8 pitches. Face climb three pitches. Crack climb the next 3 pitches. Trad climbing.
Great multipitch climb that will take you half a day to climb, with fantastic scenery overlooking Squamish and beyond, and exposure +++Everyone in the free world has climbed this uber-classic and rightfully so! Diedre offers up 6 pitches of spectacular slab and dihedral climbing on the south side of the Apron. Route finding is not an issue, however, should you get lost, ask the party in front of you where to go. Bolted stations on every pitch allow retreat should the crowds overwhelm you, otherwise enjoy!

Bring some smaller pro if you have it, and a full rack of nuts.

July 1962
First ascent of Diedre, by Jim Baldwin and J. Sinclair, now probably the most climbed multi-pitch route in Canada

Ticklists

2012 Squamish select top 100, Quality Squamish moderates

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UserDateNotes
James.houghton 21 May Show βeta
βeta: Climb is 6 pitches and not 8 as UKC suggests
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βeta: Climb is 6 pitches and not 8 as UKC suggests
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 26 Aug AltLd O/S
tom russell 20 Aug AltLd O/S
with Jen Randall
with Jen Randall
NatCheeseman 5 Aug AltLd O/S Only lead pitch 2
with tobra
Only lead pitch 2
with tobra
Hidden 5 Aug Lead O/S
Jessica Brown 20 Jul AltLd O/S
with Jamie
with Jamie
Hidden 19 Jul AltLd O/S
J Glendinning 12 Jul AltLd
with Timmy Wong
with Timmy Wong
Hidden 4 Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 22 May AltLd O/S
James.houghton 20 May AltLd 2,4,6. Last pitch is somewhat lacking gear. Bring small stuff!
2,4,6. Last pitch is somewhat lacking gear. Bring small stuff!
EmmaClark9787 15 May AltLd O/S
with Georgia
with Georgia
Hidden 31 Mar 2nd
Hidden 31 Mar Lead O/S
Hidden ?? -
Hidden ?? -
Jon Tweedlie ?? -
with Chris Swift
with Chris Swift
Hidden 4 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Conor1 4 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead second and fourth pitches. Fourth pitch incredible - 35m of laybacking a thin corner - bring lots of small cams. Had the route to ourselves even on labour day by setting off at 4pm - back in the car by 8.
Lead second and fourth pitches. Fourth pitch incredible - 35m of laybacking a thin corner - bring lots of small cams. Had the route to ourselves even on labour day by setting off at 4pm - back in the car by 8.
Rockley 9 Aug, 2018 Lead
with ned_85
with ned_85
ned_85 9 Aug, 2018 2nd
with Hannah Christie, Rockley
with Hannah Christie, Rockley
fuzzysheep01 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S A little underwhelming, but decent climbing.
A little underwhelming, but decent climbing.
tcn_2002 8 Aug, 2018 AltLd
barney_edin 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with klimber
with klimber
Matt Schwarz 2 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Katie S
with Katie S
Katie S 2 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
TimCul ?Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
MatthewK 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led 1,3,4,6. Asha: 2,5.
Led 1,3,4,6. Asha: 2,5.
Asha Salway Kiggins 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led 2,5. Dad: 1,3,4,6.
Led 2,5. Dad: 1,3,4,6.
Hidden 3 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
adoran ?Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Simuled in one pitch as part of a run up the Chief. Got lucky and only ran into other parties at the belays
with Pete
Simuled in one pitch as part of a run up the Chief. Got lucky and only ran into other parties at the belays
with Pete
maria85 1 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
jasewilson ??, 2018 -
Bobs Burger ??, 2018 -
Hidden 6 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
Tom Heslam 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
rach21756 ?Aug, 2017 2nd
with Jackie S, Kirsty McGhie-Fraser
with Jackie S, Kirsty McGhie-Fraser
NickyC 25 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Zain Karim
with Zain Karim
Hidden 24 Jul, 2017 Lead
FH 24 Jul, 2017 2nd
with SP
with SP
Hidden 18 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
markalmack 16 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with Eva
with Eva
Hidden 13 Jul, 2017 2nd dnf
SenzuBean 10 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Nice :)
with Adam R
Nice :)
with Adam R
Butler! ?Jun, 2017 -
Flashy 19 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead p.1,3,4,6. Great gear on all 5.8 climbing (esp p3+4) but can be poor to very poor elsewhere. Top pitch can be wet friction slab with potential for a big-ish fall until the crux move, which has very good gear. Overall great route and straightforward climbing, but has serious aspects to it.
Lead p.1,3,4,6. Great gear on all 5.8 climbing (esp p3+4) but can be poor to very poor elsewhere. Top pitch can be wet friction slab with potential for a big-ish fall until the crux move, which has very good gear. Overall great route and straightforward climbing, but has serious aspects to it.
Gabe Oliver 18 May, 2017 Lead O/S Probably not Top 100 when there is water running down it but definitely a good footwork exercise when you have to get creative with where you can stand!
Probably not Top 100 when there is water running down it but definitely a good footwork exercise when you have to get creative with where you can stand!
Hidden 9 May, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 10 Oct, 2016 AltLd dnf
MD 13 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p1, p3, p5 and p6. Classic climb
Led p1, p3, p5 and p6. Classic climb
Happy Wanderer 12 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p2, p4. Got blinded by the sun from 1/2 way up p4 - couldn't see a darned thing. Fantastic route. Get up early to beat the crowds and not bake in the sun when it gets round the side of the Chief.
with MD
Led p2, p4. Got blinded by the sun from 1/2 way up p4 - couldn't see a darned thing. Fantastic route. Get up early to beat the crowds and not bake in the sun when it gets round the side of the Chief.
with MD
mattfarr 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Sinead
with Sinead
ThomN 20 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with munro
with munro
al99 26 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Fast
with Dave Allfrey
Fast
with Dave Allfrey
John McKenna 7 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Busy, two good pitches.
Busy, two good pitches.
Richard Abel 7 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
EBailey 6 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
joachim klungseth 6 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with EBailey
with EBailey
Hidden 6 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
DaveWhite13 ??, 2016 Lead
katrinacaley ??, 2016 -
professorcobra 26 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Phil_Hall_97 2 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P2 & P5.
with Neil Davis
Lead P2 & P5.
with Neil Davis
columk1 ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
tobydunford 23 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin
with Kirsty Kerr, Harry Martin
Hidden 17 Jul, 2015 2nd
andy mcc 14 Jul, 2015 AltLd Led P2, P3, P4, P6
with Joe Killick
Led P2, P3, P4, P6
with Joe Killick
Harry Martin ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Wil Treasure ?Jul, 2015 -
ThunderBeest ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Danny the Skott
with Danny the Skott
elCapitano 15 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Brilliant.
with Laura
Brilliant.
with Laura
adie84 ??, 2015 -
gknyus 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S busy and still awesome!
with Josslyn
busy and still awesome!
with Josslyn
dan_o_b ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
DinoGator 1 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
razzle 3 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Emily Suddes
with Emily Suddes
tomdadom 3 Jun, 2014 AltLd 1,2,4,6. Classic stuff
with Christian
1,2,4,6. Classic stuff
with Christian
Hidden 6 Apr, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 4 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
grady ?Sep, 2013 AltLd
rustaldo ?Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Matt250 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Great route. Very hungover. Followed on from the bottom line. Led 2 4 and 6. 3 and 4 are both fantastic pitches. Loads of gear on the harder pitches unless you get bored of placing your 462764719th nut and run it out a bit.
Great route. Very hungover. Followed on from the bottom line. Led 2 4 and 6. 3 and 4 are both fantastic pitches. Loads of gear on the harder pitches unless you get bored of placing your 462764719th nut and run it out a bit.
paultaylor 13 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S 2,3,4 and 6
2,3,4 and 6
Johann 9 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Zsana
with Zsana
jenslater ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
amthalmann ?Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
langar27 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with David Chan
with David Chan
samrad 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S so fun. ran up it in the evening when it was quiet. good company.
with alix, noodles
so fun. ran up it in the evening when it was quiet. good company.
with alix, noodles
Noodles 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Climbed with Alix and Sam,Sam P1, Alix P2+3, me P4, sam P5+6, some simul climbing, super fun afternoon send.
with samrad
Climbed with Alix and Sam,Sam P1, Alix P2+3, me P4, sam P5+6, some simul climbing, super fun afternoon send.
with samrad
Hidden 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Jack Loftus 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Jack Loftus 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
danimal88 9 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
whistler 1 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Brilliant! Had the route to ourselves too!
Brilliant! Had the route to ourselves too!
Hidden 17 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
haydng 6 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Cool route. Pretty easy going and well protected.
with RMG
Cool route. Pretty easy going and well protected.
with RMG
olllie26 25 May, 2013 Lead dnf Rain came in so bailed. Lead first pitch. 55M- 3 pieces of gear... up to 5.7... I thought grit was bold! Anna did send me the wrong way though!
with Anna
Rain came in so bailed. Lead first pitch. 55M- 3 pieces of gear... up to 5.7... I thought grit was bold! Anna did send me the wrong way though!
with Anna
JackMountains 20 May, 2013 AltLd rpt
Ben Snook 20 May, 2013 AltLd
treesrockice 23 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S damp so felt hard
damp so felt hard
JackMountains ?Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Mumford
with Thomas Mumford
GavinKing ??, 2013 Lead O/S
with Amanda Thalmann
with Amanda Thalmann
andy mcc 17 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 (5.7), 3 (5.8), 4 (5.8) and 6 (5.8)
with Arifa Chakera
Led pitches 1 (5.7), 3 (5.8), 4 (5.8) and 6 (5.8)
with Arifa Chakera
lxg613 ?Sep, 2012 2nd
with slim
with slim
metal arms 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Pitch 2/4/6
Pitch 2/4/6
Jacob Forshaw 9 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
MartF 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Alt leads with Stu Spencer. Andy Mathers as punter.
with Stu Spencer
Alt leads with Stu Spencer. Andy Mathers as punter.
with Stu Spencer
bgreen3761 9 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
Andy Mathers 9 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
pigeonslipper ?Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
reima 13 Jul, 2012 2nd
with Juuso M, Niamh
with Juuso M, Niamh
robertmichaellovell 5 Jul, 2012 Lead quality route
with Bex
quality route
with Bex
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 -
danie ?Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with bakes, nick baker
with bakes, nick baker
will6459 ?Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Jun, 2012 -
gforce 21 Jun, 2012 Lead
with mavtu
with mavtu
Little AndyH ?Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Noodles 27 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1, P3, P5 and P7 A really nice intro into the apron and Squamish climbing. Runout in places tho!
with Wurzel
Led P1, P3, P5 and P7 A really nice intro into the apron and Squamish climbing. Runout in places tho!
with Wurzel
Hidden 27 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
planetmarshall 25 May, 2012 2nd O/S
with Jamie Selda, Helen Mort
with Jamie Selda, Helen Mort
EddieG ?Sep, 2011 AltLd dog A little damp.
A little damp.
Hidden 31 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Luke Jones 27 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S soloed pitch 1, lead p3, 5 and 7.
with Kev Eckert
soloed pitch 1, lead p3, 5 and 7.
with Kev Eckert
arose 15 Jul, 2011 AltLd Slightly damp to start. first on route at 630am
with Ryan McDonald
Slightly damp to start. first on route at 630am
with Ryan McDonald
Rachel Slater 28 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S awesome laybacking and jamming. lead pitch 1, 3 and 5
with Olli-C
awesome laybacking and jamming. lead pitch 1, 3 and 5
with Olli-C
Olli-C 28 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Awesome route, woke up insanely early due to time zone confusion and wanting to beat the (non existant) crowds and afternoon rain, were back at the car for 9am. Amazing!!!!
Awesome route, woke up insanely early due to time zone confusion and wanting to beat the (non existant) crowds and afternoon rain, were back at the car for 9am. Amazing!!!!
Duncan Campbell 27 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Nice laybacking though a bit wet on the top out.
Nice laybacking though a bit wet on the top out.
HeatherF 26 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Very plesant
Very plesant
evilweed 2 Oct, 2010 AltLd 3 star classic all the way, great introduction to Squamish granite
with Michael Carter
3 star classic all the way, great introduction to Squamish granite
with Michael Carter
roncaves 25 Jul, 2010 AltLd
with Dan Friedmann
with Dan Friedmann
LoopyLou 18 Jul, 2010 AltLd A perfect introduction to Squamish climbing on a friendly route.
with Thea Williams
A perfect introduction to Squamish climbing on a friendly route.
with Thea Williams
Tony Holdsworth 15 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Lead all - Keltie's traverse wobble.
with keltie Moore
Lead all - Keltie's traverse wobble.
with keltie Moore
Hidden ??, 2010 -
RossG ??, 2010 -
obyrnechris 26 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Awesome Climb, did in about 2 hours. Sweet.
with Mike
Awesome Climb, did in about 2 hours. Sweet.
with Mike
RossG ?Sep, 2009 Lead
RossG123 ?Sep, 2009 -
RossG ?Sep, 2009 -
a13x ?Aug, 2009 AltLd
with Jon Moen
with Jon Moen
PTatts ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Theeni ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
dicky79 22 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Lauren
with Lauren
jominator ??, 2009 -
johno072 ??, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 29 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
dancurrie 30 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S To lead into the Ultimate Everything. Absolutely blitzed it. Moved together over a lot of it.
with Mike Coppock
To lead into the Ultimate Everything. Absolutely blitzed it. Moved together over a lot of it.
with Mike Coppock
Hidden 22 Aug, 2008 AltLd
Mihkel 22 Aug, 2008 AltLd Very wet. Had to pull on gear through the wettest sections.
with dave657
Very wet. Had to pull on gear through the wettest sections.
with dave657
sparkass 14 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Creep_pea 12 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Climbed with Rob and Joe, all three of us taking turns on lead, a bit of a fiasco on my lead of the second pitch when I dropped the belay plate, Joe and me dropped a nut a piece and Rob dropped his shoe, somehow we managed to find everything. A great climb and a very enjoyable day out.
Climbed with Rob and Joe, all three of us taking turns on lead, a bit of a fiasco on my lead of the second pitch when I dropped the belay plate, Joe and me dropped a nut a piece and Rob dropped his shoe, somehow we managed to find everything. A great climb and a very enjoyable day out.
atlantis ?Jul, 2008 - Did this climb twice, seconded due to exposure (I'd have fainted) and rope drag (would have pulled me off as I'm a lightweight), great adrenaline rush had me addicted, so did it a 2nd time (not in the same day). Take half a day. Hike off from the top carefully at first. Nice hike down though. First 3 pitches are face climbs, use your feet well, not much else. Next 3 pitches are crack. I could have lead most of the crack routes on dierdre to be honest as my partner that did my lead course with me said, it was the face that would have really tested my limits.
with Lynn Willcott
Did this climb twice, seconded due to exposure (I'd have fainted) and rope drag (would have pulled me off as I'm a lightweight), great adrenaline rush had me addicted, so did it a 2nd time (not in the same day). Take half a day. Hike off from the top carefully at first. Nice hike down though. First 3 pitches are face climbs, use your feet well, not much else. Next 3 pitches are crack. I could have lead most of the crack routes on dierdre to be honest as my partner that did my lead course with me said, it was the face that would have really tested my limits.
with Lynn Willcott
mike.moss ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
tallthinmonkey ?Jul, 2007 Lead
with Josh Plant
with Josh Plant
decs 26 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with Niina
with Niina
duncan 12 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
with tobyfk
with tobyfk
gb83 16 May, 2007 AltLd O/S Superb line, getting polished due to its popularity.I took all 3 5.8 pitches and they were superb!
with Andrew Mayo
Superb line, getting polished due to its popularity.I took all 3 5.8 pitches and they were superb!
with Andrew Mayo
Hidden 31 Aug, 2006 AltLd
Ben lad 29 Jun, 2006 AltLd
with briff
with briff
Chad123 ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
AnnaBacklund ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
reg_measures 17 Jun, 2004 AltLd rpt
with steve burdett
with steve burdett
Mike Hargreaves 15 Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S First multipitch route in North America and on the Chef. Fantastic mountain.
with Melanie Plant
First multipitch route in North America and on the Chef. Fantastic mountain.
with Melanie Plant
reg_measures ?Jun, 2004 Solo rpt
with steve burdett
with steve burdett
Smelly Fox ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
reg_measures 11 May, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Jeff
with Jeff
johno072 ??, 2004 AltLd
topsyturvy ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
chrishedgehog 2 Jul, 2002 AltLd
with Dan Bailey
with Dan Bailey
jcw ??, 2002 -
dan gibson ?Aug, 2000 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
DafSWMC 19 Jun, 1999 AltLd O/S Led 2 pitches.
with Frank
Led 2 pitches.
with Frank
stokesrees ?May, 1998 AltLd
with Ian Kirschner
with Ian Kirschner
Neil McA 15 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S Simul-climbed the first half (then pitched the last bit) as we were in a rush to get to the airport for our flight back to the UK. lovely route.
with Sue McAdie
Simul-climbed the first half (then pitched the last bit) as we were in a rush to get to the airport for our flight back to the UK. lovely route.
with Sue McAdie
craghamster ?Aug, 1993 AltLd O/S on a two-week visit to Vancouver, with local climbing partner organised via rec.climbing
on a two-week visit to Vancouver, with local climbing partner organised via rec.climbing
simonwaters5 ??, 1985 Lead O/S
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Voting
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
High 5.7
Mid 5.7
Low 5.7
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set