UKC

650m, 19 pitches. Approach: Park Below Mid Wall (in photo below), hike towards the obvious crack system, which is known as Dreamweaver. You will come across a drainage system, hike up drainage system to small wall below the main Mid Wall. This is the start of The Goat.

Pitch 1 (5.5): 5 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 2 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
(Pitch 1 & 2, can be linked with 60m rope)
Pitch 3: 60m 3/4 class scramble, follow flagging tape look for bolts near base of rock wall.
Pitch 4 (5.6): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 5 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
(Pitch 4 & 5, can be linked with 60m rope)
Pitch 6 (5.5): 3 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 7 (5.11a): 9 Bolts, 25m (Straight up from rap anchors) Billy Goat Gruff Variation
Pitch 7 (5.8): 9 Bolts, 25m (Farthest right belay station and bolts)
Pitch 8 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 9 (5.6): 5 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 10 (5.8): 9 Bolts, 20m
Pitch 11 (5.9): 12 Bolts, 30m
(Pitch 10 & 11, can be linked with 60m rope)
Pitch 12 (5.9): 10 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 13 (5.9): 10 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 14 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 15 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 16 (5.7): 8 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 17 (5.8): 10 Bolts, 30m
Pitch 18 (5.8): 8 Bolts, 25m
Pitch 19: 60m 3/4 class scramble, stay roped up scramble to the large pine tree. From here following the obvious trail to the left, you will see large rock that looks like a little pillar, look right for old rappel bolts used for Dreamweaver Decent into Gully. Rappel into gully and hike out.

https://gripped.com/news/the-goat-is-new-19-pitch-bolted-5-9-in-b-c-s-marble-canyon/

Danny O?Farrell.

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User Date Notes
Jessica Brown 15 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Skipped the first 3 pitches due to messing up the approach, fell on pitch 17. 12 hour round trip!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Skipped the first 3 pitches due to messing up the approach, fell on pitch 17. 12 hour round trip!

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Voting
High 5.10a
Mid 5.10a
Low 5.10a
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
April Showers

Grade: 5.9 ***
(Suicide Bluffs)

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