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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
abd69 3 Sep AltLd descent to Lagginjoch
with Machine Mike Mason
descent to Lagginjoch
with Machine Mike Mason
deandarvill 26 Aug Lead Great route. We were very slow and got our rope stuck on the last abseil, had to cut it.
with Ian Wilson
Great route. We were very slow and got our rope stuck on the last abseil, had to cut it.
with Ian Wilson
Hidden 15 Aug 2nd
shah 11 Aug Solo
Captain Solo 10 Aug AltLd dnf Bailed not long after the joch as the rain came in sooner than expected.
with Pero
Bailed not long after the joch as the rain came in sooner than expected.
with Pero
Tom Livingstone 3 Aug AltLd
with Will Lewallen, Luke Maddock-Lyon
with Will Lewallen, Luke Maddock-Lyon
willflewallen 3 Aug Solo O/S solod most of this but used ropes for certain sections. Good but windy morning out in the hills.
with luke, Tom Livingstone
solod most of this but used ropes for certain sections. Good but windy morning out in the hills.
with luke, Tom Livingstone
Hidden 3 Aug AltLd O/S
Bobby Pearson 31 Jul AltLd O/S Awesome alpine route attempted in alpine style (light and fast) lift to lift. Took the first lift from Saas Grund to Hohsaas (3101m). Set off at 0800. Arrived at the Laginnjoch at around 0900. Soloed the ridge to just below pt3906 then roped up and moved together. Stopped for 30mins half way along the summit ridge. Made it to the summit by 1345. We ran down the normal route in 1h45 (guide book time 3hrs) and made it back at 1545, 30mins to spare before the last lift.
with Augmantas Sibas
Awesome alpine route attempted in alpine style (light and fast) lift to lift. Took the first lift from Saas Grund to Hohsaas (3101m). Set off at 0800. Arrived at the Laginnjoch at around 0900. Soloed the ridge to just below pt3906 then roped up and moved together. Stopped for 30mins half way along the summit ridge. Made it to the summit by 1345. We ran down the normal route in 1h45 (guide book time 3hrs) and made it back at 1545, 30mins to spare before the last lift.
with Augmantas Sibas
Tom Livingstone 31 Jul Solo
with Calum Kenny, Alex Metcalfe
with Calum Kenny, Alex Metcalfe
Hidden 30 Jul Solo O/S
Hidden 30 Jul AltLd
CRead 30 Jul Solo O/S Surprisingly good rock. Roped up for a few icy sections
with Holly, Katie Bowen
Surprisingly good rock. Roped up for a few icy sections
with Holly, Katie Bowen
Lumbering Oaf 30 Jul AltLd O/S Acclimatisation climb: A great route, quite long, and with a few difficulties higher up. Bivvied above the Hosaas (sp?) gondola house and adjacent the rognon. Left our bivvy at 0400, made it to the Lagginjock by 0500 and moved together up most of the ridge, summiting by 1130. Top third of route contains the more difficult sections. Carried our bivvy gear with us, so had heavy packs. Huffed and puffed up the harder scrambling/climbing bits. Descended the normal route (choss) and made it back to the gondola building by 1445. All in all a 10.75 hr day. Did it in dry, lean conditions with little snow or ice.
with Alex Shipp
Acclimatisation climb: A great route, quite long, and with a few difficulties higher up. Bivvied above the Hosaas (sp?) gondola house and adjacent the rognon. Left our bivvy at 0400, made it to the Lagginjock by 0500 and moved together up most of the ridge, summiting by 1130. Top third of route contains the more difficult sections. Carried our bivvy gear with us, so had heavy packs. Huffed and puffed up the harder scrambling/climbing bits. Descended the normal route (choss) and made it back to the gondola building by 1445. All in all a 10.75 hr day. Did it in dry, lean conditions with little snow or ice.
with Alex Shipp
kbow265 29 Jul -
Aled Williams 29 Jul - Essentially had an epic, 20 hours bin to bin. route was covered in fresh snow, verglass and rime ice which was hard going. What made it worse was that as the sun melted the ice of the lower pitches, later starting parties were able to catch up causing pretty congested bottlenecks. Also followed a guide and ended up off route at one point ? brilliant route though !!
Essentially had an epic, 20 hours bin to bin. route was covered in fresh snow, verglass and rime ice which was hard going. What made it worse was that as the sun melted the ice of the lower pitches, later starting parties were able to catch up causing pretty congested bottlenecks. Also followed a guide and ended up off route at one point ? brilliant route though !!
Hidden 25 Jul Lead
maumau 22 Jul Lead
Francis Hardy 11 Jul AltLd O/S Mind blowing - excellent climbing with mega exposure. Climbed the whole thing Alpine style in 5 hours hut to summit. The Moran guide suggests there's little above II+ on the ascent but the camp to camp description of considerable amounts of III with one step of IV seemed more accurate. A guide we met on the dri horlini a week later commented that the route 'is easy to underestimate' which couldn't be more accurate aha the ridge is very long and features a lot of downclimbing. Abseiled a lot earlier than the guide book suggested and then down climbed when we came to the 'breach' which is exposed but easy ladder like climbing. All in all a fantastic route that seems a little stiff for the grade.
with Emily Boorman, Alex Smith
Mind blowing - excellent climbing with mega exposure. Climbed the whole thing Alpine style in 5 hours hut to summit. The Moran guide suggests there's little above II+ on the ascent but the camp to camp description of considerable amounts of III with one step of IV seemed more accurate. A guide we met on the dri horlini a week later commented that the route 'is easy to underestimate' which couldn't be more accurate aha the ridge is very long and features a lot of downclimbing. Abseiled a lot earlier than the guide book suggested and then down climbed when we came to the 'breach' which is exposed but easy ladder like climbing. All in all a fantastic route that seems a little stiff for the grade.
with Emily Boorman, Alex Smith
robgixer 17 Mar AltLd
with Big Lee
with Big Lee
Big Lee 17 Mar AltLd O/S Acclimatisation climb. 10:15 hours from the Hohsaas hut to the summit and 13:45 hours for the round trip. We descended the normal way, although needed to do a slight variation due to windslab concerns. Full winter conditions, with little usable snow, particularly on the east side of the ridge. The weather was progressively closing in along the ridge, with some strong winds that made sections of the climb feel very exposed. We didn't make an effort to remember the guidebook description and probably didn't take the easiest line, deviating onto the left side about three times, which was fairly loose in places. We mistakenly ab'ed about 50m in to the gully from the last proper gendarme but managed to regain the ridge a short way further along. Probably much harder than summer conditions. More like Alpine D/D+? I thought the route was excellent in these sort of conditions though, just much slower!
Acclimatisation climb. 10:15 hours from the Hohsaas hut to the summit and 13:45 hours for the round trip. We descended the normal way, although needed to do a slight variation due to windslab concerns. Full winter conditions, with little usable snow, particularly on the east side of the ridge. The weather was progressively closing in along the ridge, with some strong winds that made sections of the climb feel very exposed. We didn't make an effort to remember the guidebook description and probably didn't take the easiest line, deviating onto the left side about three times, which was fairly loose in places. We mistakenly ab'ed about 50m in to the gully from the last proper gendarme but managed to regain the ridge a short way further along. Probably much harder than summer conditions. More like Alpine D/D+? I thought the route was excellent in these sort of conditions though, just much slower!
l-1808-ml ?? -
Stuart Johnston 9 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S We stayed in the Weismeiss Hut. This adds about an hour to the approach, but you get the benefit of sleeping lower and the guardian's excellent knowledge of the mountain. Breakfast 3.45. Left 4.25. Essentially you follow the 4x4 track to the Hohsass restautant / lift and then take a left turn up screes and boulders that lead to the Hohlaub Glacier and then the Lagginjoch. However, in the dark we couldn't find the trail and the terrain ahead looked very steep, so we opted to take the other route from the Hohsass lift. This takes a well marked trail directly above the lift to about 3200m. After that point we (incorrectly) continued directly on the ridge. the walking soon turned to scrambling and we felt we were off route, so we returned to 3200m. We then thought we would take the marked ski tour line - but this proved to end in cliffs too. In the end we headed back down the 4x4 track, below the hohsass lift and headed up to the Hohlaub Glacier and then the Lagginjoch direct from the last big bend in the 4x4 track before (and just below) the hohsass lift. I would have thought this is always the best option in the dark as absolutely no route finding issues. The glacier had a few crevasses on lookers right, so a rope might be prudent if coming from that direction (i.e. if you took the right path from point 3200) but no rope was necessary on the direct route up the Hohlaub Glacier. Access across the rimaye and on to the ridge were very straight forward. Once on the ridge you can scramble unroped to 3700m (if you are comfortable with that - serious fall potential, but no technical climbing). At 3700 the route significantly steepens and a rope is prudent. Camp to Camp describes 2 variants, left and right, around the steeping. We opted to go right (a less competent party went left and had no issues). The described move of IV is awkward, but trivial. It involves climbing approx 1.5m overhanding offwidth onto a relatively featureless slab. It is however easily climbed with a right foot high on a little feature and the left shoulder wedged in the offwidth. Using that technique it felt more like III. This is the crux of the route. At about 3900m there are 2 abseils. The first, of about 5m takes you to the left of the ridge (tatt to abseil from, no anchor where you arrive). You then traverse about 20m on the ridge crest to another abseil which takes you to a notch (again tatt to abseil from). After this you continue on the ridge to a final tower from which you make another rappel. 2 good bolts on the right of the tower top. Don't abseil to the right, but do straight down the pow and then make an awkward abseil travers of about 2m to reach the notch on the ridge. Do not go down into the gully. After this it is a straight forward scramble to the top. Descent is by the normal route. Take care on the top 75m of snow - there have been accidents there. below that it is easy scrambling with no rope needed. Do not take the first gully that you find leading down left (steep and loose) but stay on the ridge crest by gaining a few meters) (over point 3539? - I'm unsure of this though as wasn't paying attention to heights at this point). We missed the trail down to the Laggin Glacier and cut in after descenting too far along the ridge. If you think you might have done this and you can't see a clear way down to the glacier, you might be best to follow the ridge all the way to its end...
with Lara Kesterton
We stayed in the Weismeiss Hut. This adds about an hour to the approach, but you get the benefit of sleeping lower and the guardian's excellent knowledge of the mountain. Breakfast 3.45. Left 4.25. Essentially you follow the 4x4 track to the Hohsass restautant / lift and then take a left turn up screes and boulders that lead to the Hohlaub Glacier and then the Lagginjoch. However, in the dark we couldn't find the trail and the terrain ahead looked very steep, so we opted to take the other route from the Hohsass lift. This takes a well marked trail directly above the lift to about 3200m. After that point we (incorrectly) continued directly on the ridge. the walking soon turned to scrambling and we felt we were off route, so we returned to 3200m. We then thought we would take the marked ski tour line - but this proved to end in cliffs too. In the end we headed back down the 4x4 track, below the hohsass lift and headed up to the Hohlaub Glacier and then the Lagginjoch direct from the last big bend in the 4x4 track before (and just below) the hohsass lift. I would have thought this is always the best option in the dark as absolutely no route finding issues. The glacier had a few crevasses on lookers right, so a rope might be prudent if coming from that direction (i.e. if you took the right path from point 3200) but no rope was necessary on the direct route up the Hohlaub Glacier. Access across the rimaye and on to the ridge were very straight forward. Once on the ridge you can scramble unroped to 3700m (if you are comfortable with that - serious fall potential, but no technical climbing). At 3700 the route significantly steepens and a rope is prudent. Camp to Camp describes 2 variants, left and right, around the steeping. We opted to go right (a less competent party went left and had no issues). The described move of IV is awkward, but trivial. It involves climbing approx 1.5m overhanding offwidth onto a relatively featureless slab. It is however easily climbed with a right foot high on a little feature and the left shoulder wedged in the offwidth. Using that technique it felt more like III. This is the crux of the route. At about 3900m there are 2 abseils. The first, of about 5m takes you to the left of the ridge (tatt to abseil from, no anchor where you arrive). You then traverse about 20m on the ridge crest to another abseil which takes you to a notch (again tatt to abseil from). After this you continue on the ridge to a final tower from which you make another rappel. 2 good bolts on the right of the tower top. Don't abseil to the right, but do straight down the pow and then make an awkward abseil travers of about 2m to reach the notch on the ridge. Do not go down into the gully. After this it is a straight forward scramble to the top. Descent is by the normal route. Take care on the top 75m of snow - there have been accidents there. below that it is easy scrambling with no rope needed. Do not take the first gully that you find leading down left (steep and loose) but stay on the ridge crest by gaining a few meters) (over point 3539? - I'm unsure of this though as wasn't paying attention to heights at this point). We missed the trail down to the Laggin Glacier and cut in after descenting too far along the ridge. If you think you might have done this and you can't see a clear way down to the glacier, you might be best to follow the ridge all the way to its end...
with Lara Kesterton
aldoh 30 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf AC Saas Fee Meet. Guide Book time up to 1st abseil. Rock fall during abseil, caused rope to split while Dave rappelling. Continued on to crux, damaged rope leading us to around climb. Ultimately down climbed too far, losing 2 hours, first trying to re-find route back up to crux, then failing this, looking to abb off the face. Unable to find safe ground to see out the night and weather coming us led to final resort of calling Mountain Rescue, who got us safely off mountain.
AC Saas Fee Meet. Guide Book time up to 1st abseil. Rock fall during abseil, caused rope to split while Dave rappelling. Continued on to crux, damaged rope leading us to around climb. Ultimately down climbed too far, losing 2 hours, first trying to re-find route back up to crux, then failing this, looking to abb off the face. Unable to find safe ground to see out the night and weather coming us led to final resort of calling Mountain Rescue, who got us safely off mountain.
Hidden 25 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S
Robin Clothier 1 Aug, 2018 Solo
Colin Scotchford 26 Jul, 2018 -
Tom Fullen 20 Jul, 2018 - What a day! Exposed and sustained scrambling for the whole ridge. About 9 hours hut to hut.
with BMaybee
What a day! Exposed and sustained scrambling for the whole ridge. About 9 hours hut to hut.
with BMaybee
BMaybee 20 Jul, 2018 AltLd Incredible route, most rocks above 3900m were icy and needed crampons. Don't underestimate the length!
Incredible route, most rocks above 3900m were icy and needed crampons. Don't underestimate the length!
Gawyllie 7 Jul, 2018 -
with john meechan
with john meechan
Pero 2 Jul, 2018 Lead
featuresforfeet 27 Jun, 2018 Solo O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 2018 Solo
Everetta ??, 2018 -
with Wolfie
with Wolfie
Iggy_B 23 Aug, 2017 -
with Phil & Chris
with Phil & Chris
Hidden 17 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
Hannah V 7 Aug, 2017 -
with Sami Modenius, Linda Sun
with Sami Modenius, Linda Sun
a_m154 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd First alpine epic. Started late and forgot the guidebook. Dad has done the route before and remembered it as a short scramble... ! Summited after 7.5hours of funtimes with both of us feeling the altitude. Powered on and failed to find a route to the hohsaas hut= wandering around on loose choss at 12-2am. Enforced couple of hours spent shivering for sunrise. BUT cracking route, great climbing especially if you stick close to the ridge! Some snow to add to the fun.
with James Ormrod
First alpine epic. Started late and forgot the guidebook. Dad has done the route before and remembered it as a short scramble... ! Summited after 7.5hours of funtimes with both of us feeling the altitude. Powered on and failed to find a route to the hohsaas hut= wandering around on loose choss at 12-2am. Enforced couple of hours spent shivering for sunrise. BUT cracking route, great climbing especially if you stick close to the ridge! Some snow to add to the fun.
with James Ormrod
Pero 26 Jun, 2017 Lead Bone dry. Excellent. 5 hours from Hohsaas; 3 hours down the PD route.
Bone dry. Excellent. 5 hours from Hohsaas; 3 hours down the PD route.
bruce ??, 2017 -
_hs_ ??, 2017 -
neal 8 Sep, 2016 AltLd Excellent route. From bivi below Weissmeis hut. Descent via normal route (easy walk/scramble).
with Stuart Mcleod
Excellent route. From bivi below Weissmeis hut. Descent via normal route (easy walk/scramble).
with Stuart Mcleod
Hidden 6 Sep, 2016 AltLd
guy127917 6 Sep, 2016 - Didn't summit until 7pm, spent night halfway down normal route descent. Excellent value route.
Didn't summit until 7pm, spent night halfway down normal route descent. Excellent value route.
cacheson 1 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Longer than anticipated, has an awkward abseil between the two peaks which has obviously been the site of a few epics (abandoned ropes etc). Quality route
with Tom FP
Longer than anticipated, has an awkward abseil between the two peaks which has obviously been the site of a few epics (abandoned ropes etc). Quality route
with Tom FP
davidswannn 2 Aug, 2016 2nd
Pero 2 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Wyn Bach 19 Jul, 2016 -
with Paul Warnock
with Paul Warnock
Hidden 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd
prwalker 8 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with wupert
with wupert
Robs_Uren 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
RKirke 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
mikespooner 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Stu_1985 ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
Robertgiddy 23 Jul, 2015 -
Ewanski 8 Sep, 2014 -
with Barry Speed
with Barry Speed
Jon Ellis 6 Aug, 2014 - Descent via the West-South-West Ridge (Normal Route).
with jkellis
Descent via the West-South-West Ridge (Normal Route).
with jkellis
olekemi 5 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Finally completed it after looking at it many times. Easy climbing, but long and sustained. Fresh snow and ice added to the excitement.
with Trevor D
Finally completed it after looking at it many times. Easy climbing, but long and sustained. Fresh snow and ice added to the excitement.
with Trevor D
Hidden 4 Aug, 2014 -
Hidden 28 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue 28 Jun, 2014 - Very easy (and very enjoyable!) scrambling till the junction with the WSW spur. Then more technical as it nears the summit.
Very easy (and very enjoyable!) scrambling till the junction with the WSW spur. Then more technical as it nears the summit.
Hidden 1 Oct, 2013 AltLd
Ross Davidson 1 Oct, 2013 AltLd ridge took 9 hours due to powder snow covering rock. bradley lead the ridge like a pro. 18 hours hut to hut. not recommended in these conditions
ridge took 9 hours due to powder snow covering rock. bradley lead the ridge like a pro. 18 hours hut to hut. not recommended in these conditions
dan-8990 24 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
with WE
with WE
Hidden 9 Sep, 2013 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?Sep, 2013 2nd
Hidden 14 Aug, 2013 -
artmal 12 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Patryk
with Patryk
alastairbegley 4 Aug, 2013 Lead http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/08/weeks-valais-alps/
with David Emmett
http://www.masterplan-photography.co.uk/2013/08/weeks-valais-alps/
with David Emmett
Batt 2 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Hoyes
with Hoyes
Hoyes 2 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S A good but long climb on generally solid rock.
with Batt
A good but long climb on generally solid rock.
with Batt
uncontrollable ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S summit traverse, ascent SSW ridge, descent normal route
with Max
summit traverse, ascent SSW ridge, descent normal route
with Max
Keith Lambley 21 Jul, 2013 -
with Kate R
with Kate R
Bristoldave 15 Jul, 2013 -
with Caroline
with Caroline
Anna_wells 27 Aug, 2012 -
Tim_Gomersall 27 Aug, 2012 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 -
Poco Loco 26 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Excellent fun sustained climbing/scrambing all the way from the Lagginjoch on generally solid rock. Recommended! Missed the last cable car, so had to walk back to Saas Grund: Bugger.
with Liz, Fraser
Excellent fun sustained climbing/scrambing all the way from the Lagginjoch on generally solid rock. Recommended! Missed the last cable car, so had to walk back to Saas Grund: Bugger.
with Liz, Fraser
John HW 26 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Cath
with Cath
TimPerkin 24 Jul, 2012 Lead
with Simon Preuss
with Simon Preuss
jhw 15 Jul, 2012 Solo Soloed after partners got ill - magnificent climb. Descent requires care - I turned off left into the rocky area very low to avoid rockfall risk, but should have turned higher to meet the glacier, although here there would have been more rockfall risk
Soloed after partners got ill - magnificent climb. Descent requires care - I turned off left into the rocky area very low to avoid rockfall risk, but should have turned higher to meet the glacier, although here there would have been more rockfall risk
Simon Preuss ?Jul, 2012 -
jonesieboy ?Jul, 2012 - Our first AD together
Our first AD together
Bex_M 2 Sep, 2011 -
Hidden 29 Aug, 2011 2nd
NickBrown ?Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
with Graham Frost
with Graham Frost
James Gordon ?Jul, 2011 -
John Pickles 26 Aug, 2010 -
with Neil Mackay
with Neil Mackay
The Ivanator 28 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Ascended the ridge as far as p.3906 and then descended the South West Spur as weather was closing in and the rock was plastered in ice.
Ascended the ridge as far as p.3906 and then descended the South West Spur as weather was closing in and the rock was plastered in ice.
Hidden 8 Sep, 2009 2nd
Hidden 5 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2009 -
Hidden 11 Aug, 2009 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 -
J1PEF ?Aug, 2009 -
J1PEF ?Aug, 2009 -
Hidden 29 Jul, 2009 -
Hidden 29 Jul, 2009 2nd
Mountain Llama 11 Sep, 2008 -
with Paul, Mark, Andy & Mike
with Paul, Mark, Andy & Mike
markfairbank 11 Sep, 2008 Solo O/S Nice route, abit loose in places but generally sound. Done in 4 and a half hours from the Hohsaas after getting the first lift up - summitted about 1pm. Required 1 abseil that could have been avoided.
with Mike Shields, Paul Sheehan, Mark Ireland, Mountain Llama, Andy Platell
Nice route, abit loose in places but generally sound. Done in 4 and a half hours from the Hohsaas after getting the first lift up - summitted about 1pm. Required 1 abseil that could have been avoided.
with Mike Shields, Paul Sheehan, Mark Ireland, Mountain Llama, Andy Platell
Hidden 5 Aug, 2008 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 -
jimbobimbo ?Jul, 2008 AltLd dnf
with Mel
with Mel
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2008 -
rd20 18 Aug, 2007 AltLd
with kleinej
with kleinej
kleinej 18 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with rd20
with rd20
KeithW 25 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S with Damian too. What a route, just keeps on coming. Add soft fresh snow for shits & giggles.
with SteveM
with Damian too. What a route, just keeps on coming. Add soft fresh snow for shits & giggles.
with SteveM
Hidden 7 Jul, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 AltLd
ashpreston ??, 2007 -
Hidden 8 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
Tom Briggs 13 Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Paul Stephenson
with Paul Stephenson
Zoomer ?Jul, 2006 Lead
with 'Flash' Gordon
with 'Flash' Gordon
biggianthead 26 Jul, 2004 -
with T
with T
auld al ?Jul, 2003 2nd O/S
David Horwood 11 Jul, 2002 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1995 -
roncaves 16 Jul, 1994 AltLd
with Ian Humberstone
with Ian Humberstone
Hidden 7 Aug, 1993 Lead
Michael ?Aug, 1992 -
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Voting
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High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set