95m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff with three good pitches - interesting, varied and well protected. Start up the left-facing groove behind a tree and a large boulder at the right side of the face.
1) N5, 40m. Climb the slippery groove and an awkward narrow chimney to reach and pass a small roof. Continue up the fine groove and then a slab to stance by a good crack. It is best to avoid belaying on the big loose blocks over to the right.
2) N5-, 35m. Traverse 5m to the right then climb a juggy bulge and awkward groove just to the right. Continue a short way then cross the delicate slab leftwards until past the arete. Now climb good finger-cracks to belay in the prominent yellow niche of the 'Eagle's Nest'. Care needed with rope drag on this pitch.
4) N5-, 25m. From the 'Eagle's Nest', step right around a small corner - exposed and delicate for a few moves - then follow an easier crack straight to the top.
4a) N6+ 25m. The original and much harder finish goes straight through the lip of the 'Eagle's Nest' up via strenuous jamming. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 4c, 40m 2) 4c, 30m 3) 4b, 25m

FA. A. Meyer, K.O. Storvik, B Tollefsen (some aid) 1978

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

Tjable65 09/Sep/17 -
with Svein-Are Andreassen
Hidden 09/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
fuzzysheep01 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Nono
Nono 31/Jul/17 2nd
AngelaC 17/Jul/17 AltLd

Great route! P1 was a stiff for the grade I thought or at least as the warm up climb! Lots of sunshine and amazing views of Henningsvaer

EspenK 13/Jul/17 Lead O/S

With Emmi. Did the 5- finish. Lots of jams.

Gemmazrobo ?/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Ed
Rob Davies 30/Jun/17 AltLd

Sunny weather. Good introduction, low end HVS 5a 4c 4a.

with Angus McLean
harold walmsley 30/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Rick Newcombe
Hidden 17/Jun/17 AltLd
DAL 09/Jun/17 Lead
AshJames94 09/Jun/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Big Lee 08/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Excellent route.

annak 08/Sep/16 AltLd dog

Could not get out of the chimney P1. Had to french free on a cam. Please don't tell anyone.

Hidden 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Clay C 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Will A
ecromwell 22/Aug/16 AltLd

Led P1 and P3 ripped my soft hands to shreds! P1 is felt quite desperate at times! Matt couldn't hear a thing when he was in the eagles nest and I was shouting down to him. Gorgeous weather.

Bradbury 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

GH P1, Me P2, GH P3. Climbed poorly

Graeme Hammond 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Mackinclimb 19/Aug/16 AltLd
with mzchambers, Connor Holdsworth
mzchambers 19/Aug/16 -
alexm198 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

P1 & 3. Good, but not that good...

Matt Harle 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Maia
Hidden 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
MysteriousCeorl 11/Aug/16 AltLd

2, finished at 2130 on glowing orange rock under pink clouds, walked off and saw a few teams still on vestpillaren. Bloody awkward first pitch

with Ewan "Flapper"
Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/16 Lead
dan_o_b 02/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
M.Hallen 31/Jul/16 AltLd

Such a classic. Lead the first pitch, and needed to rest once in the upper part. Was relieved that the start felt easy.

with Jarl, Carolina
gauteh 28/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Astrid , Anita
Chris Craggs 28/Jun/16 AltLd

Really rather good - and the 1st pitch is quite tough

with Colin Binks
Hidden 24/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 19/Jun/16 AltLd
with Chris Calow
Alex Thomson 16/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Russell Shanks, Jenny Hill
Hidden 16/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/16 Lead dog
Peter Ballantine ?/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
tomballantine ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
J_Jansen 30/Apr/16 AltLd rpt

Fun climb. Second pitch is mostly hard scrambling/easy climbing. Same goes for the third apart from the first couple moves.

Hidden 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Natalie Berry - UKC 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, fantastic varied pitches!

James Rigby 18/Aug/15 2nd β

Great view from eagle ledge... Pitch 2 was long... A few communication problems because acoustics on last pitch... A cool, exposed boulder problem on last pitch with 2 horizontal hand jams.

with Dylan Taylor
Pippa 02/Aug/15 AltLd

Nice and fun, hard a slippy first pitch for VS, did the 6+ variation final pitch, easy after first pull

Bob Peters 29/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Messed up P3 and went up Guns n Roses by mistake.

Hidden 18/Jul/15 AltLd RP
rpinto 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
DavidEvans 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S

With Helen

DavidEvans 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S

With Helen

tomdude ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S

started climbing while damp to beat queue. first pitch felt pokey as a result!

with marie
jonnie3430 28/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
MD 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

P1 a tough corner crack to start, especially when a cam wanders in out of reach. Led p2 - a wandering route which took some fathoming out and needed almost everything on my harness. Hauled ropes to get into the eagle's nest for a rest. P3 a delicate step round to a less exciting finish of an otherwise great route.

with Mike D
Dave Rumney 12/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

tricky low down

with Tanya Milner
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
Little AndyH ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
PhilipO ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Alfred L
JuneBob 10/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Did direct finish. Nice route.

with Odd Rune
Hidden 02/Aug/14 AltLd dog
Timothy Miller 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
alan1234 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Eirik Nordli
ad111 ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
John Nuttall 08/Jun/14 Lead
with Sharon
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
duncana 02/Sep/13 AltLd

Another great route, I led pitch 1 and 3. First pitch was fairly hard all the way, but with reasonable rests between tricky bits

with Pippa Archer
Stefan_Morris 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with jenny
Jen 'Banksy' Banks ?/Aug/13 AltLd
with Stefan
Hidden 23/Jul/13 AltLd
chrisallan 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

pitch 2

cameron_hall 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3.

mes32 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch of Guns n Roses to start. Then P3.

with Aeron
Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 15/Jul/13 AltLd
Merlin 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Superb climbing. Lead P2, rope drag made me feel like I was doing power squats!

with Dave Tait
Kemics 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

After waiting out the rain in cafe. Decided to go for it VERY low cloud. Started raining on top pitch. I took lead on the middle pitch. Start of first pitch was hard and very awkward as a few key hold were still wet.

with Geordie
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
ferdia 23/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Lyndsey Mackay
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 Lead

In the wet, very good. I lead P1

with Clare Erskine
klipkabouter ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with John Vous
Timo Austino ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Bart
Steven Andrews 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

first two pitches are pantastic with amazing jams on the first pitch but the third is a bit of a let down.

with Delphine
RM199 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/12 Lead
Graceful ?/Aug/12 -
mtempest 19/Jul/12 AltLd

Led P2

Batt 19/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Odd pitches. Gollum's easier.

Dan Lane 19/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3. last pitch was a bit of a disappointment after the 1st move.

Hoyes 18/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Daniel Armitage 17/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Armitage
Hidden 16/Jul/12 AltLd
climbingpixie 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1 & p3. Great climbing on lovely rock!

with Andy
Hidden 07/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
cymjt ?/Jul/12 -
JoelO ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 27/Jun/12 AltLd
victim of mathematics 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Excellent

Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Jun/12 AltLd
Gibson27 ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

I reckon the 1st pitch is the crux pitch; bit polished but great jamming on solid rock.

Hidden 15/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Conan 10/Jul/11 AltLd

1st route of the holiday and straight into jamming on the 1st move!

with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor
Ken Taylor 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Excellent climbing but route wanders about a bit in upper sections.

with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod
Hidden 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead
cat22 01/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Anna_wells ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ali Clarke
Hidden 10/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
John Tanner 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led P2

mrstarwarsman 05/Jun/11 AltLd
Snecos ??/2011 -
Hidden 19/Aug/10 AltLd
Danhan 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Nick
tobydunford 06/Aug/10 AltLd
with Ola
Andrew1 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Hulda 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Andi
Pete Nugent 19/Jun/10 AltLd

led p 1&3 - excellent

with Chris Vernon
cem 17/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
with Dave Amos
Ztephan ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Marius
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
naine 25/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with SGD
SGD 25/Aug/09 AltLd

I lead p2

with Angelika Renner
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd
John Roe 08/Aug/09 AltLd

100m VS 4c, led pitches 1 & 3

with Rob Patchett
joeydurkin 02/Aug/09 AltLd
with Dave Gleave
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/09 AltLd
with Henry
Theeni ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
richardlong78 21/Jul/09 Lead
HIGHTOWER 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with The Barron
Andy Chubb 12/Jul/09 AltLd

Lead pitches 1 and 3. Great route. First pitch worth 5+ in my book

with Guy Hustinx
Blisco 06/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Peter Skan
Hidden 06/Jul/09 Lead
chiverstom 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 + 3

with Dave Turner
brockers ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 AltLd
AJ007 ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 25/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
tuukka 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Hanna
Henrik 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Maria
cali1001 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with jocke
Alasdair Fulton 28/May/09 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 28/May/09 AltLd O/S
eivindf ??/2009 Lead O/S
Tarquin ??/2009 -
Claire S-J ?/Aug/08 Lead
Different Steve 25/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Hidden 21/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Ing 18/Jul/08 AltLd
with Hal & Stevie G
Hidden 16/Jul/08 AltLd
9fingerjon ?/Jul/08 AltLd
oor wullie ?/Jul/08 -
with Risto kalampa
Alan James - UKC and UKH 11/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 05/Aug/07 AltLd rpt

Led pitches 2 & 3 previously did pitch 1 with Jim and Jussi in August 2002. it rained on me for my entire lead.. lovely! Still straight forward and nice climbing.

with Ali K
Hidden 01/Jul/07 Lead β
Elsier ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Stuart
mattpw ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Juha Kaupilla
Luuuuuke ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with ian, whitt
Whitt ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Luke, Ian
RAK 16/Jul/06 AltLd
with Lauri
cem 16/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Oliver Sherman ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Brad Jackson
dave o ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Julia H
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S
decs ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Steve
steev ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Chris Craggs 06/Aug/05 AltLd
with Colin Binks
alan moore ?/Jul/05 -

Very good route. VS.

Hidden 16/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Bad Mongo ?/Aug/04 AltLd
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Clare
chrishedgehog 10/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Clare Wilkie
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Jun/02 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
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High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
High n5
Mid n5
Low n5
High n5-
Mid n5-
Low n5-
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set