60m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Start at the foot of the arete under the tree-filled corner.

1) N4+, 40m. Climb onto the arete proper and follow it through a couple of bulges to a small stance below the thin upper crack.
2) N5+, 20m. Climb the finger-crack to the top - quite testing at half-height and then again just below the crest. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 4b, 40m.
2) VS 5a, 20m.

O-R Wiik, E Webster, T Enevold, L Fagerli 13/Aug/1991

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
HansStuttgart 13/Aug -
HansStuttgart 13/Aug -
Hidden 11/Aug AltLd O/S
fuzzysheep01 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Nono
Nono 08/Aug 2nd
Ilia Nadyrbayev 16/Jul AltLd
Kirill 16/Jul AltLd
with Ilia
harold walmsley 01/Jul AltLd

Led p1. Thought it seemed hard for N4+. The stance is shown very high on the diagram and both pitch grades are applied to p1!). This way the N5+ crux would be on p1. However, we split it at the ledge below the final groove of Lys og Skygge which puts all the hard crack climbing on p2. Even then p1 seemed like good N5 with a bold section on low gear just below where Lys og Skygge comes in. Probably the best combination would be Applecake arete then the final groove of Lys og Skyggen. This follows the arete line all the way and keeps the grade to bold N5. A good 2 pitch combination would then be the two N5+ pitches (bottom of Lys og Skygge, top of Applecake).

with Rick Newcombe
Hidden 24/Jun 2nd
Big Lee 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led the second half of the first pitch plus the second pitch. Top of the route was wet in places. Both pitches were excellent.

annak 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Got navigationally confused halfway up first pitch so belayed there

Hidden 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Mackinclimb 25/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
67hours 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

P1

with Willy
mzchambers 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Clay C 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ross
alexm198 21/Aug/16 2nd O/S

A rope stretching lead from Ed!

Hidden 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Trevor Wilson
ecromwell 21/Aug/16 Lead

I linked together both pitches. Some interesting climbing on the top pitch! Gets a bit thin.

Hidden 20/Aug/16 AltLd
Graeme Hammond 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Led in one big pitch

Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/16 2nd
M.Hallen 31/Jul/16 AltLd

First pitch was not that great, but the second was amazing. The abseil down was also one of the best I've ever done

saaruli 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

I climbed it in one pitch.

with Erik
Tasermiut 30/Jul/16 2nd O/S
lyneux 30/Jul/16 Lead

P1 ONLY

cem 23/Jul/16 AltLd rpt

Led p1 this time. Hot!

with Deniz Sumengen
ThunderBeest 13/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Not worth the drag

Mark Kemball 24/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2, mentally quite tired. Crux wet.

with Chris Calow
Hidden 23/Jun/16 AltLd
Alex Thomson 23/Jun/16 2nd
with Russell Shanks, Jenny Hill
J_Jansen 29/Apr/16 Lead O/S

First pitch is pretty weird and feels a bit hard for the grade. Second pitch is a superb fingercrack. Doing the first pitch of Lys og Skygge offers a more consistently good climb.

Paul Figg 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Rachel Antill
Pippa 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Belayed too low on first pitch but better, although got stomped on by the hordes

jonnie3430 03/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
tomdude ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S

top pitch felt hard, but the crack was wet so maybe that affected things...

with marie
MD 22/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2, felt hard for the grade.

with Jo
Happy Wanderer 22/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led most of p1 but set up below last bulge with dwindling gear having done something between this route and the 6 to the left all the way up. Thought Mike needed a bit more drag to do the top crack anyway. Egadz.

with Mike D
Dave Rumney 21/Jun/15 Lead

Led as 1 long pitch.

with Tanya Milner
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
duncana 30/Aug/13 AltLd

I led the first pitch, a long one, never too hard, semi-hanging belay

with Pippa Archer
chrisallan 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

just pitch 2. nice crack, bit wet.

mes32 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch.

with Chris Bull
cameron_hall 18/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
RAK 05/Jul/13 AltLd
with Lauri
Timo Austino ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Dave Bart
James Oswald ??/2013 -

Lead P2 after P1 of Lys og skygge. Superb climbing and really exposed and fun

RM199 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/12 AltLd
Batt 11/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P2 great although easy to wander onto lys og...

Hoyes 10/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Dan Lane 10/Jul/12 -

P2. great climbing and not as hard as it looks, no wussing out onto 'Lys Og...' though!

mtempest 10/Jul/12 AltLd

Led P1

cymjt ?/Jul/12 -
climbingpixie 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 25/Jun/12 AltLd
victim of mathematics 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Not as hard as I was expecting. VS 5a.

Gibson27 ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Its a climb of 2 half's. Top pitch is tricky enough but good climbing.

louby 30/Jul/11 2nd
chris_B 30/Jul/11 Lead

Last climb in Lofoten. Did in one pitch and finished up the second half of light and shade having got bored of waiting for very, very slow Norwegians.

cat22 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead
John Tanner 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led P2

mrstarwarsman 10/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
bridget143 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Hulda 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Andi
Andrew1 16/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
cem 18/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

Led p2

with Dave Amos
Pete Nugent 18/Jun/10 AltLd

Started up 1st pitch of Applecake Arete (4+), belyed at stance om Lys & Skygge and finished up the second pitch of this route (4+). This combination gives more consistent climbing. Likewise p1 of Lys & Skygge and p2 of Applecake Arete gives a more consistent 5+

with Chris Vernon
Hidden ??/2010 -
John Roe 12/Aug/09 AltLd

Led pitch 1

with Marshall Kinnear
Dr Caterpillar 10/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

led p1

John Roe 09/Aug/09 AltLd

60m VS 5a, led pich 2

with Gaz Brown
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd
joeydurkin 06/Aug/09 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/09 AltLd
with Westy
Theeni ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
brockers 28/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul/09 AltLd
Roch 27/Jul/09 AltLd
with MRT
HIGHTOWER 19/Jul/09 Lead dog
with The Barron
Hidden 10/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Blisco 07/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Peter Shone
dan gibson 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
tuukka 10/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Hanna
Henrik 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Maria
Alasdair Fulton 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

Continuous accent start in May and completed in June! ;-)

Tarquin ??/2009 -
Different Steve 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Hidden 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Ing 07/Jul/08 2nd
with Stevie G & James
Alan James - UKC and UKH 12/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/07 Lead O/S
mattpw ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Juha Kaupilla
Chris Craggs 28/Jul/06 AltLd
with Colin Binks
cem 21/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S
steev ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Helena
alan moore ?/Jul/05 -

On Honeymoon. One of the better n5's in the area.

Hidden 14/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Jody ?/May/05 AltLd O/S

Nice route.

with Erik
Erkke ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Anders, Jody
chrishedgehog 13/Jul/03 Lead O/S

I found the last move of the upper crack testing but Wilkie assured me it wasn't!

with Clare Wilkie
TobyA 13/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Heidi, Elina
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Voting
High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
High n5
Mid n5
Low n5
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set