roof. The High E access trail is about a 17-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 13-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

P1: Begin the climb in a chimney/stemming corner left of the arete. Climb up this corner, only until it is possible to traverse up and right across the face, then climb up the face to a fantastic, spacious triangular belay ledge (this is the GT ledge) right on the arete below a large roof. Belay from natural gear or sling the huge boulder on the ledge. 5.4, 180'.

This pitch was originally split into two by belaying in the corner before heading out onto the face, but it can be easily combined into one with careful rope management.

P2: This is the money pitch, and is just about as exciting as 5.6... or 5.7 or 5.8 for that matter... can be. Climb up from the ledge (it's easiest to begin at the left side) and traverse right to the obvious place to turn the corner and make "The Move" to pull the roof - the exposure is immediate and the rock is steep! Continue up the face past gear, jugs, and fixed pins, trending left back towards the arete, until you top out. Exhilarating! 5.6, 100'.

Communication between the clifftop and the GT is notoriously difficult here, so plan accordingly.

Descend climber's right from three bolted rap stations with one rope.

5.6+

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
achinasoul 9 Nov, 2018 2nd β
cocomosey 31 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S In 3 pitches. I took 1 and 3, Aare took 2. Amazing climbing. Pulling round the corner on the last pitch is insane. Really hard to judge the grade as it's so unlike the climbing I've done previously, but I think it's pretty fair for hard severe, assuming you can handle the exposure, and the gear is plentiful. It's overhanging but I still found some fairly comfortable spots to place gear. Following the chalked up holds to the top means you don't have to hang around working out the moves.
with aare
In 3 pitches. I took 1 and 3, Aare took 2. Amazing climbing. Pulling round the corner on the last pitch is insane. Really hard to judge the grade as it's so unlike the climbing I've done previously, but I think it's pretty fair for hard severe, assuming you can handle the exposure, and the gear is plentiful. It's overhanging but I still found some fairly comfortable spots to place gear. Following the chalked up holds to the top means you don't have to hang around working out the moves.
with aare
aare 31 Oct, 2018 AltLd
conorjclarke 21 Oct, 2018 2nd rpt
with Sarah Michaels
with Sarah Michaels
dauwhe 13 Oct, 2018 2nd Very wet first pitch after a morning of rain, but glorious climbing on the final pitch. Wow!
Very wet first pitch after a morning of rain, but glorious climbing on the final pitch. Wow!
duncana 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd First route in the Gunks - got up early to beat the queues. Led P1 (damp in places). Swing round P2 was ace and just kept on going up headwall.
with Pippa Archer
First route in the Gunks - got up early to beat the queues. Led P1 (damp in places). Swing round P2 was ace and just kept on going up headwall.
with Pippa Archer
beagly77 ??, 2018 -
adamsriches 17 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with James K
with James K
Macleod 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
conorjclarke 3 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
with Wojciech Kopczuk
with Wojciech Kopczuk
Hidden 24 Aug, 2016 AltLd
daveclarke5 23 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with Stephen
with Stephen
Bruise Apprentice 10 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Led both pitches. Very easy and lovely climbing. Need to be careful conserving gear and managing ropework on P1 as it is quite a long pitch.
with Zoë
Led both pitches. Very easy and lovely climbing. Need to be careful conserving gear and managing ropework on P1 as it is quite a long pitch.
with Zoë
cookie-doo 7 May, 2016 2nd
with BDC
with BDC
Hidden 7 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Sep, 2015 2nd
andrea83 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Amazing climb! Really fab, so exciting pulling round roof and then going up steep face on P2. Scary but the holds are just great all the way.
Lead P2. Amazing climb! Really fab, so exciting pulling round roof and then going up steep face on P2. Scary but the holds are just great all the way.
Hamish777 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Wow!! P1 is massive, take all the quickdraws and gear you can carry. I ran out of kit fairly quickly which lead to some long run out sections. The moves are all ok but having your gear so far below you at those heights does play mind games with you. P2 is something else, my hands are still sweating as I write this whilst I remember the exposure, pump and mindless terror. Well done Andrea for leading this. Difficult to grade but HVS?
Wow!! P1 is massive, take all the quickdraws and gear you can carry. I ran out of kit fairly quickly which lead to some long run out sections. The moves are all ok but having your gear so far below you at those heights does play mind games with you. P2 is something else, my hands are still sweating as I write this whilst I remember the exposure, pump and mindless terror. Well done Andrea for leading this. Difficult to grade but HVS?
conorjclarke 4 Jun, 2015 AltLd rpt
with Chris Desir
with Chris Desir
gav 11 May, 2015 AltLd O/S WOW. Amazing climb! Dave lead the first pitch, but didn't step right to the arete from the corner and instead followed it to the GT ledge. A short traverse rectified this and then I lead P2. Took a couple of looks before committing to the pull round the roof; it's all there, you just have to get to it!
with dknibb
WOW. Amazing climb! Dave lead the first pitch, but didn't step right to the arete from the corner and instead followed it to the GT ledge. A short traverse rectified this and then I lead P2. Took a couple of looks before committing to the pull round the roof; it's all there, you just have to get to it!
with dknibb
dknibb 11 May, 2015 AltLd Stayed too far left on pitch one and climbed the corner instead of the face. Pitch two... just don't have the words. Amazing.
with gav
Stayed too far left on pitch one and climbed the corner instead of the face. Pitch two... just don't have the words. Amazing.
with gav
Crater14 ??, 2015 Lead
chrisclimber 9 Nov, 2014 AltLd rpt
with kieran
with kieran
perrys 19 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
with Brian Phillips
with Brian Phillips
chrisclimber 28 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 18 Oct, 2013 AltLd Led second pitch, probably one of the best VS pitches I have done:-)
with David Horgan
Led second pitch, probably one of the best VS pitches I have done:-)
with David Horgan
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 2nd
Hidden 22 Jul, 2013 Lead β
Sgt. Vest 21 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
with bruno Damico
with bruno Damico
conorjclarke 15 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
with Sam Bjork
with Sam Bjork
mksmith35 12 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
with Luke Brigham
with Luke Brigham
codenamel 29 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Did lead on second pitch. Found it to be a great climb, really had to man up to pull onto the roof. Great time, great climb, great friends, great views, great day! :D
Did lead on second pitch. Found it to be a great climb, really had to man up to pull onto the roof. Great time, great climb, great friends, great views, great day! :D
Hidden 10 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
seanlikeskites 22 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2010 AltLd
pawelx 27 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S Superb climb, used blue&gold camalots to protect the crux
Superb climb, used blue&gold camalots to protect the crux
janegallwey ??, 2009 Lead
Hidden 18 Jul, 2008 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
dave o 15 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with JuliaH
with JuliaH
Hidden 15 Oct, 2007 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
alan moore ??, 2005 - While the first two pitches are fairly ordinary the final one is phenomenally steep and exposed for the grade. 15ft from the top, most people seems to just pummel on up an obvious crack, but it was possible to balance leftward to the finishing arête, saving the arms and taking in even more exposed positions....
While the first two pitches are fairly ordinary the final one is phenomenally steep and exposed for the grade. 15ft from the top, most people seems to just pummel on up an obvious crack, but it was possible to balance leftward to the finishing arête, saving the arms and taking in even more exposed positions....
Morgan Woods ?Jul, 2004 AltLd Bloody scarey after not climbing for a while!
with Bob from Jersey
Bloody scarey after not climbing for a while!
with Bob from Jersey
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 AltLd
mark turnbull ?Oct, 2001 -
Richard Weller 28 May, 2000 Lead
with John Beckley
with John Beckley
DC ??, 2000 Lead O/S
lost.arrow 8 Aug, 1995 -
with Iain Kerr
with Iain Kerr
keefe 14 May, 1992 -
Martin Bennett 1 Nov, 1989 -
with Tim
with Tim
Hammy 31 May, 1989 Lead
with Colin Struthers
with Colin Struthers
Eduardo Martinez ?Aug, 1984 Solo O/S My finest and only onsight solo. I had memorized the guidebook description and there was an element of doubt that I was on the correct route as I set off. I was 23 years old at the time and I still remember the terror as I pulled round onto the final headwall, then the adrenaline and finally the relief when I topped out.
My finest and only onsight solo. I had memorized the guidebook description and there was an element of doubt that I was on the correct route as I set off. I was 23 years old at the time and I still remember the terror as I pulled round onto the final headwall, then the adrenaline and finally the relief when I topped out.
Hidden ?Aug, 1975 -
andy gittins ??, 1972 -
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Voting
High 5.7
Mid 5.7
Low 5.7
High 5.6
Mid 5.6
Low 5.6
High 5.5
Mid 5.5
Low 5.5
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set